Where can I find correct LCA Bump Stops? Don't tell me CHINA!

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Hyper_pak

Hyper_pak

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I need a set of correct lower control arm bump stop bumpers. I have a set I wasted money on that have no way of getting them tight. They need the slotted studs that drop into the slots. I don't want poly if I can help it. And how do you guys draw the strut rod bushings into the K Frame? I have the one piece style. When I coat them with lube they go every way but in the hole. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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I have some good used originals, PM me if your interested
 
Hyper_pak said:
I need a set of correct lower control arm bump stop bumpers. I have a set I wasted money on that have no way of getting them tight. They need the slotted studs that drop into the slots. I don't want poly if I can help it. And how do you guys draw the strut rod bushings into the K Frame? I have the one piece style. When I coat them with lube they go every way but in the hole. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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No lube on those bushings, put them in dry...from the front..of course before the strut rods go in...
 
I just shove them in the hole, with a large screw driver. I have several done this way, the only ones I use, never had a problem....this type..
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I put a set of poly one-piece strut rod bushings in my old '67 Barracuda fastback. That was a torture I never want to encounter again...

As far as LCA bumpers. I don't think any have been made for years that have the correct stud.
 
What do you mean by you can't get them "tight"?
The stud is threaded all the way down to the molded rubber, and the nut will tighten down all the way.
Been using those rebound bumpers on all of my LCA's in my suspension rebuilding, when needed, and can't figure out your problem, (question)

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Yeah I don't get it either. Maybe hold the rubber squared with channel locks. Hit the nut with a impact and socket.
 
RedFish said:
Yeah I don't get it either. Maybe hold the rubber squared with channel locks. Hit the nut with a impact and socket.
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I'me Right handed, so all that i ever had to do is hold down the rebound bumper in the position that i want, with my left hand, then ratchet away, with my right.
Easy, peasy.
 
Usually the new nut that’s provided is a nylock nut, so sometimes it can be a little harder to hold the bumper because there’s resistance the whole way. If you use a plain nut and lock washer it’s a lot easier, since the bumper won’t want to spin until the last couple threads.

The other thing, and you can see it in hemi71x’s picture, is that flange on the LCA is usually enough to keep the stock style bumpstops from spinning. Just tighten it down and then adjust the angle if it bugs you.

I use poly button head style bumpstops on my cars, so they’re round and harder to grab on to. It’s not that big of a deal, I just hold them with a set of channel locks and use a 1/4” dewalt driver to tighten the nut.
 
The bolt/stud is turning IN the rubber, I can hold the rubber all day long and it won't tighten up. I could try the plain nut and lock washer but the rubber still might turn because there is no positive connection from the bolt/stud to the rubber part. Is that clearer?
I don't know the part number on the strut rod bushings but I think the blunt tool pushing around the ridge should get them in, I was close with what I was doing, but couldn't get that last little bit to go in.
 
Then you have a defective, improperly molded, manufactured, rebound bumper.
Bring them back to the parts store, and get other ones.

(And by the way, you didn't say ANYTHING about the stud turning in the molded rubber, in your first post.)
 
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Energy Suspension have got the poly type, Good web site that have the pictures of the type your after with prices. Excellent service
 
Thanks for the help.
I made a tool to draw the bushings in. Worked perfect.
I used lock washers and nuts with an impact to get the Bump Stops tight.

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I am having the same problem with the LCA and the UCA bump stops. The universals only have a stud that goes into the rubber, so it eventually turns the rubber as you tighten it. The OEM Bump stops have a square base, just like a bumper bolt, so you can torque it in there correctly. PST suspension used to make them, but no longer. I cannot find the OEM ones with the square base anywhere.
 
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