Water pump attaching to Slant 6

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Vali68

Vali68

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I turned the Slant 6 over on the stand to start wokring from the top to put on the water pump, oil pump, etc, etc.

When I attach rthe water pump to the block, do i have to worry about sealing any of the bolt holes? I notic a couple of them look like they go into a water channel.
 

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Yes. Probe each with a stiff wire. Some might also penetrate the crankcase, so you need to seal oil. I coat the threads with gasket sealant, but you could use teflon tape.
 
Don't forget your by-pass hose.Easier to install before bolting the pump. Not too bad on a 225.On a 170 it must go on before bolting down the pump. Just a thought. Looking Good !
 
Good point. That bypass hose is a PIA. I still recall spending over an hour changing it in the college parking lot on my 1969 Dart 225. I suggest buying silicone hose (ebay), as I did recently for my 1964 225. It should last forever, plus looks cool in blue. It is more flexible, so slid on easy, which might even work on a 170. Use only silicone hose clamps (no slots that cut thru) and stainless looks smart. I use it wherever the hose is a PIA to get at.
 
Any idea where to find that silicone hose? I think my 170's going to need one, and I couldn't find it on ebay. That would be great!
 
My local Car Quest carries it . Goodyear hose and it's green outside and red inside. I have seen some at Summit Racing that is blue. Funky color to distinguish it from rubber I guess.
 
Aaron65 said:
Any idea where to find that silicone hose? I think my 170's going to need one, and I couldn't find it on ebay.
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I bought it on ebay. Did you search for "5/8" AND "heater hose" AND "silicone"? Get the proper hose clamps too. I recall they make it in black too for traditionalists.
 
Full length silicone hoses of any quality likely aren't going to be inexpensive. I bent these up from 5/8" SST tube from mcmaster-carr. I debated making the turn toward the engine at the front, but that would have meant a far more robust support bracket. Bender used came from Speedway. I'm not too excited about the large bend radius, thinking to try making a die with a smaller one.

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ntsqd said:
Full length silicone hoses of any quality likely aren't going to be inexpensive. I bent these up from 5/8" SST tube from mcmaster-carr. I debated making the turn toward the engine at the front, but that would have meant a far more robust support bracket. Bender used came from Speedway. I'm not too excited about the large bend radius, thinking to try making a die with a smaller one.

i-qvCkXjQ-M.jpg
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I think that looks fantastic. I might play around with something similar. Tube expensive?
 
There are likely less expensive sources, that was just the easiest for me.
 
Did you modify a power steering bracket to mount the alternator on that side?
You got me thinking !
 
Darter6 said:
Did you modify a power steering bracket to mount the alternator on that side?
You got me thinking !
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Me? Car is 20:1 manual.

Were it PS I think that I'd put a remote reservoir KSE (or similar, Toyota?) pump under the Alt, and still have the alt do the tensioning.
 
I was asking if you used a power steering pump bracket to make the mount for the alternator. I see it had manual steering.
 
ntsqd,
Good idea. I also thought of using metal tube for the bulk of the heater run. It is lighter than rubber hose and lasts longer (forever for your stainless). Most newer cars use that, even my 84 M-B. True that silicone hose is more expensive, but for short sections like w.p. to head, it isn't painful.
 
For sealing threads that go into water/oil , use this.
Water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, exhaust/intake studs, temp senders.
Great stuff.
 

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Darter6 said:
I was asking if you used a power steering pump bracket to make the mount for the alternator. I see it had manual steering.
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Ah! I didn't understand the question. I made the mount from 1/4" plate for the base and 3/16" plate for the ears with some 3/4" round bar with a step turned into it to locate the alt's mounting foot and thru drilled for the 3/8" B7 all-thread. The link in the first pic's post has more pictures of the bracket.

BillGrissom said:
ntsqd,
Good idea. I also thought of using metal tube for the bulk of the heater run. It is lighter than rubber hose and lasts longer (forever for your stainless). Most newer cars use that, even my 84 M-B. True that silicone hose is more expensive, but for short sections like w.p. to head, it isn't painful.
Click to expand...
Totally agree. Eventually I'll move to silicone when the budget allows. The SS tube was purchased when employed, the rubber hose when not.

Johnny Dart said:
For sealing threads that go into water/oil , use this.
Water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, exhaust/intake studs, temp senders.
Great stuff.
Click to expand...
I tried several different things trying to seal the manifold studs after the head work, but not that. What worked was what my engine builder told me to use, regular old teflon bearing pipe dope. Since I routinely use heat to loosen Lock-tite'd assemblies I was hesitant to try it for fear that it would soften it and allow leaks.
 
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