When **** hits the fan

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stixx said:
Same here, that is less wall than a decent sleeve.
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The walls are about .225ish thick, the thrust was probably .160 - .180
...they just dont look it. I'll have to find a "piece" and mic it.
The next one will .020 over none the less ,thicker=better ring seal=more power.
Im also thinking I might change out those guides as well, they tend to move around.
 
Chained_360 said:
Holy cow! That motor sure did blow up! That's one of the most impressive engine failures I've seen/heard of. Thanks for all the detailed pics and story! Good attitude too, not many people would be so glad about a motor fragged that bad. Also, I had no idea cylinder walls were that thin! I always thought they were way thicker.
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Well... I'm not glad, I'm not pissed. A little happy, could say...
I still have not had any motor come apart do to assembly error, machine error, etc.... 1st one by tune error...and it was octane that I beleive could have saved it. I've run a 74 primary before, just was a little flat up top, stock 76 was too fat, 75's were just right.
 
Looks like some core shift on that cylinder too.... right hand wall (in the pix) looks thinner than the left hand wall.
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Well... I'm not glad, I'm not pissed. A little happy, could say...
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Some of the best racing stories come from wrecks, blow-ups, etc.... LOL. And you learn, and find out what you did well.... or what to not ever do again.
 
stixx said:
Same here, that is less wall than a decent sleeve.
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That wall thickness looks grate! compared to my .060 over 340 that i dropped a valve in and found a paper thin cyl wall(Major core shift)
I don't think there is a single block out there that don't have some core shift in them.

Appreciate you sharing your carnage with us.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
SSG_Karg said:
That was a whole lot of motor for those little tires! Did it actually hook? What clutch do you run?
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Center force dual friction, best off the shelf clutch I've had. Southland clutch can build one for whatever you're doing if you need more.
Note the roller pilot, ohio 4" nodular iron cranks dont't come drilled for std trans, opt that if you use them or lop off "1/2 of the input and run a register bearing like I do. -20 bucks.
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nm9stheham said:
Is that because of the problems in machining it out? Or the possibility of unseen damage?
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Seriously? It's a and or SBM. Just throw it away and get another. You think a sleeve with .093" wall or less supported at top and bottom only is a repair worth chasing? Not me. Just toss it. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
Seriously? It's a and or SBM. Just throw it away and get another. You think a sleeve with .093" wall or less supported at top and bottom only is a repair worth chasing? Not me. Just toss it. J.Rob
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Numbers motor? High dollar car?
 
Yeah, sleeve it. And maybe weld up the valley a little bit?

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AJ/FormS said:
Whoa! How did the pin come to look like that?
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Well if I had to guess... I'd say that once the piston started coming apart...the rod had to beat the **** out of all of the the chunks of pin boss hanging on and bits of it passing by...when they got out of the way...it popped a nice little hole somewhere just above the middle probably... once that Rod came back around it hit that hole and just chiseled it's ******* way right up to the top of the bore.lol
Almost half of the cylinder is missing!

There is only maybe 1.65 of wall left at the top of the bore. The rod is bent from its mining the cylinder wall.

Crank journals look perfect, but I'm checking for straightness!
 
Chip at Ohio crankshaft found me a single rod , he matched the job number balance ticket and found one within a gram n a half. Itll be here any day. 75 bucks.
Here's the old.

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1Fast340 said:
Thats some good service !
Btw its intresting to see how beat up that piston pin is.
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I highly recommend them.
The rod at impact had a ton of angularity@90*! Lol "I"beam would have been broke n out the pan...and why I reccomend h beams for over 500hp or over 7500rpm.
People from all over the place send me their heads ....I'm on the other side of the country and I'm buying from ohio..lol.When it's a good thing... it's a good thing.
This ohio kit used to advertise for 950.00 in mopar muscle...back when you would see National drivetrain ads and bouchlin performance, glen oaks.etc..

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Update ....
So when I look at these couple pieces of cylinder wall...I notice the one piece had dark rust ish color at one side of the faults/fractures. All the other sides are grey like you would expect from broken iron. Got me thinking...
upon inspecting the carburetor......i found the throttle shaft bushing is shot on the cable/drivers side and wobbles around, a lot.. Maybe some of you remember me posting about a wondering idle after high rpm wot blasts? Well the idle would drop down, I'd chase it...adjusting speed/mix and changing spacer gaskets and finally ditched the spacer and it seemed to not do it anymore.
So I'm pondering.....
only 1 piston popped..
The piston closest to the leaky throttle shaft, no.5...
That one pistons cylinder wall looks like it may have cracked or had a fault 'coolant side' of wall, maybe it was there all the while or maybe the cylinder cracked when it lean spiked/pinged here and there....
Only one piston, out of 8 with ALL OTHERS SHOWING NO SIGN OF DETONATION., no pits, clean spots outside of quench areas etc...
I pride myself in my tuning ability, lack of failures of this type. Though I'm not perfect...but I'm starting to ponder that it wasnt directly lean jetting by itself, maybe helped or not... and maybe the cylinder wall just gave out due to...a crack, lean from the shaft leak... anything related.


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IMHO, those are good observations. Nothing else comes to mind off the top of my head to explain that discoloration, especially with the grey break areas right beside it. Any coolant usage in this engine?

And the bushing and related issues makes sense. Thanks for sharing the info.
 
Mopar official, there is a large contingent of people that want to forge knives and swords-you could sell that bent rod, arp 2000 rod bolts, etc., and all the others that could accumulate in your path. Those guys want quality metal. The experienced guys would understand the value of the metallurgy you have. Maybe you or someone you know could help you re-coop a few bucks.
 
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