What’s with all these washers?

Slant 6 Engines

  1. Troub

    Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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    A shot of the pully in front of the damper from a few months ago after pulling the engine....(pic)
    Currently back from a rebuild and I’m putting pieces back on her. There’s no way all the washers on that bolt are a good thing. Why would someone do that and how do I correct? As simple as a longer bolt?

    5A777A87-0423-4DB0-9029-54CE48BFFC0F.jpeg

    5D77F947-C144-40CB-908F-D451A9E83D8C.jpeg
     
  2. SGBARRACUDA

    SGBARRACUDA ROY FABO Gold Member

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    What washers?
     
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    • Troub

      Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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      The washers on the bolt on the front pully. The second pic shows them better. There are 4 or 5 behind the bolt.
       
    • SGBARRACUDA

      SGBARRACUDA ROY FABO Gold Member

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      Crank bolt is obviously to long. Find a shorter one or shorten that one.
       
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      • pishta

        pishta I know I'm right....

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        F it, just pull it and dont use a bolt. Many never got them.....
         
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        • TrailBeast

          TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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          Betcha they had to use a longer bolt for that extra pulley on there.
           
        • zkx14

          zkx14 Duster De-ruster FABO Gold Member

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          Probably used that bolt and washers to put it back on. Start with one washer. Crank it down. Add more, tighten more. Etc, till its all the way on and left them all there.
           
          Last edited: Aug 4, 2019
        • RustyRatRod

          RustyRatRod 30 Degrees Outta Whack FABO Gold Member

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          None of them ever got them I don't believe. Someone probably put it there thinking it needed one. Lets find out. @slantsixdan will hook us up on the truth. How bout it Dan, did any slant ever come with a harmonic balancer bolt that you know of? I've never seen one.
           
        • Troub

          Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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          Thanks for the replies. Would def like to know Slantsixdans thoughts on it as well. Timing cover and water pump back on today. Can't believe I forgot to paint the front of the block. Not like I wasn't staring right at it or anything! Pics...

          image.jpeg

          image.jpeg

          image.jpeg
           
        • slantsixdan

          slantsixdan =..=

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          Some early-production 1960-model Slant-6s came with a bolt, but it was eliminated soon after SOP (with no other related changes) because it is not at all necessary. The vibration damper is an interference fit (press fit) on the crankshaft; it won't be any more secure with a bolt or less secure without one. Sometimes it's convenient to have a bolt there for easy hand-rotation of the engine, but other than that, no reason to have it.
           
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          • RustyRatRod

            RustyRatRod 30 Degrees Outta Whack FABO Gold Member

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            Looks good. If it was mine, I'd run the balancer bolt since you have it. I just got one for mine yesterday at the hardware store. Grade 8 3/4 fine thread x 2" for 3.49. All over ebay as "balancer bolt" for 19.99 and up. lol
             
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            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod 30 Degrees Outta Whack FABO Gold Member

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              Thank you sir!
               
            • Troub

              Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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              Thanks Dan!
               
            • Troub

              Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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              Ahhh The wonderful world of eBay!
               
            • Troub

              Troub 67 Dart 270, 225 slant six

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              Another question.....the hose connection at the base of the thermostat housing area is threaded. Is that actually removable or would it have done the old metal meld thing after all these years? Anyone ever thread one out?
              My top connection looks like hell as well.

              image.jpeg

              image.jpeg
               
            • RustyRatRod

              RustyRatRod 30 Degrees Outta Whack FABO Gold Member

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              Yup they are threaded. Soak them down good with Sea Foam Deep Creep for a few days then try to get them out. They do look like hell.
               
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              • my68barracuda

                my68barracuda Well-Known Member

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                Agree, the heater hose nipples are threaded. Soak them inside and out with penetrating oil for days, and with persuasion they will thread out. Usually it takes a small pipe wrench and you will crush them during the removal process. Dorman has replacements.
                 
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                • krazykuda

                  krazykuda Well-Known Member FABO Gold Member How-To Section Editor

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                  Have you tried to heat the head where it screws in with propane torch??? Heat is good for loosening stuck threads... If the propane torch can't heat it enough, try acetylene torch, just be careful not to get it too hot and melt anything... Heat the metal around the base of the nipple to be orange, then put some vise grips on it and crank it out... Keep in mind that you want to heat the hole, not the nipple... If you heat the nipple, it will expand and be tighter, focus the heat around the hole when heating it up to loosen it... The theory is to make the threaded part smaller and the hole bigger to loosen it... If you can hit the inside of the nipple with some penetrating oil to cool the nipple down after heating the hole, that will also help loosen it up... Open the hole and shrink the plug is the theory for success here...

                  As far as a replacement nipple, I like the ones with a hex drive... You can order them from Grainger.... This one has the correct 3/8" pipe thread with a 3/4" hex to drive it in with a 3/4" deep well socket or open end wrench... I like this nipple as you will not have to use any bushings to adapt it...

                  GRAINGER APPROVED Brass Beaded Hose Barb with Straight Fitting Style, 3/8" Thread Size - 6AFH7|6AFH7 - Grainger


                  The original ones had slots at the top of the nipple to drive it in... PIA for us home mechanics... Hex drive is much easier...
                   
                  Last edited: Aug 21, 2019 at 11:23 PM
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                  • Tooljunkie

                    Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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                    I have used a hacksaw blade inside the pipe fitting to cut a slot to the threads. Have to watch as you go and quit when the points of the threads show.
                    Two cuts and out it comes.
                    A pipe tap to touch up the threads and you are good to go.
                     
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                    • petty437

                      petty437 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      I was able to get mine out soaking it with PB Blaster for a couple days & a little heat from a torch. Came right out. Layson's has replacements.
                       
                    • Jadaharabi

                      Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      • SGBARRACUDA

                        SGBARRACUDA ROY FABO Gold Member

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                        Thought I would mention a trick taught to me years ago. When you put vise grips on a fitting, they usually crush before coming out. Drop the largest diameter bolt down the inside of the fitting before you clamp down on it. Works pretty good on getting then to break loose.
                         
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                        • 69a100

                          69a100 Well-Known Member

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                          I didn't have a crank bolt on mine, I installed one anyway not knowing the difference at the time. I will say that it helps a lot to have one when it's time to adjust the valves!
                           
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