1. olddman

    olddman Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice. The shop I am going to go to does work on older cars and has done some body work and painting for me. Can you tell me where to get the eccentric bolts and washers? Will get those and then get another alignment.
    Will get the old torque wrench out and tighten down the strut rod nuts in the next day or two.
    Do the strut rods for the fenders come in different lengths or can you tell me how to lengthen them?
    More important, should I do the alignment first and then look into the strut rods if needed?
     
  2. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    It has been 30 years or more the last time I had my car on the alignment rack so not sure about the machines used today but then was Hunter and done myself. If the rear is canted at all would this lead to exaggerated front changes just a thought and question!

    I was concerned about young guns cranking on my upper A’s without unloading the suspension prior to adjustments. This is why I do the strings and such at home!
     
  3. 1969383S

    1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Have you checked strut rod length from the K face to LCA face either side yet?
     
  4. pishta

    pishta I know I'm right....

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    3c81237a6fdeb77487bf9d77fad3b94f.jpg

    Adjust this bad boy. There is a certain amount of motion at the end of the LCA as they are only stamped formed sheet metal. Possibly could alter the length (double threaded nuts so you have some adjustability) and push your LCA back in line with your other one. Then we can debate the age old question: Concave or convex washer?
     
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    • 4spdragtop

      4spdragtop Well-Known Member

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    • George Jets

      George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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      I can look up the new eccentric bolt assemblies for you.

      The lower fender brace modification is done by extending the rods with a 1" piece and a welder. Could wait with this till you get your new eccentrics and alignment done. That may fix it by it's self.

      Don't think your strut rods are a big issue, just make sure they are tight. If anything tightening them more is going to move the wheels even farther forward if they are not seated already now.

      Should check to see that the strut rod rubber bushings are properly seated in the K frame they are tough to put in. By your lower ball joint measurements being the same would say they are OK, but check.

      This is one area if those rubber bushings are not seated deep enough, that could bring both front wheels forward.
       
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      • 1969383S

        1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Seemingly if the LBJ measurement is the same to the specified measure point down the frame rails then only the upper arms and or actual front body can be the point of issue. Where were these measurements taken?
         
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        • George Jets

          George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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          OK here are the new Eccentric Alignment Bolt kits with the plus or minus 2 1/4 degree adjustability (stock are only 1 degree).

          For your 72 Dart 6 cyl:
          Moog K8243A
          Need to buy 2 pair

          Rock Auto, under Suspension > Alignment Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit

          20200226_211608.jpg
           
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          • Jim Lusk

            Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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            It's not the cam bolts. It is likely the alignment, BUT since your lower ball joints are the same distance to the same point in the rear, check the measurement from the lower ball joint forward to a common point on the fender.
             
          • brian6pac

            brian6pac Well-Known Member

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            Move the fender forward, move the door forward, just open up the gaps.
             
          • olddman

            olddman Well-Known Member

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            Have not checked strut rod length from K to LCA face.
            Have not taken measurement from upper A frame.
            Have not taken measurement from lower ball joint to common point on fender.
            May wait until I send y'all what I found out.
            Should have time to do these measurements this weekend. Will let you know the results as soon as I can.
             
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            • olddman

              olddman Well-Known Member

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              Alright everyone, I have some more measurements.
              1. Center upper ball joint to front of inner wheel well:
              L: 21 1/4 "
              R: 21 1/4 "
              2. Lower control arm to end of strut rod:
              L: 19 3/8"
              R: 19 1/2"
              3. Rear of tire to lower point of wheel well:
              L: 5 1/2"
              R: 5 1/2"
              4. Front edge of lower wheel well to front edge of bumper: L: 18 1/2"
              R: 19"

              Looks left wheel well is not shaped the same as the right one. Do not know what else to measure. Plan on taking it in to have alignment done. Any more ideas are welcome. Do not know when I will have alignment done, but will let you know results. Thanks Everyone
               
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              • George Jets

                George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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                One more measurement I am lookig for.

                Driver's front sub frame rail right behind the bumper bracket out to the bottom of the front lower of the fender.

                Then measure the same at passenger front frame to the pass lower front fender bottom edge (near the lower wheel opening moulding).

                Thinking that you caught the driver's front fender bottom and bent it up and in a tad when you were backing up.
                 
              • olddman

                olddman Well-Known Member

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                Will try to check tomorrow and let you know results. Thanks!
                 
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                • Thomas Dennis

                  Thomas Dennis Well-Known Member

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                  Don't you torque the strut rods at ride height
                   
                • brian6pac

                  brian6pac Well-Known Member

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                  Like I said move the door and fender and hope the hood lines up and that's all you got.
                   
                • 69FBCuda

                  69FBCuda Life in the Fast Lane

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                  Try taking some outboard measurements to see if the body metal is out of whack or if the cars not tracking straight. Say centerline of rear axle hub as "0" and come forward noting the post jam then front jam and then back of wheelwell then center of front hub and front of wheelwell. Compare both sides to see if their the same.

                  Make sure the wheels are straight ahead because their not in the pictures.
                   
                • AJ/FormS

                  AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s

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                  Good call, that happened to me.
                   
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                  • olddman

                    olddman Well-Known Member

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                    Well here some more measurements:
                    1. Center rear wheel to edge of door jamb (frame):
                    L: 38 1/2"
                    R: 38 5/16"
                    2. Edge of rear door jamb (frame) to edge of front door jamb (frame):
                    L: 48 1/4"
                    R: 48 5/8"
                    3. Edge of front door jamb (frame) to center of front wheel:
                    L: 24 7/8"
                    R: 24 3/4"
                    4. Center of front wheel to front edge of bumper:
                    L: 32 1/4"
                    R: 32 3/8"

                    Did some other measuring and found bumper to be slightly off straight. Looks like there is a difference of 1/4". Left side of bumper is about 1/4" closer in than the right side.
                    Will try to measure sub frame rail behind bumper bracket to bottom of front lower bumper.
                     
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                    • George Jets

                      George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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                      Looks like the body is all within 1/8" specs as it should be.

                      Cars with frames underneath them have 1/4" plus or minus specs as a tolerance for their frames.
                       
                    • olddman

                      olddman Well-Known Member

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                      Guess question is should I be concerned about clearance or try to bend, push out bottom of wheel well? Beginning to think that alignment may not be much good. Thoughts
                       
                    • George Jets

                      George Jets 1967 Dart 2 Door FABO Gold Member

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                      Yes try and pull/pry your lower fender away from the tire with a 3 foot 2 x4.

                      You can also loosen that lower front support rod at the bottom front of fender, there are slots in that rod that allow you to pull out, adjust it, then tighten it up again to hold it in place.

                      Like this rod here in the pic on the upper left:
                      123_1.jpg
                       
                    • Jim Lusk

                      Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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                      Alignment. There are variations in these cars, but take the rear cam and put it all the way in with the front cam all the way out. Then bring the rear cam out until you have about .5 degrees negative camber. That is the most caster that you can get out of the current set of parts. Set the toe to about 1/16" toe IN. Then look at the fender to tire clearance again.
                       
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