Water pump bolt won’t tighten and leaks

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SFBay‘72Duster

SFBay‘72Duster

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Hi everyone.looking for some help with an issue I have. My ‘72 Duster has a 360 LA engine in it. I installed a new water pump because of a coolant leak I discovered.
Now that the new WP is installed I cannot get the that goes through the ps bracket to tighten down. It just spins and since it goes into the water jacket it leaks even with thread sealer.
I purchased a new bolt but I am still having issue. Any insight would be appreciated.
Here is a pic of the bolt in Question.

IMG_2801.png
 
It sounds to me like you might have a stripped thread.

Hopefully, you know how to use Helicoils.
 
You're going to have to disassemble the front of the engine and repair the hole on the block with a heli coil.
 
Cheap quick fix it to use a long stud with a nut and JB Weld! I've done it before, put JB on the end going into the block and let it set-up, then tighten down with a nut...
 
Yes I’m using the correct bolt unfortunately. I confirmed that first. I figured I was going to have striped threads. Just wanted to see what other folks thought.
 
i hope that you've just got a bolt that's incorrect or a smidge too short and it's not catching. otherwise it's stripped and you're going back in there for a repair.

edit: just saw that you've got the right bolt. well... that sucks. however, are you *sure* it's the right one? if somebody else was in there before you they may have substituted something other than what should be. just a thought.
 
junkyardhero said:
i hope that you've just got a bolt that's incorrect or a smidge too short and it's not catching. otherwise it's stripped and you're going back in there for a repair.

edit: just saw that you've got the right bolt. well... that sucks. however, are you *sure* it's the right one? if somebody else was in there before you they may have substituted something other than what should be. just a thought.
Click to expand...
 
I just got done fixing this exact hole on my 340... It wasn't stripped on mine, the bolt would tighten up fine... But it would drip coolant.. I'd resealed the bolt with teflon pipe sealant, I'd tried teflon tape, I'd tried silicone.... Finally pulled the timing cover off the engine & found an old Helicoil that was done back around 2022... So the sealer was sealing the bolt fine, but the coolant was seeping through the outer threads between the block & the helicoil....

I wound up drilling & tapping the hole 1/2-20 then using an insert I made out of a 1/2-20 bolt that I cut, drilled & tapped to accept a 3/8-16 bolt, I didn't drill all the way through the bolt so there was no second path for coolant to leak...
 
Here is one more IMPORTANT tidbit. If you end up removing the timing cover to repair the bolt hole, there is one timing cover bolt on the driver's side that it is IMPERATIVE that you do not use too long of a bolt in. Otherwise, it will bottom out against the outside of #1 cylinder and crack the cylinder as you tighten it down. I don't remember exactly WHICH bolt it is. One of these other guys will show you, I'm sure. But be careful there!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Here is one more IMPORTANT tidbit. If you end up removing the timing cover to repair the bolt hole, there is one timing cover bolt on the driver's side that it is IMPERATIVE that you do not use too long of a bolt in. Otherwise, it will bottom out against the outside of #1 cylinder and crack the cylinder as you tighten it down. I don't remember exactly WHICH bolt it is. One of these other guys will show you, I'm sure. But be careful there!
Click to expand...

This one. Here is the layout and bolt lengths. Thanks to @krazykuda

Screenshot_20250126-185316.png


Screenshot_20250126-185407.png


Screenshot_20250126-185411.png
 
Similar to post #6. S/steel stud, cut off from length of S/S. Hopefully it will pick up on the remaining good threads. Use high strength Loctite to retain, no JB weld. On the front end, use two nuts. Use gasket cement to seal the area, put on the first nut. Just nip it up enough for sealer to seal. Put on second nut & lock it against the first nut. Stops the first nut from loosening.
 
Bewy said:
Similar to post #6. S/steel stud, cut off from length of S/S. Hopefully it will pick up on the remaining good threads. Use high strength Loctite to retain, no JB weld. On the front end, use two nuts. Use gasket cement to seal the area, put on the first nut. Just nip it up enough for sealer to seal. Put on second nut & lock it against the first nut. Stops the first nut from loosening.
Click to expand...
You can't seal it at the front, the power steering adjuster slot leaves the whole area open to leak...
 
If you are saying the coolant will leak past the threads, the Loctite will seal the threads.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Here is one more IMPORTANT tidbit. If you end up removing the timing cover to repair the bolt hole, there is one timing cover bolt on the driver's side that it is IMPERATIVE that you do not use too long of a bolt in. Otherwise, it will bottom out against the outside of #1 cylinder and crack the cylinder as you tighten it down. I don't remember exactly WHICH bolt it is. One of these other guys will show you, I'm sure. But be careful there!
Click to expand...

plumkrazee70 said:
This one. Here is the layout and bolt lengths. Thanks to @krazykuda

View attachment 1716358507

View attachment 1716358509

View attachment 1716358511
Click to expand...

SFBay‘72Duster said:
Hi everyone.looking for some help with an issue I have. My ‘72 Duster has a 360 LA engine in it. I installed a new water pump because of a coolant leak I discovered.
Now that the new WP is installed I cannot get the that goes through the ps bracket to tighten down. It just spins and since it goes into the water jacket it leaks even with thread sealer.
I purchased a new bolt but I am still having issue. Any insight would be appreciated.
Here is a pic of the bolt in Question.

View attachment 1716358317
Click to expand...


Yes, I warn about that bolt hole in my small block rebuild series...

Here's the article right here for those that want to read it and get all the info...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 15: Installing the Timing Chain Cover and Water Pump
 
1WildRT said:
I just got done fixing this exact hole on my 340... It wasn't stripped on mine, the bolt would tighten up fine... But it would drip coolant.. I'd resealed the bolt with teflon pipe sealant, I'd tried teflon tape, I'd tried silicone.... Finally pulled the timing cover off the engine & found an old Helicoil that was done back around 2022... So the sealer was sealing the bolt fine, but the coolant was seeping through the outer threads between the block & the helicoil....

I wound up drilling & tapping the hole 1/2-20 then using an insert I made out of a 1/2-20 bolt that I cut, drilled & tapped to accept a 3/8-16 bolt, I didn't drill all the way through the bolt so there was no second path for coolant to leak...
Click to expand...

4spdragtop said:
Here's the layout. Not sure if there is a difference, BUT this is a 69 and older cast iron wp.

View attachment 1716358499
Click to expand...

For the small coolant leaks like that, I like to use the powdered alumaseal or quicksteel sealers... They are a powder that you pour into the radiator and let the engine warm up and run for 35 - 45 minutes... The powder will "melt" when the engine reaches running temp and then as it goes through the leaky areas will "clog" them and stop them from leaking... You don't need the whole tube, just 1/4 to 1/3 of it... I use this on every freshly rebuilt engine when I do the first start... Or when you take the water pump bolts out that are drilled through to the water jacket... I keep a tube of it in my glove box in case of emergency...

One of my coworkers was a mopar guy like me and his son was also... One day one of his son's crusing buddies had a 80's Monte Carlo with a sb chevy and the water pump gasket had a chunk missing and was leaking... I had my alumaseal in my glove box and we put it in his radiator and ran it for 40 minutes until it stopped leaking to get him home... He planned to fix it later... He ended up selling the car a few weeks later and never fixed the gasket, but the alumaseal was still working...

I don't recommend using Bar's leak because it can clog radiator and heater core passages...

Here's what the sealer looks like and you can find it at most parts stores...

Stop Leak A02.jpg



DSC01092.JPG



Steel.jpg
 
Damn. You’re gonna need a new block. Fortunately every part should change over. Sucks having to get new gaskets though.

:)
 
1WildRT said:
I just got done fixing this exact hole on my 340... It wasn't stripped on mine, the bolt would tighten up fine... But it would drip coolant.. I'd resealed the bolt with teflon pipe sealant, I'd tried teflon tape, I'd tried silicone.... Finally pulled the timing cover off the engine & found an old Helicoil that was done back around 2022... So the sealer was sealing the bolt fine, but the coolant was seeping through the outer threads between the block & the helicoil....

I wound up drilling & tapping the hole 1/2-20 then using an insert I made out of a 1/2-20 bolt that I cut, drilled & tapped to accept a 3/8-16 bolt, I didn't drill all the way through the bolt so there was no second path for coolant to leak...
Click to expand...
 
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