Voltage regs and Amps?

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  1. Ironracer

    Ironracer Gearhead

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    Had to buy the wrong alt for my 74 Duster. It's a 60 or 65 Amp from a van. Only one in (85 bucks? Don't remember if that was before or after core.) Damn thing took a dump, good thing it had a lifetime warranty ( how the hell can they send our parts to China to be re-manned?
    OK rant over, question is: will the extra amps fry my stuff, no extra electric, but roll at nite sometimes, or does the volt reg limit amps too?
    Thanks, and I hope Everyone is doing good
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
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    • MOPARMAGA

      MOPARMAGA FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Weren't stock alternators 80 or 100 amp ?
      Sorry, I wish I knew electrical better.
      China=puke emoji
       
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      • Ironracer

        Ironracer Gearhead

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        I think the older ones were 30 or 35? I dunno... I remember reading enough about it to be concerned
         
      • Phreakish

        Phreakish Well-Known Member

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        Extra amps are no issue. The regulator prevents excess current (amps).
         
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        • flingdingo

          flingdingo Well-Known Member

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          You'll be fine. The car only uses the amps it needs.

          The regulator controls volts, not amps. Too much voltage will fry stuff.
           
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          • 67Dart273

            67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Well it IS an issue "sometimes." The later cars had the big white connector under the hood to separate the engine harness (Thanks Redfish) This thing deteriorates and needs repaired, so inspect it THE MAIN alternator output wire goes throught hat. Also the bulkhead connector/ ammeter circuit is an issue. Inspect the bulkhead connector by separating the connector halves and look carefully. READ the "MAD" article for insight

            Catalog

            Also CHECK charging voltage when you get it all running. With engine warm and battery charged "and normalized" check charging voltage with accessories off and engine on fast idle. If it is much over 14.5, look for problems in the circuits above as well as the ignition circuit. VOLTAGE DROP through the ignition "run" circuit causes over-voltage/ over-charging

            These girls varied from 37--65 BUT FACTORY 65 alternators HAD A MODIFIED CHARGING CIRCUIT known as "fleet/ police/ taxi" which partially bypassed the bulkhead connector
             
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            • Ironracer

              Ironracer Gearhead

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              Thanks Del!
              OK. I don't recall a white connector. I'll double check in a few. Just checked voltage on batt ( on trickle). Would even a stock ( van app) from the 80s have the same protection?
               
              Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
            • Ironracer

              Ironracer Gearhead

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              Yes. I know from My household electric, that volts is the amount, but amps r the speed. If you get bit, it's the amps that'll hurt I was told many years ago. I think..... lol
               
              Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
            • 67Dart273

              67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I'm not really familiar with the van wiring. That could go either way. About all I can advise is "trace it" and see if the charge wire goes through the bulkhead, AND if the ammeter has large wires like the older cars

              SOME of the newer cars used "external shunt" ammeters --the clue is that the ammeter wires are very small like 18 or 16 or so because they no longer carry much current due to the shunt--which in reality is part of the wire harness itself
               
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              • Ironracer

                Ironracer Gearhead

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                It's my 74 Duster. Redfish ( Thanks!) Sent me the right gauge at no cost,after I bought one off e bay ( seller claimed to work, for my app) from a 75. That's the one I sent you
                 
                Last edited: Oct 20, 2021
              • 67Dart273

                67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                OH GEEZ OK I'm with you now.
                 
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                • Bewy

                  Bewy Well-Known Member

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                  If this is a race car, you only want an alt that is big enough [ 35 amp? ] to keep the battery charged. Any thing bigger than reqd saps hp. You are probably aware that some racers remove the fan belt when racing to reduce hp loss. Not always wise with some ign systems.
                   
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                  • Ironracer

                    Ironracer Gearhead

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                    It built her on the fine line, that I determined, would handle daily driving in Tampa ( and she did, for almost 2 years, in my 66 Sat!) So it needed to run, without issues, in heavy traffic, if required. And yes, and old Mopar Bro told me to drop that, and the p/s belt at the track! Lol
                     
                  • mderoy340

                    mderoy340 Well-Known Member

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                    just add a switch to turn the field off during the pass.
                     
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