Valve spring removal ???

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4spdragtop

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Dad and I are trying to put the new valve springs in(Comp) on the 273 and they come with the 2nd inner spring. Install procedure is to remove these for cam break-in and then re-install after break in. Well this is gonna be a pain in the arse...the valve spring compressor that dad bought from Canadian tire is a piece of junk and wont fit down with the positive style valve seals. Compressor broke once already. He went to a rental shop and rented a compressor, but it is the type where the head has to be removed. Any ideas??? We dont really want to have to remove intake and heads after cam break in:violent1: One trick that badsport mentioned is to use soft rope and drop it down each spark plug hole and turn engine over by hand so the valves dont drop down in, but the compressor is a piece of junk...Can anyone help??

Thanks
4spdragtop and ragtops pop
 
make your own...

get some 1/8" plate and cut a u out of it, then bend a arch into it...

get an old rocker and cut the tip off of it

get an old rocker shaft and cut it for just the width of two stands...

and use an air compressor and a leak down tester, much easier...
 

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pretty cool looking tool, but we dont have the extra goodies(rocker, shaft, or welder)..plus in a time crunch...very cool I am going to make one when I can

Thanks
4spdragtop
 
If you have a welder Steve, make one like 805 posted. here is a pic of one you can buy to use as a pattern. If you use the rope trick make sure and tie a knot in the end you leave hanging out just to be safe.

Edit: whoops I posted too late.
 

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pretty cool looking tool, but we dont have the extra goodies(rocker, shaft, or welder)..plus in a time crunch...very cool I am going to make one when I can

Thanks
4spdragtop

bummer...

I like that tool!!


yea i was gonna take orders on them and refine it some more... works great though! need an extra ft on the bar though for 350lbs springs lol...
 
If you have a welder Steve, make one like 805 posted. here is a pic of one you can buy to use as a pattern. If you use the rope trick make sure and tie a knot in the end you leave hanging out just to be safe.

Edit: whoops I posted too late.

Hey Bruce, any idea where to get the one you posted a pic of. Will tie a knot in the rope
 
which springs 901, 995?

901's should require anything but put them on and go.
 
The 901 has a damper in the main spring, single spring with damper, don't mess with those.

The remove the inner spring break in thing is specific to springs sets with two separate wound springs. With 901's you should install them and go.

901's
901-16cca-901-16.jpg


This type you remove the inner 995's
249-995-16.jpg
 
The "destructions" in this case aren't always really clear.
 
bought this one from Ed Hamburger about 25 yrs ago...plates bolt heads....shaft held by pins..slide over valve spring....really easy...also works on BB with another adapter piece...

I modified with the two additions that go out at 45 to allow to get to spring with car with an engine set back and is under the cowling..
 

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Ok well it looks like I misunderstood the "destructions"!! The inner flat spring is supposed to stay in there I guess...on comp cams video, it states to remove the inner spring...I mistook the "damper"??? for an inner spring..here is a youtube link to the how to for solid cam break-in. Can we just re-install the damper, or is there a special way they have to be done??

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re-VqHO3cH8&feature=player_detailpage"]Proper Flat Tappet Cam Break-In - YouTube[/ame]
 
I started with the air compressor approach last time and didn't like it. With piston at TDC, it would sometimes flip the crank under pressure, and throw the socket wrench if I forgot to take it off. I was also scared I might lose air pressure and drop a valve. I ended up just bringing the piston to TDC (checking with wire). I could then let go of the valve and the piston would keep it from dropping far. I could pull it up with my fingers, or with a magnet. I had fairly mild springs (130 lb closed I recall), shimmed as needed. I could just barely slide the keepers in on some. With thicker springs, you might need to jam the valve up tighter to get your keepers in, so might need the rope trick. I am glad I didn't since that would be tedious.

If you use air, my Harbor Freight compression gage kit made connection easy since they have stub hoses with a standard quick connect. You just fear what would happen if the quick connect wasn't secured and the hose pops off. I would put a strong magnet on top of the valve stem just in case.
 
Can anyone tell me if I screwed the valve springs, seeing as how I took the dampers out?? Can I just put them back in and cross my fingers??
 
I just recently replaced all my springs (901), keepers and rockers and I used the spring compressor that Baldsport had posted. Only problem that I encountered was re-installing the keepers on #'s 6,7 and 8 cyclinders where #7 the master cylinder was in the way and the others were just a little difficult because of their location ( I'm right handed with some what big fingers). Got one keeper crossways and had a hell of a time getting it out. I ended up using a rope then bringing the piston up to TDC and then I was able to get the spring to collapse more so that I could remove the keeper. Cpl hrs later I had fire in the hole....
 
Steve: I have a tool I will send you.
PM me your address.

Kenny
 
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