What's up with these new rotors?

Brakes for your Classic Mopar

  1. TrailBeast

    TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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    When I replaced my wheels and tires I got all new rotors bearings, seals and pads.
    I got everything through Napa as to attempt to get good quality parts instead of some off the wall brand from one of the "cheaper" parts stores.

    The rotors came with the outer races already in them, but I got National brand bearings and races to put in.
    The plan was to pull the already installed races and replace them with the known matching good quality races.

    Now here's the catch.
    The new rotors don't have the notched out places so you can get to the back side of the outer races of the inside bearings to drive them out.


    Suggestions on getting the outer races of the inside bearings out if you can't get behind them?
    At this point I'm thinking to try and gently get between the rotor casting and the race with one of my real sharp thin chisels and see if I can ease them out.

    SANY0032.JPG

    SANY0033.JPG
     
  2. Dicer

    Dicer Diceman FABO Gold Member

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    Maybe using a small rotary file (pencil grinder) and make new notches.....that way the notches will be there for the next time.
     
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    • toolmanmike

      toolmanmike FABO Staff Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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      The Chinese didn't copy the originals to the letter like they said they would. LOL

      :wtf::BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:
       
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      • Blind Squirrel

        Blind Squirrel Well-Known Member

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        I'd drop in the smallest washer that would hit the bottom of the race. Tack weld in about four spots mid race and drive out from the rear.
         
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        • BigBlockMopar

          BigBlockMopar BigBlockMember

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          Weld a piece of steel rod in/across the race and knock it out.
          Then file 2 notches in the rotor for the next time
           
        • mderoy340

          mderoy340 Well-Known Member

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          Cut 2 grooves diagonally across the race 180* apart. Hit with a sharp chisel and the race will crack in 2 pieces. Wear goggles!
           
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          • TrailBeast

            TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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            All the above are possibilities I have as options.
            A big washer welded in to the race was one of my best thoughts I think.
            Then use my die grinder to cut access recesses for next time.

            I also considered using my Mototool to cut the races in half.
             
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            • 3404spdfish

              3404spdfish Well-Known Member

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              I know this isn't Mopar but I work on Aircraft and from time to time I have to weld directly onto the race 2 small beads across from each other and punch the race out from the F18 nose mount. this might help
               
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              • RustyRatRod

                RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                I like the welding the bar across it method, but I would be skiddish of the heat getting to the rotor too much. Might not be a concern, but it would concern "ME".
                 
              • Tooljunkie

                Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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                Just welding the race may be enough to make it fall out.
                Very common practice. The heat transfer wouldnt be enough to cause warpage.
                 
              • TrailBeast

                TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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                I wouldn't worry too much about the heat on the rotor itself since it would be just a couple of tacks with the mig.
                (about 3 seconds per tack) let it cool and knock em out.
                 
              • fklskv

                fklskv Well-Known Member

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                Run a bead of weld around the race and let it cool. You can the use the weld bead to catch a chisel on. They should almost fall out.
                 
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                • Tooljunkie

                  Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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                  Also,wash it thoroughly before driving in the new cups.i have found sand inside the castings on more than one occasion.
                   
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                  • TrailBeast

                    TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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                    I was tying that this would be funny and backed it out.:D
                     
                  • RustyRatRod

                    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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                    Hay yall are right I'm sure, but rotors and brakes are like airplane wings. When things go wrong, they fall off.
                     
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                    • oldmodlover

                      oldmodlover Well-Known Member

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                      I agree. Been working on old stuff and race cars for many years.
                      Run a bead around the inside of the race. Let cool. The weld bead will cause the race to shrink. Should damn near fall out.
                       
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                      • RAT ROD AL

                        RAT ROD AL I know just enough to be dangerous FABO Gold Member

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                        I would make sure that the races are the same size as the ones you're knocking out. You never know what Ching Pong may have made.
                         
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                        • YY1

                          YY1 Well-Known Member

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                          After all this, I'll just say-

                          I always just put the new bearing in the pre-installed race.

                          Never, never had an issue in over 30 years

                          Doesn't seem to make a difference vis-s-vis manufacturer.

                          You tighten them to drag, then back off a hair.
                          (that's an art, BTW)

                          The very first one I ever did, I did as everyone is describing.
                          I quickly decided I wasn't gonna do all that again every time.
                           
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                          • Murray

                            Murray FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            When this situation comes up in a case where I don't have to save the bearing, I use my dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut through in one or two places to remove. Thinking ahead , I like the idea of grinding two notches in it for future removal.
                             
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                            • hemi71x

                              hemi71x FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              I have to agree with this.
                              Just pack the bearing with grease, put it in the already installed race, tap on the grease seal and be done with it.
                              Your making a mountain out of a mole hill with your situation.
                               
                            • TrailBeast

                              TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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                              Can't do that.
                              I need the new race that came with the new bearing in there.
                              I have the time and patience for a mountain if that's what I need to do to be sure of my mole hill quality.:D

                              I would agree with @YY1 normally, but it isn't 30 years ago when we could count on manufacturers and suppliers to not throw the cheapest parts into things just so their prices can be a little lower than the next place.
                               
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                              • hemi71x

                                hemi71x FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                Why?
                                What going to be the big difference if you use the new race that's currently in the rotor, and the new bearing that your talking about?
                                Never going to notice anything detrimental with the bearings being packed with grease.
                                 
                              • RAT ROD AL

                                RAT ROD AL I know just enough to be dangerous FABO Gold Member

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                                30 plus years working on big rigs was always told, taught, and trained to use a matched set.
                                 
                              • TrailBeast

                                TrailBeast Slightly Twisted Member

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                                If I knew the answer to that question I might not be taking the ones that came with the rotors out.
                                Believe me I'd just throw it in there if it was a trailer, but I want the new races that came with the new bearings in there.
                                Keep in mind that I asked opinions on taking the existing ones out being there is no access to them, and not weather I should or not.:D

                                But thank you for saying.
                                 
                              • Tooljunkie

                                Tooljunkie King of cobble/master of the broken bolt FABO Gold Member

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                                So you are knocking out a chinese bearing to replace it with a chinese bearing? The tolerances between manufacturers today is negligible. As a cerified technician i have been repacking bearings for nearly 40 years, less now of course. Never ever a problem with mis-matching bearing manufacturers.
                                And back in my parts days there were times when cup and cones had to be mis-matched simply due to availability.
                                Be it on heavy equipment or light trailers, there is really no difference.
                                 
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