Welded 7.25

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7.25s are NOT C clip rears...and welding one up will increase its strength tremendously.
Moderate weight car...less than 3500 wet, less than 300 horsepower and auto trans, it should last a good, long time.
I like this awnser best... 66 dart = light... its got a slant = wayyy less than 300hp, lol... 904 = sloshbox...
 
I agree with the first, but not necessarily the last. I know a couple guys who broke them with 318s. Just depends on "how big" your foot is LOL

Since this is winter, when I was really young, long about the winter of 67-68---I drove a 57 Chev clear through winter with "weld-a-lock." "It was interesting."

Just the other day I had fun kicking the (limited slip) Dakota around a corner in 2 WD. The local PD would have not been impressed LOL

Hah, yea well... what they dont know, wont cost you! Im just trying to have fun with the slant, and maybe have it live a short while behind a mild 360... i dont have high hopes for it after that tho...
 
You might keep in mind that breaking a **** rear end can ruin the sprag in the automatic, "if that's what you have."

Actually, "in the old days" a friend of mine broke the 10 bolt in his 65 Chevelle, and after we got the axle replaced, we discovered THE MUNCIE 4 SPEED INPUT SHAFT HAD SNAPPED

This is the guy who later was the first owner of my 70 440-6 RR. When I arrived at Navy Electronics "A" school at Treasure Island in the fall of 68, and eventually made my way to the then fantastic amateur radio club, K6NCG,

(Some photos of the club here:)

K6NCG - Treasure Island Radio Amateur Club 1969-1970

here sits George's 65 Chevelle. "It turns out" that he had bought and junked out a low miles wrecked 67 350, 4 speed Camaro. So now the 350/ 4 speed and Rally wheels were on the Chevelle

"Sometime later" after we had become friends, he was (as usual) building up the muscles in his right (throttle) foot, his left (clutch) foot, and his "shifting arm" ..........getting onto the San Francisco Bay Bridge leaving "the Island" and broke the rear axle going into second gear off the on ramp.

We coasted for awhile, "dived" into a turnout on the bridge just as the rear end locked up. There were 3 or 4 of us in the car, I don't remember. Two of use jacked up the car and got one rear wheel setting on the spare tire. I crawled under and removed the rear cover. The C clips fell out as we tried to gut the thing and get it to turn, and neither of us!!! knew what the C clips were for!!!

So here comes the tow truck, who decides to PUSH US down off the bridge. As we went down the ramp, an horrible rubbing of the tires insued!!!! Of course there ARE NO BRAKES because this is before dual master cylinders!!!

But George is a pretty smart guy, and already had a "line lock" on the car. He pushed the button, and "stabbed" the brakes a couple of times to build a bit of pressure in the fronts..........and we rolled to a gentle stop at the bottom of the bridge!!!

Tow truck went around, hoisted the rear, and towed us all back to the island!!! LMAFAO!!!!

We bought a used 10 bolt at a junk yard, and put the thing in. Started 'er up and IT WENT NOWHERE!!!

NOTICE this photo of a Muncie shaft I found on the www

View attachment 1715126138

NOTICE the groove around the shaft splines........I know not what they are for, but that shaft BROKE RIGHT THERE in that groove just as clean as could be, and !!!POOF!!! we have a 'free' alignment tool for putting the clutch in!!!

the grove rings indicate rato's on gm straight gear trans. one ring is wide rato M-23, 2 rings is the close rato M-22 and 3 rings is the covented M-21 rockcrusher
 
the grove rings indicate rato's on gm straight gear trans. one ring is wide rato M-23, 2 rings is the close rato M-22 and 3 rings is the covented M-21 rockcrusher
My old boss has a CJ2A with a GT-350 code 289 and M-21 in it... hooked up to the stock jeep transfer case (T-18?)... he'd have two piles of em in the garage, one pile fresh from the junkyard and one pike that he'd blown up... each lasted about 2-3 months the way he drives... lol...
 
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