What to look for when buying an engine.

Discussion in 'New Hemi Engine Swaps' started by elbert79, Aug 9, 2018.

  1. elbert79

    elbert79 Member

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    Hi, new member on the forum, been lurking around for a while but as I plan to start a G3 swap in my 1971 Dodge Dart Swinger I thought is was time to register.

    Anyway my first question is what to look for when sourcing an engine. I'm looking for a 5.7 345hp engine so that limits the selection to 2003 up to 2008 engines. Reason is that a bigger/stronger engine might be difficult to get approval for by our local version of DMV.
    So should I look for a truck or a car engine?
    What mileage should be the upper limit to have a fair chance of avoiding a rebuild?
    Are the 2008 engines better than the earliest with regards to loose valve seats and other potential issues?
    See there are a lot of engines on ebay sold by wrecking yards etc. Would they be a good place to get the engine from? Buying a wreck to pull the engine is not an option as I'm located in Norway and there aren't many Hemi cars around here in the first place.
     
  2. krazykuda

    krazykuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member Technical Editor

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    Start here at post #29315 and read for a couple of pages for some tips.... We were talking about it a couple of days ago in the coffee thread...

    Stop on in for a cup of coffee

    Poast #29322 is a good point also....
     
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    • elbert79

      elbert79 Member

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      Sticking with the original 904 for now, so seems like that is another reason to use 2008 or older.
       
    • Map63Vette

      Map63Vette Well-Known Member

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      Car vs truck doesn't matter too much aside from accessory positions and intake. Otherwise they are effectively the same. You can swap parts freely between them, though I understand you might have a harder time finding parts to swap. Typically the truck engine accessories are easier to work with and require less potential modifications (no frame trimming for alternator, more standard water pump inlet and outlet), but they don't look as nice and the intake inlet is pretty much right on top of the engine. The car intake mounts at the front, so it's a little nicer looking, but with the tradeoff of the accessories being in different places.
       
    • elbert79

      elbert79 Member

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      Not having to trim the frame is a big plus as the authorities don't like frame modifications around here. Could you use a car intake while still retaining the truck accessories mounting?
       
    • turbofreek

      turbofreek batcrap crazy racing team

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      no the front alt setup interfers with the truck front cover and car intake setup
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod Just another dumbass. Technical Editor

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      Things to look for in a running engine include how the oil looks and smells. Make sure it's clean and fairly transparent. That's a good indication it's been changed frequently. Also, take a vacuum gauge with you. Get a vacuum reading at idle, if you can. The stronger the better. Over 20 inches is good. Also, remove the oil cap and check for blowby. All these things are good indicators of the engine's overall health, regardless of mileage.
       
    • Map63Vette

      Map63Vette Well-Known Member

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      I know I have seen some installs that didn't require any frame clearancing. It seems to be a bit of a random thing. It's not necessarily the frame itself as much as a flange where two pieces come together that are spot welded. I think you might be able to swap in a different alternator with a slightly smaller body as well, but I've never really looked to see what all was out there.
       
    • turbofreek

      turbofreek batcrap crazy racing team

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      the truck alt is up top and works best. car alt has 2 different locations one is further outwards than thebother by an inch or less. most wont notice the differences of that.
      truck works best or custom front cover
       
    • 1Fast340

      1Fast340 Well-Known Member

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      Welcome aboard!

      Another place where you can find these engines are in the country right to the east of you but not as cheap as they seem to be in America,the ones in Swedish wreckingyards tend to be somewhat expensive but atleast many of them are marked as tested and ok(if we want to trust that is a different story)its alitle anoying to have to check all listings individualy but there may be a way aorund that. Most wreckingyards list there stuff on:
      Bildelsbasen.se - Sveriges största utbud av bildelar You can probably figure out the Swedish text, ohh wait its also available in Norwegian,see below:
      Bildelsbasen.se - Nye og brukte bildeler

      You can also check out Blocket for adds from both private persons and bussines,have seen a few 5.7s for sale on there,most to expensive in my opinion but a few that has been very reasonable priced.
      Link directly to search for adds,you may figure out some better searchterm but Hemi have brought up more than a few over the years, even thougth the good priced ones are not as comon.
      Hela Sverige > Bildelar & biltillbehör | Blocket
       
    • elbert79

      elbert79 Member

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      Been looking at getting an engine from Sweden, but usually the pre 08 engines have very high mileage and the price is also somewhat high. I will keep an eye open for any deals across the border though, so thanks for the input.
       
    • elbert79

      elbert79 Member

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      For an engine which has rolled around 100k, would it be a good idea to change rings and bearings just to freshen it up, or just keep it as is as long as compression and oil pressure is good?
       
    • 1Fast340

      1Fast340 Well-Known Member

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      Dont know if you found an engine yet,but here is one with reasonable milage on it for what i would consider a fair price.

      HEMI 5.7 motor | Göteborg
       
    • abodyjoe

      abodyjoe Well-Known Member

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      truck engine.. the accessories are in a better location for an abody,
       
    • elbert79

      elbert79 Member

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      Found out today that I might actually get approval for a newer engine as well 2008+, so might be looking at one of those.
      Only issue is that they would require an upgrade to larger brakes based on the following formula:
      Rotor diameter = 260+ (0,3 x power in kW) + (axle load in kg – 1000) x 0,05
      So I would need 12.5in discs up front...
      Started a new thread for the brake upgrade... Although good brakes are cool, it seems a bit over the top?
       
    • elbert79

      elbert79 Member

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      Looks like a decent price...