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Thank you dude.
You are welcome, Sir.
That mineral vr1 is what my buddy recommended too.
It's good stuff. To find a good price you may need to shop around. Right now Amazon is showing the 10W-30 at $5.88 a quart. All the others are more. Some a lot more.
Cool, I appreciate you letting me know.
For a perf engine, I would syn oil.
I run VR1 Racing with a comp cam zinc additive. I lost one solid flat tappet cam months after companies removed zinc additives. (True, cam was getting a little long in the tooth) But? A little too coincidental to trust not. They say it's "High Zinc" But wasn't at one moment in time. So far no issues with new cam of very similar profile with the additive.
I would not run non detergent oil, but Both Chrysler Racing and Chevrolet Racing stated straight 30 oil will give the least wear. I've run Valvoline Racing oil since the 70's in street cars, from South Dakota winters to Florida summers, with lots of miles on them all. Never an oil related failure. Test away, I've done the real test using high performance engines in street cars. And for the record Isky cams have a similar warning about light synthetic oils and flat tappet cams. I'm sure the cam companies have not tested their products with different oils.
Listen to your buddy.
For a performance engine, I do not why this is even under discussion. Why wouldn't you buy the best oil you can get? And that is syn oil. Yeah it costs more, but you are not replacing it every week. I just bought an Isky cam this week. That stupid note they had about mineral oil was not enclosed with the cam. Isky finally got the message it seems....
keep an eye out on amazon.. VR1 seems to go on sale a couple times a year. i stock up when i see it .
i jumped on the synthetic bandwagon a few years ago and ran Amzoil...after a couple of oil changes i gave my head a shake and went back to whatever Dino oil is on sale when i need a change.
Funny thing, Chrysler investigated synthetic oil and found no benefit. What changed? Believe what you want. Good oil is good oil.
Time and technology advance. True for cars and true for oil. My 2019 Jeep requires per the manual Mopar spec MS-6395 in grade 0W-20. I don't know if there are any that aren't synthetic based. The one recommended by name in the manual is. While that product will do fine, being in the manual was due to the FCA/Shell agreements. Would I use it in my 340? Not my preference, not often, and not long term, but it would work for one short oil change interval.
You are more trusting than I. I tried a low viscosity Mobile One, back in the day, took the 4 speed 273 Barracuda out and thrashed it hard for 15 min. Did not like the hot idle pressure when I was done, drained it and went back to Valvoline 30 Racing. Ran the same Valvoline Racing 30 in a 1996 ACR Neon. 250,000 miles on it and it still runs like new. I run Valvoline synthetic 10w-30 in the three new 5.7 Hemi in the 2009 to 2018 Challenger and Chargers. I won't go below 10w-30. I also worked with someone who tested motor oils. The take a way from her was 10w-30 was the best lubricating, less wear, multi grade. In my old cars, including a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, Valvoline 20w-50 Racing is my winter oil. I don't care what MOPAR is recommended anymore, I'm not sure they are looking for the best longevity of my motors.
What you may not know: some oils, mainly those for production cars, are friction modified. In simple terms, the oil thins out when hot to get better mileage. This came about in the late 70s/early 80s with the oil shortage, & EPA forcing better mileage. I found out the hard way; my engine suddenly lost about 10 psi at idle. The oil had had the FM treatment. In this country they sell oil that is NOT FMed & it is clearly printed on the label. Not sure in the US, but maybe 'Performance' oils are exempt from FM, which might explain the low idle pressure in post #41. As for what Chr recommended in the 70s......much has changed.
You've got it sorted out just fine. There's no one solution for everything, and you find what works for you and go with that. The only thing I'd respond to in your post is that the 0W, 5W, 10W, etc only refers to the oils ability to flow when cold. As long as it is in grade as a 30 at 100°C, the first number matters little. There are some great 0W-30s out there, and some 10W-30 I wouldn't touch. Also straight grades. I love 'em. The problem with them is price and availability of the ones with a good dose of ZDDP is poor.
VR1 is widely available and price should not matter if you own a Mopar. I am perplexed at this whole thread and the trying to push other solutions to a problem that has already been solved.
Got to love oil threads.