What Master Cylinder? and more

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Eric_S68

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Hi All! I'll try to make this short n to the point. Car is (going to be) a 73' Duster 60/40 drag/street car in progress. I upgraded to 11" X 2.5" LBP Rear brakes and I plan the front brakes will be STOCK 74' Disc A-body.

1) Can someone tell me the proper master cylinder Part # for this application? A chain store # will help , I'll research it.

2) My plan is to just to "T" off the front brake lines to the front calipers and run 1 line to the rear with an adjustable (proportioning???) valve? Am I on the right track?

3) Can some one fill me in on the "fix" for the emergency brakes when you swap to the 11" rear brakes? I understand there's some sorta legnth problem on the cable or backing plate to lever distance. I'd like to keep the e-brake for what it is an e-brake. Looking for the answers before I get there...

Thanks for any answers..
Eric
 
Eric_S68 said:
2) My plan is to just to "T" off the front brake lines to the front calipers and run 1 line to the rear with an adjustable (proportioning???) valve? Am I on the right track?

3) Can some one fill me in on the "fix" for the emergency brakes when you swap to the 11" rear brakes? I understand there's some sorta legnth problem on the cable or backing plate to lever distance. I'd like to keep the e-brake for what it is an e-brake. Looking for the answers before I get there...

Thanks for any answers..
Eric
Click to expand...
In reverse, #3 first, The intermediate cable, is a single long cable that is threaded. Adjust the nut accordingly. You'll probably need alot of WD-40 or equal and time to free it up. Also, I took mine to a wire wheel to clean the threads of the years of rust and corrosion. (sp0 This makes the nut adjusting easier.

#2. Thats not a way I'm used to seeing things done on brake lines. MoPar or Wilwood (Probably the same part) and other places have and adjustable knob designed for a full system to work through it.
Now I don't know for sure, but I'd work it that way for best results and ease on installation. If thats possible. It can't be easy to get it all lose after many years under there.
 
Rumble, Thanks!

#3 ??? That's it just adjust the rod legnth? I thought there was an issue with cable legnth from the backing plate to the E-brake "arm"...

#2 I have a proportioning valve... one inlet one outlet. Therefore, a "T" to the fronts (full pressure) and thru the valve to the rear. Can't see why it wouldnt work. The only reason the front and rear stock lines go to one
proportioning valve is for the 'Idiot" light on the dash (far as I know)

#1 A master cylinder part # anybody?
 
I'd like to correct myself here.
The parking brake cable is non-adjustable on my Duster. It is the passenger side whatchamacallit. Let me describe it;

The parking brake cable (Intermediate) goes from (Basicly) the drums and loops around by the tranny cross member and back to the otherside.
What helps the cable make the turns are a triangle peice of metal with a J channel to hold the cable. There suspended/held up by a rod that self locks into the frame. The passenger side has threads to which you can adjust the cable tension/length.

You can adjust only so much. How much cable can be taken up is an unknown to me. But the nut will have about 5 inchs of adjustment. At least on my car it does.
Need a picture?

The idiot light is a wire to the side of the P-valve.
 
Eric if you have the drum style combination (proportioning) valve your correct about a tee fitting doing the job just the same on the front wheels. If you have the disc style valve there's more in it. It also has a valve to slow the application of the front discs (having a brain fart right now, can't remember what they call it) so they apply at the same rate as the slower acting drums. I don't know how much this valve really affects things though because I've read where several people have converted to discs and kept the old style valve and said their brakes work great. It also has a residual pressure valve for the rear brakes to make them apply faster and give a firmer pedal. The M/C number LG gave is a good number at most auto supply stores. The only problem I ran into when I converted to discs was I went through 3 of these rebuilt M/C's and they were all junk. I found out NAPA can order a brand new M/C for just about $15 more than one of the rebuilds. Ordered it and it was a very nicely built piece and works great. Sorry but it's been too long so I don't have any numbers but just go to NAPA and ask for one for a 74 Dart or Duster non power disc brakes and tell them you want a new one. They will probably have to order it but new sure beats one that probably has been rebuilt to death.
 
I did not have to do anything either when I changed mine to
C body brakes. I did the same thing as rumblefish360 and it
works great. Sorry I don't remember which year master cylinder
I bought.

They sell adj. proportioning valves for the propose you are looking
for. I don't remember changing my proportioning valve, IIRC I tested
the brakes to see how it worked and I found no need. For me I have
better brakes than I did with the power brake setup.

Just in case as you may know this. If you have power brakes now
you will need a different (I think shorter) brake rod or whatever
it's called.
 
use a M/C with a 15/16" bore size from a 73-74 a body(i.e. bendix #11571) this will tame pedal effort about 20%. the pushrod from any 63-76 a body manual brake car, regardless of disc or drum, is the same length. keep the existing distribution block and just plumb in the adjustable prop valve between the dist block and the rear brakes.
 
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