VR1. Mineral or full synthetic

Big Block A body Tech

Which VR1?

  1. Mineral

    26 vote(s)
    81.3%
  2. Synthetic

    6 vote(s)
    18.8%
  1. MOPARMAGA

    MOPARMAGA FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Thank you dude.
     
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    • S'cuder

      S'cuder Living in my own Private Idaho FABO Gold Member

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      You are welcome, Sir.
       
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      • MOPARMAGA

        MOPARMAGA FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        That mineral vr1 is what my buddy recommended too.
         
      • S'cuder

        S'cuder Living in my own Private Idaho FABO Gold Member

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        It's good stuff. To find a good price you may need to shop around. Right now Amazon is showing the 10W-30 at $5.88 a quart. All the others are more. Some a lot more.
         
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        • MOPARMAGA

          MOPARMAGA FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Cool, I appreciate you letting me know.
           
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          • Bewy

            Bewy Well-Known Member

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            For a perf engine, I would syn oil.
             
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            • cojohnso

              cojohnso Well-Known Member

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              I run VR1 Racing with a comp cam zinc additive. I lost one solid flat tappet cam months after companies removed zinc additives. (True, cam was getting a little long in the tooth) But? A little too coincidental to trust not. They say it's "High Zinc" But wasn't at one moment in time. So far no issues with new cam of very similar profile with the additive.
               
            • 66fs

              66fs FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I would not run non detergent oil, but Both Chrysler Racing and Chevrolet Racing stated straight 30 oil will give the least wear. I've run Valvoline Racing oil since the 70's in street cars, from South Dakota winters to Florida summers, with lots of miles on them all. Never an oil related failure. Test away, I've done the real test using high performance engines in street cars. And for the record Isky cams have a similar warning about light synthetic oils and flat tappet cams. I'm sure the cam companies have not tested their products with different oils.
               
              Last edited: Jun 24, 2022
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              • Muswagon

                Muswagon Well-Known Member

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                Well said
                 
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                • fishmens67

                  fishmens67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Listen to your buddy.
                   
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                  • Bewy

                    Bewy Well-Known Member

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                    For a performance engine, I do not why this is even under discussion. Why wouldn't you buy the best oil you can get? And that is syn oil. Yeah it costs more, but you are not replacing it every week.

                    I just bought an Isky cam this week. That stupid note they had about mineral oil was not enclosed with the cam. Isky finally got the message it seems....
                     
                  • abodyjoe

                    abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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                    keep an eye out on amazon.. VR1 seems to go on sale a couple times a year. i stock up when i see it .
                     
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                    • ir3333

                      ir3333 Well-Known Member

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                      i jumped on the synthetic bandwagon a few years ago and ran Amzoil...after a couple of oil changes i gave my head a shake and went back to whatever Dino oil is on sale when i need a change.
                       
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                      • 66fs

                        66fs FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        Funny thing, Chrysler investigated synthetic oil and found no benefit. What changed? Believe what you want. Good oil is good oil.
                         
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                        • S'cuder

                          S'cuder Living in my own Private Idaho FABO Gold Member

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                          Time and technology advance. True for cars and true for oil. My 2019 Jeep requires per the manual Mopar spec MS-6395 in grade 0W-20. I don't know if there are any that aren't synthetic based. The one recommended by name in the manual is. While that product will do fine, being in the manual was due to the FCA/Shell agreements. Would I use it in my 340? Not my preference, not often, and not long term, but it would work for one short oil change interval.
                           
                        • 66fs

                          66fs FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          You are more trusting than I. I tried a low viscosity Mobile One, back in the day, took the 4 speed 273 Barracuda out and thrashed it hard for 15 min. Did not like the hot idle pressure when I was done, drained it and went back to Valvoline 30 Racing. Ran the same Valvoline Racing 30 in a 1996 ACR Neon. 250,000 miles on it and it still runs like new. I run Valvoline synthetic 10w-30 in the three new 5.7 Hemi in the 2009 to 2018 Challenger and Chargers. I won't go below 10w-30. I also worked with someone who tested motor oils. The take a way from her was 10w-30 was the best lubricating, less wear, multi grade. In my old cars, including a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, Valvoline 20w-50 Racing is my winter oil. I don't care what MOPAR is recommended anymore, I'm not sure they are looking for the best longevity of my motors.
                           
                          Last edited: Jun 26, 2022
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                          • Bewy

                            Bewy Well-Known Member

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                            What you may not know: some oils, mainly those for production cars, are friction modified. In simple terms, the oil thins out when hot to get better mileage. This came about in the late 70s/early 80s with the oil shortage, & EPA forcing better mileage.
                            I found out the hard way; my engine suddenly lost about 10 psi at idle. The oil had had the FM treatment. In this country they sell oil that is NOT FMed & it is clearly printed on the label. Not sure in the US, but maybe 'Performance' oils are exempt from FM, which might explain the low idle pressure in post #41.

                            As for what Chr recommended in the 70s......much has changed.
                             
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                            • S'cuder

                              S'cuder Living in my own Private Idaho FABO Gold Member

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                              You've got it sorted out just fine. There's no one solution for everything, and you find what works for you and go with that.
                              The only thing I'd respond to in your post is that the 0W, 5W, 10W, etc only refers to the oils ability to flow when cold. As long as it is in grade as a 30 at 100°C, the first number matters little. There are some great 0W-30s out there, and some 10W-30 I wouldn't touch. Also straight grades. I love 'em. The problem with them is price and availability of the ones with a good dose of ZDDP is poor.
                               
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                              • Muswagon

                                Muswagon Well-Known Member

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                                VR1 is widely available and price should not matter if you own a Mopar. I am perplexed at this whole thread and the trying to push other solutions to a problem that has already been solved.
                                 
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                                • Frank Mopar

                                  Frank Mopar Well-Known Member

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                                  Got to love oil threads.
                                   
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                                  • 72Duster440

                                    72Duster440 Well-Known Member

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                                    I picked up 3 cases of it a few months ago from Amazon when it was $20 a case, (~$3 a quart), I should be good for a few seasons.
                                     
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                                    • TXOval

                                      TXOval 340

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                                      Long read if anyone is interested

                                      MOTOR OIL ENGINEERING TEST DATA

                                      If you’ve already done your break-in and rings are seated, either of those VR-1 oils would work.

                                      If you read the link above you’ll see that the European Formula M-1 oil is one of the best
                                       
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                                      • S'cuder

                                        S'cuder Living in my own Private Idaho FABO Gold Member

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                                        For entertainment purposes only, written by a guy with a lot of self love.
                                        It's one person's testing, opinions and conclusions, which have been refuted by many actually in the industry. Those people who formulate and blend the lubes have to stand behind their performance, not just write about it on the internet.
                                         
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                                        • TXOval

                                          TXOval 340

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                                          Agree with what you said. Just wanted to point out its agreement with Mobil1 Euro.
                                           
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                                          • S'cuder

                                            S'cuder Living in my own Private Idaho FABO Gold Member

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                                            Thanks for contributing, and welcome to FABO!
                                             
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