Valve pocket/bowl hog tools....

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  1. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    Those who do your own cylinder head work, what are you using for valve bowl/pocket hog tools? What's reasonable and won't put me in the poorhouse?
     
  2. brian6pac

    brian6pac Well-Known Member

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    I have an old B&D in great shape and make my own stones out of blanks.
     
  3. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    That's sorta the direction I wanna go. I got no problem with stones. As long as they're dressed and the pilots are tight, you'll get a good job. Just right now, I haven't found anything affordable for me. Maybe somethin will come along.
     
  4. 318willrun

    318willrun Roadkill '80 D150

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    simple Dremel. It's all I've ever used.
     
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    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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      yeah well.......I just ain't "that good" with a hand held. lol
       
    • 318willrun

      318willrun Roadkill '80 D150

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      The very reason I like a Dremel. It doesn't gouge all at once like a air grinder
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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      Well, when I say "hand held" I mean electric, air, or "otherwise" powered. lol

      Now, put me on something fixed like a drill press or an IDL and I'm good to go.
       
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      • rustycowll69

        rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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        I have a Souix set, and that what I do, because I don't have a Winona or equivalent guide and seat machine.
        But I have to warn you, when you are using one of those slightly tapered stones, they tend to want to seize in the hole, kinda like ball joint stud tapers seize/ lock-up. Boom, the stone explodes. As long as you're wearing safety glasses you should be good, but the first time it happens don't be surprised. Just be patient and don't lean too hard on it.
         
      • RustyRatRod

        RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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        What I am going to use when I find some reasonable are a couple of properly sized cutters for the bowl. There are sets on ebay here and there that I am looking at.
         
      • 4spdragtop

        4spdragtop Well-Known Member

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        Brian can you explain what you mean by "make your own" ?
        I have knockoff dremel tool, but attachments are friggin pricy. I've checked walmart and limited supply there. Suggestions?
        Heres some of what I'm using

        20190331_193021.jpg
         
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        • toolmanmike

          toolmanmike FABO MODERATOR Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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          Good quality carbide burrs run about $40 each but will last a long time on cast iron if you don't overheat them and chatter them.
           
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          • rustycowll69

            rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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            I think what he means is that you buy a straight (solid)cylindrical stone of the approx diameter of the inside of your valve seat, then diamond dress it to say 75deg(7.5degrees off of each of the straight sides) until it is a cone shape with the smaller diameter end, the approx size of the bowl throat, and grind away until you're satisfied. I THINK that is what he is referring to.
             
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            • toolmanmike

              toolmanmike FABO MODERATOR Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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              Yes, Not necessarily hand porting.
               
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              • 318willrun

                318willrun Roadkill '80 D150

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                I use Dremel stones like the 8193 stone made by Dremel. I don't like air tool cutters because most of the time they gouge too fast.
                 
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                • Jimacuda

                  Jimacuda Well-Known Member

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                  HF electric die grinder with carbide burrs (mcmaster carr) and router speed control. Dont know that I have much more that $150 into it all.
                  Make a fixture to hold the head firmly in position. Slant six rocker shaft works and allows it to rotate.

                  100_3709.JPG 100_3989.JPG 100_3774a.jpg 100_4016.JPG
                   
                  Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
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                  • gzig5

                    gzig5 Well-Known Member

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                    So using the grinding stone as a form cutter to shape the bowl walls by plunge cutting? Yikes! Better be rigidly mounted.
                     
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                    • toolmanmike

                      toolmanmike FABO MODERATOR Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Yep. There's a certain amount of consistency there until the stone wears down and needs dressed.
                       
                    • toolmanmike

                      toolmanmike FABO MODERATOR Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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                      It's interesting how stable the 6" long carbides are. I thought they would chatter all over the place. I think you don't force them too much because of their length.
                       
                    • Mysons68dart

                      Mysons68dart Well-Known Member

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                      Dont like to disagree mike but i just bought 2 of the long burrs single cut for only 16 bucks each from mc master carr.
                      Dont like to disagree mike but i just got some from mcmaster good quality ones to, 1 was 16 and 1 was 20.
                       
                    • RustyRatRod

                      RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                      It is. I would do that no other way than to use the proper fixture that mounts to a pilot that fits into the valve guide. I am also looking at carbide cutters.
                       
                    • gzig5

                      gzig5 Well-Known Member

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                      Interesting. With the pilot it shouldn't be that bad then. I need to look into a fixture to hold the head on my mill table. I can make any shape form tool I want on the lathe, heat treat it, mount on an arbor and Bob's your uncle. I'd feel a lot more confident about not hosing up a nice valve job trying to do the bowl by hand if I can do it in the mill. Should be able to accomplish it with material on hand. Sounds like a good winter project to get some more flow out of the J heads.
                       
                    • brian6pac

                      brian6pac Well-Known Member

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                      Yep I have the same problem, I put a flat washer then a small spring and another washer under the stone and go at it easy, the spring really helps it from sucking down in.
                       
                    • Killer6

                      Killer6 Well-Known Member

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                      Even w/a rough stone and a pilot, the bowls aren't uniform, I have carbide pilots that are hard & accurate...but if Your not patient(VERY) the side loading can snap them. That goes for stones and multi-blade/bit cutters, but really for single cutters ie Serdi etc. If You lay out Your dimensions accurately on card sheet, and set the width/height w/markings starting from a guide center-line, You can exacto-cut a template out and insert it in the guide and work with a burr till You're really close. Have You used/seen the ones Mopar sells/sold?
                       
                    • brian6pac

                      brian6pac Well-Known Member

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                      I have a B&D seat and valve grinder, so I buy blank stones and put what ever angle or multiple angles on it to match the pocket I'm doing.

                      valve-seat-wheel-2-25-90-bdr-5190-3.gif.jpg
                       
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                      • brian6pac

                        brian6pac Well-Known Member

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