W2 Stroker comin together!

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bias is towards driveability and well rounded powerband. I am sure more cfm would produce more peak hp but that is not my goal.
 
mbaird said:
bias is towards driveability and well rounded powerband. I am sure more cfm would produce more peak hp but that is not my goal.
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For sure, a sound plan. Interestingly, late last summer I swapped in a 2.94 center section for a long road trip. I left on the 950 to see how ugly it would be with those gears, then swapped to my Quick Fuel Q750 thinking the smaller venturi would help with the lower engine speeds. I can honestly say I noticed no real difference in driveability with the 950 vs the 750 which surprised me. On the street any extra power with the 950 is lost in tire smoke anyway, I will test at track this coming season.
 
this 850 may well flow more than a boxstock 950.
A friend in Mn is running a similar build and his carb builder spec'd out an 830.
He runs 10.80s.
 
mbaird said:
bias is towards driveability and well rounded powerband. I am sure more cfm would produce more peak hp but that is not my goal.
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I gotta agree with that. While it is great to have the high hp whip quick ride, an off balance combo or of a race set really suck on the street and that makes driving the car a crappy experience. And that just ruins everything.
 
mbaird said:
I checked leakage while priming/rotating and dont feel there is excessive leakage.
oil pressure around 50-65 @ 1600 rpm
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Boy I hope to all hell I'm wrong, but I think you're going to have low pressure issues. 50-65lbs cold, on a stand is not enough.
I think someone else mentioned hot vs. cold oil.

Only reason I chimed in is I have been there, done that.
 
Ironmike said:
Boy I hope to all hell I'm wrong, but I think you're going to have low pressure issues. 50-65lbs cold, on a stand is not enough.
I think someone else mentioned hot vs. cold oil.

Only reason I chimed in is I have been there, done that.
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We shall see... but my drill is probably turning around 600 rpm which is 1200 crank rpms. And that is probably generous.
 
cpearce said:
For sure, a sound plan. Interestingly, late last summer I swapped in a 2.94 center section for a long road trip. I left on the 950 to see how ugly it would be with those gears, then swapped to my Quick Fuel Q750 thinking the smaller venturi would help with the lower engine speeds. I can honestly say I noticed no real difference in driveability with the 950 vs the 750 which surprised me. On the street any extra power with the 950 is lost in tire smoke anyway, I will test at track this coming season.
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Unless that carb was a recent ultra xp model the 950 is not really a 950. The new one are now being marketed as a true 950. 1.750
Venturi size. That could be why there was no difference.
 
Duane said:
Unless that carb was a recent ultra xp model the 950 is not really a 950. The new one are now being marketed as a true 950. 1.750
Venturi size. That could be why there was no difference.
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A quick fuel Q-950, unless I am mistaken I believe the ultra HP Holley is essentially a copy of this carb. It has 1 3/4 venturi.
 
cpearce said:
A quick fuel Q-950, unless I am mistaken I believe the ultra HP Holley is essentially a copy of this carb.
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That could be. I think those two companies are one now. But I recently read an article explaining that previous versions of the 950 were not true 950,s. The 850 actually was a bigger carb than the 950.
Some kind of marketing bs. But the newer one actually flow 950 and the throttle bores and Venturi are bigger in diameter now.
 
the actuall carb will come out to around 860 cfm. Should be here tomorrow.

Dyno shop now has a twin turbo LS motor on the dyno they are having issues with.
I am starting to get impatient and ready to assemble the drivetrain in the car. I really dont want this project to string out any longer than necessary.
 
mbaird said:
the actuall carb will come out to around 860 cfm. Should be here tomorrow.

Dyno shop now has a twin turbo LS motor on the dyno they are having issues with.
I am starting to get impatient and ready to assemble the drivetrain in the car. I really dont want this project to string out any longer than necessary.
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That is unfortunate for sure. Hope it all works out for you.
 
I can alway chassis dyno it once its on the road.. or yank it out after I get it running and all the linkages/Driveline length / header clearances/O2 bungs etc.. figured out.

Ha ! Who am kidding ! Once I hear and feel that rumble it will be full steam ahead ! lol
 
made a little progress this weekend.
I got my Pro System custom carb last friday and my Daytona CD-1 ignition should be here tomorrow.


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Great looking engine. I think you should get rid of the water pump heater hose loop. Either hook it up to the heater or plug it up to prevent the looping of the pumped water. Just trying to help.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Great looking engine. I think you should get rid of the water pump heater hose loop. Either hook it up to the heater or plug it up to prevent the looping of the pumped water. Just trying to help.
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Thay will be hooked up.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Great looking engine. I think you should get rid of the water pump heater hose loop. Either hook it up to the heater or plug it up to prevent the looping of the pumped water. Just trying to help.
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Nit picking on the quick and easy fix?
Seriously?
 
No meds for me but your off of yours! LMAO!
Over looked? Jeezzz dude, your nit picking, being a dick. It’s so obvious the hose is not correctly done but you make a mention of it to the builder who knows better but did that for a reason.

Come on now.... THINK.!
 
No offense taken... My plan was to Dyno the engine which is why looped the hose. But the dyno session kept getting moved out . I dont want this project to turn into a decade long fiasco so I installed the engine. I will chassis dyno it later.
 
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