VIN Info

[Marc67Chevelle]

I am trying to find out if the VIN on the 64 valiant convertible i bought is real. 14 42565837 ?
Also trying to determine what year the 225 6 that was installed later in it is from 12086:
2483480-24?

This came with a Kentucky title that was very suspect bought on line

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

Any advice on adding power steering? electric vs traditional?.

 

[bcschief]

1= Valiant 6 cylinder
4= Signet
4= 1964
2= Hamtramck Plant
Last 6 are the VIN sequence numbers.

 

[bcschief]

Does it have an option plate on the left inner fender well? If so, post a picture and we shall take a shot at decoding it.

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

Does it have an option plate on the left inner fender well? If so, post a picture and we shall take a shot at decoding it.

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

Thank you!!

 

[bcschief]

Code Number Description
A-5 345 Automatic transmission 904 TF
F-1 361 Radio Music Master Economy
H-5 385 Heater w/defroster
J-7 367 Convertible top white
M-3 Not listed
N-8 Not listed
Q-0 0 Engine code 02 - 225 slant six
R-2 2 Engine code
T-8 578 48 amp hour battery
W-2 652 Sales code Sold car expedite


SO number is the shipping order number 1114 is Scheduled build date November 14, 1963
3265 is like the work order number for that car has nothing to do with the VIN number.
Body code 145 is Signet 200 convertible
Trim P4X is Premium buckets vinyl Black
PNT is paint MMB is Silver grey metallic roof color, Silver grey metallic body color Black side sweeps (window frames) Not sure how that works on a convertible car

 

[bcschief]

Post some pictures of the car and let the group critique it also shows a picture of the VIN plate specifically how it's attached to the car.

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

Here are vin photos: History is my brother bought this on line sort of as a gift for my boys. It had a Kentucky title which was somewhat suspect. Not a reclaimed title. Regular title. He got an Ohio title issued and transferred that to me. I took that title to AZ DMV and got an Arizona title. My brother never physically saw the vehicle. Shipped to me see next photos i'll send. The vin has what appears to be a hand stamped 14 prefix to the embossed number. The plate is not riveted to the door hinge post? Glued or two sided tape. This leads me to believe that this VIN could be from another car and this car was pulled from a junk yard??

The car was described as "grandmas car, she died and i need to sell it." Low mileage (speedometer doesnt work), needed top installled. (had a top in trunk, never installed)

So perhaps the guy was a con man and it's all fake. The engine is obviously not original as the fuel pump rubs the frame. Engine is solid. Runs great. Great compression. However when i order parts based on the original specs for the engine and trans they dont fit/work. When i enter VIN for parts i get messages "invalid vin".

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

Here are the additional pictures. We have begun stripping it down to repair and repaint the body

 

[bcschief]

Car looks legit the VIN plate should not have rivets your DMV may give you some grief about that but that's how it was done back then. I have no opinion on your power steering plans, to put factory style power steering on here is a list of parts you would need.

Steering column shaft from a 63-66 power steering A body
A small sector steering box, as your car has a small sector pitman arm
Slant 6 power steering pump and brackets
A power steering pulley for the damper
A belt for the power steering
And pressure and return hoses
You may want to put a parts wanted ad in the appropriate forum

 

[bcschief]

You may want to closely inspect the cowl area and the floor pans and the trunk area for rust before you paint the car.

 

[kiwigtx]

When i enter VIN for parts i get messages "invalid vin".

Don't be discouraged by that ..it happens all the time with the older VIN's.

 

[bcschief]

The hand stamped first two digits are normal, the VIN plates were made in masses, but they didn't know what kind of car they were going on in your case the 1 means Plymouth/ Barracuda 6 cylinder and the 4 means Signet. On your fuel pump rubbing the frame I would replace both motor mounts with quality ones, most today are dog poop today, if you do a search of the forum, you should find some sources for them.

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

The hand stamped first two digits are normal, the VIN plates were made in masses, but they didn't know what kind of car they were going on in your case the 1 means Plymouth/ Barracuda 6 cylinder and the 4 means Signet. On your fuel pump rubbing the frame I would replace both motor mounts with quality ones, most today are dog poop today, if you do a search of the forum, you should find some sources for them.

Thanks!!!!

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

So what thread should i be asking questions on?
1. Any recommendations on electric power steering kits
2. Any recommendations on a complete wiring harness (terrible condition)
3. Any recommendations on where to get a V8 and 4 speed bolt in swap?

Thanks Im a little lost here.

Marc

 

[Demonracer]

Place a "Wanted Ad" for the wiring, someone may have what you need. For the /6 to V8 swap, you will need a V8 K member, or a set of Schumacher/Transdapt swap over mounts. I believe the center link may be different between the V8 and /6, also.

 

[WV64Signet]

Place a "Wanted Ad" for the wiring, someone may have what you need. For the /6 to V8 swap, you will need a V8 K member, or a set of Schumacher/Transdapt swap over mounts. I believe the center link may be different between the V8 and /6, also.

Yes. Center link is different

Also, accelerator pedal is different

 

[bcschief]

So what thread should i be asking questions on?
1. Any recommendations on electric power steering kits
2. Any recommendations on a complete wiring harness (terrible condition)
3. Any recommendations on where to get a V8 and 4 speed bolt in swap?

Thanks Im a little lost here.

Marc

I would go over to the early A body discussions and the parts wanted section, use the forums tab at the top left side of any page.

 

[kiwigtx]

So what thread should i be asking questions on?
1. Any recommendations on electric power steering kits
2. Any recommendations on a complete wiring harness (terrible condition)
3. Any recommendations on where to get a V8 and 4 speed bolt in swap?

Thanks Im a little lost here.

Marc

All those topics are easily searched on this website using a few key words.....

 

[Map63Vette]

I finished an electric power steering in my 67 Dart recently and really like it, but it wasn't for the faint of heart and I had a little more supporting electronics already in my car to make it work right. I don't think there is much for bolt in kits out there. Almost everything takes some amount of fab work, whether aftermarket or junkyard style.

 

[Marc67Chevelle]

I finished an electric power steering in my 67 Dart recently and really like it, but it wasn't for the faint of heart and I had a little more supporting electronics already in my car to make it work right. I don't think there is much for bolt in kits out there. Almost everything takes some amount of fab work, whether aftermarket or junkyard style.

what brand kit did you use?

 

[Map63Vette]

what brand kit did you use?

I went the junkyard route and modified my column with a unit from a Toyota Corolla: Starting on my EPAS project (Toyota junkyard swap)

You can use these in a failsafe mode that only requires power and ground to operate, but it does make the steering feel just a little funny. The failsafe mode locks the assist level at what it would be if the car was moving at 45 mph and the return to center is on the slower side. Alignment can help that some (as much caster as you can get), but actually feeding it the signals it wants to see made it feel much more like what you'd find in a modern car. It only needs to see rpm and vehicle speed to be happy, and you can just feed it fixed values for those as a workaround. It's better than the failsafe mode, but not quite as nice as actually adjusting to the speed you're driving.