Well, it's cracked. How bad is it?

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RustyRatRod said:
You should fab a bracket on the tube to hold it in place if it does not have one. I would not use an epoxy there. I think you will have better luck with some RTV. It will not break if the tube moves around a little. JMO. I am sure others will disagree.
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I had wondered if that was an option. I do have this bracket from the old engine I will be using at the top. So you say just apply some RTV on the tube up to the bevel and install it?

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I'm with Rusty, attach a mounting support and then apply some RTV silicone around the tube towards the top half of the portion the sticks in the block and bolt it down.
 
Yup. That's what I would do.
 
Mine wasn't ever broken and that's how I did it on my new motor. :D
Stable and not even so much as damp around it. (ever)
 
Thanks guys. That's what I will do.

Also, I know it's not the popular opinion here, but after weighing the options I think I will leave the crack as is.

I put some pliers on the end of the crack and it is still very solid. It didn't move much, if at all. I think I feel more comfortable with that than grabbing hold and wiggling not knowing how big of a chunk will break off. The crack stops well below the point where the hole enters the block for the dipstick tube and from what I've read here there is very little stress here. I'm not saying I'm right, but I just can't bring myself to break it any more than I already have when it still seems pretty strong.

Thanks all for the advice. Much appreciated.
 
demon322 said:
Thanks guys. That's what I will do.

Also, I know it's not the popular opinion here, but after weighing the options I think I will leave the crack as is.

I put some pliers on the end of the crack and it is still very solid. It didn't move much, if at all. I think I feel more comfortable with that than grabbing hold and wiggling not knowing how big of a chunk will break off. The crack stops well below the point where the hole enters the block for the dipstick tube and from what I've read here there is very little stress here. I'm not saying I'm right, but I just can't bring myself to break it any more than I already have when it still seems pretty strong.

Thanks all for the advice. Much appreciated.
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Excellent, it'll be just fine.
I was never worried about the crack at all, but only a possible loose piece falling off later.

And by the way, it would have broken right there if you would have done it. :D

image.jpeg
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Ah hell it will be Alright. Run it.
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TrailBeast said:
Excellent, it'll be just fine.
I was never worried about the crack at all, but only a possible loose piece falling off later.

And by the way, it would have broken right there if you would have done it. :D

View attachment 1714950894
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Thanks. And yes, it appears you are right ha. Gonna run it for awhile. If all goes well the engine will be back out in a year or two when the car is painted. I will pull the pan at that point and see if it has grown.
 
demon322 said:
Thanks. And yes, it appears you are right ha. Gonna run it for awhile. If all goes well the engine will be back out in a year or two when the car is painted. I will pull the pan at that point and see if it has grown.
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No stress there, so it'll be exactly the same as it is now.
 
Who was it that mentioned using hard brake lines as dips tick tunes?
I'll see if I can find it for you, but they drilled and tapped the dipstickhole 1/8 NPTHE and screwed in a connecter
Pretty sure they won't wiggle

(edit)

heres the post

My Cure for Broken Leaking Dipsticks
 
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Yeah, I came across this thread last nite, and was going to say a quick search would have revealed an proven, easy, sure way to remove the broken tube,without removing the pan, - and how to secure a loose tube in the hole without "goop"..

Folks need to learn how to "search"
 
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greg r said:
Uh, his broke off at the block. What extraction grip is there that doesn't expand the tube while biting into it?
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Think of hollow wall anchors or lag bolts the kind that pass under the tube and then expand
 
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New tube installed, sealed, and secured. Thanks again all. :thumbsup:
 
Lookin good! But.......where that bracket is......isn't that where the long alternator bolt goes? Not a big deal, just bolt it up when you install the alternator. Great job!
 
greg r said:
Uh, his broke off at the block. What extraction grip is there that doesn't expand the tube while biting into it?
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You incorrectly assume that the tube will expand before it turns.

Sorry, The rest you'll have to "search" for.. lol

cheers
 
RustyRatRod said:
Lookin good! But.......where that bracket is......isn't that where the long alternator bolt goes? Not a big deal, just bolt it up when you install the alternator. Great job!
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You may be right! This is just how it was installed on the 360 that was in the car. The alternator bolt was the hole to the left of the dipstick bracket. I will double check when I swap the alternator to this engine. Thanks again.
 
demon322 said:
You may be right! This is just how it was installed on the 360 that was in the car. The alternator bolt was the hole to the left of the dipstick bracket. I will double check when I swap the alternator to this engine. Thanks again.
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I am just glad you got it fixed. It looks fine. I think it will work good.
 
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