Valve Seal Removal without damage

Small Block Mopar Engine

  1. gzig5

    gzig5 Well-Known Member

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    I bought a set of lightly used (like new, less than 1000 miles) ProMaxx aluminum heads and am in process of cleaning them up. Going to do a light lap on the valves and I want to pull the valve seals out so I can get all the gunk out from under there and the spring seats. The seals are blue positive type like those in the picture. Are they a one time use thing or can I use a snap ring pliers on the lower band and get them off without damage to be used again? I don't have access to the special dedicated pliers. I know that they are pretty cheap but waste not want not.

    s-l640.jpg
     
  2. PRH

    PRH Well-Known Member

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    If they are really the “ring and band” style seals like in the pic, I just gently pry them up off the guide with a screwdriver working from side to side.
     
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    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod Bla de blizhibliz de blatde blizi bla bla FABO Gold Member

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      Those aren't snap rings of any sort. They are just band springs designed to keep the seal tight on the guide. That's all. They'll pry right off just like PHR described. When you go to reinsatll, just lube up the valve tip with oil, slip them over the valve tip, gently twisting them past the valve lock slots. You can push them back on with a corresponding size deep socket.
       
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      • gzig5

        gzig5 Well-Known Member

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        Awesome. Thanks for the fast reply gentlemen. I might have a plastic trim prybar that will get in there.
         
      • mderoy340

        mderoy340 Well-Known Member

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        wrap the stem lock groove with tape to avoid tearing the seal.
         
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        • Wyrmrider

          Wyrmrider FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          0r use a thin plastic straw to make up for the plastic sleeve that comes with them
          perhaps your local machine shop will save one for you
          good idea to clean up the heads
          but I would check seat with dykem
          grinding compound will not leave the valve and seat in the same place when the valve warms up
          3 angle valve job or professional valve job?
           
        • gzig5

          gzig5 Well-Known Member

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          On the valve stem? Too late, at least for this head. I'll make sure they aren't damaged before they go back on. Wouldn't think tape would go through, the fit is pretty darn tight seal to stem.
           
        • gzig5

          gzig5 Well-Known Member

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          A couple of the exaust valve look like there is a section that may not be sealing. Hard to get a pic of but plan to check with dykem before any lapping. I "think" it is a three angle job. Whatever ProMaxx delivers out of the box.

          IMG_3048.JPG
           
        • mderoy340

          mderoy340 Well-Known Member

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          Scotch tape, wipe with brake clean, oil the stem and they slide off.
           
        • flyfish

          flyfish C8H18+N2O = :-D

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          This (for me anyway) falls into the category of "is it worth my time to correct this later should the used part fail"....in this particular case, seals are cheap, ~ 30 bucks, and the time it would take to correct is enough that I would just buy the seals and be done with it....unless the old ones all come off nice and clean, no damage....either way is fine....clear as mud? lol
           
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          • MOPAROFFICIAL

            MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Some words of advice if they're used heads you want to go through them to clean them up and look over them... why would you not change the valve stem seals if you're there?

            Also just like you do to keep from destroying brand new/decent guides you can take a light file and just lightly go over that top edge of the lock groove on the valve stem then spin the valve as you lightly pull on it to get it out. If it's still fights coming right out then you haven't filed it enough.
             
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            • gzig5

              gzig5 Well-Known Member

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              Because they are essentially brand new and I didn't know that they could be damaged by the valve being pulled back through.

              I've thrown enough money at parts that I'm to the point that "while I'm in there" isn't a good enough excuse anymore. I'll look them over and if there is any damage I'll order some more in.
               
            • MOPAROFFICIAL

              MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I completely understand, next thing you know... you'll have people telling you "while you're there" buy forged pistons and a forged crank... and "while you're there" buy better heads ...and "while you're there...." because they just love spending YOUR money and they'll throw every kind of fear Monger tactic at you to get you to pull the trigger how THEY see fit. Seals are like 20 bucks, maybe, but your judgment is your judgment and if they look good then they're good. Just look for crusted oil on the back of the valves, thatll tell you if they are indeed good.
               
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