Which "drag race" master cylinder?

-

Johnny Mac

www.blueprintengines.com
FABO Vendor
Joined
Jul 10, 2010
Messages
4,333
Reaction score
4,819
Location
OHIO
Hey fellas,

wondering if anyone can tell me an application or PN for the common master cylinder(s) that are common for drag cars.

i know there is a late 70's/mid 80's chrysler master cylinder that is cheap and typically used for quick disc/drum cars. so far i've come up with bendix 11822. for a cordoba, fifth ave, or similar. is this what anyone else is using? beats the hell out of a $100+ wilwood that is just a pretty version of the same 1 1/16 bore, aluminum base, master cyl.

thank you in advance!

Johnny Mac
 
thanks, i thought anything less than 1 1/8 would be suitable for wilwoods on the front, and the factory style large drums on the rears (thats what wilwoods one offering is anyways). but maybe i'll look into the dr diff... i was assuming someone would be like "yup, run one off a 89 fifth ave and call it a day" lol thanks
 
thanks, i thought anything less than 1 1/8 would be suitable for wilwoods on the front, and the factory style large drums on the rears (thats what wilwoods one offering is anyways). but maybe i'll look into the dr diff... i was assuming someone would be like "yup, run one off a 89 fifth ave and call it a day" lol thanks

I would call Wildwood and ask them to be sure, they may "like" a bigger bore with theirs. I have been searching for the one that mimics the Dr. Diff one, but haven't been able to find it. I think he custom makes em.
 
1822 and 11822 are for power brake applications
1821 and 11821 are for manual brake applications

Both are listed for 1978 Dodge Aspen. These and similar numbers are used by several of the companies that these are labeled for. I have the manual brake version reman. by Cardone on my Dart with OEM discs, but I don't know which proportioning valve is on it or what the difference in "feel" would be between the manual and power versions.

I'm pretty sure that 1860 and 11860 are for a Dodge p/u manual brake application and will have a bigger bore.

Sorry I don't have more details. Wouldn't hurt to double-check.
They may not come with a reservoir, but those can be gotten from a U-Pull-It. Truck versions have a bigger capacity and can be made to fit a passenger car master cylinder by modifying a tab or two on the underside of the reservoir.
 
Rememer, you will need the 4-2 bolt adapter to run that MC. If I remember right they were $50-$75.
So if you do the math, Dr Diff isnt that bad of a deal.

PS: Ill be your huckleberry. Run one off a 5th Avenue, youll be fine.
 
Rememer, you will need the 4-2 bolt adapter to run that MC. If I remember right they were $50-$75.
So if you do the math, Dr Diff isnt that bad of a deal.

PS: Ill be your huckleberry. Run one off a 5th Avenue, youll be fine.


The 1 1/32" bore isn't a chore on the leg with manual brakes? Are you speaking from experience?
 
My brake bracket is actually drilled for a 2 or 4 bolt setup. As ironic as it is, I kinda wanna make sure its aluminum I guess the little extra cash is worth aluminum vs cast iron. But if I can source the oem chrysler one for 40 opposed to 100... probably going tha route. I found another eBay one for 40. Claiming cast aluminum. 1 1/32
 
Rememer, you will need the 4-2 bolt adapter to run that MC. If I remember right they were $50-$75.
So if you do the math, Dr Diff isnt that bad of a deal.

PS: Ill be your huckleberry. Run one off a 5th Avenue, youll be fine.

You could skip the adapter and just drill two holes through the firewall and nut and bolt the master cyl between the 4 studs.
 
[/COLOR]

The 1 1/32" bore isn't a chore on the leg with manual brakes? Are you speaking from experience?

Arent we talking abouut disc/drum brakes ?

Lets face it, we are talking about 40+ year old cars here. None of them are going to stop like todays cars
The only difference in the different bore sizes is going to be the amount of pressure its going to take
to push the brake pedal.

If you want to get all wrapped up in it, they do have different bore sizes in that particular MC .
Choose your size, and bolt it on.

I choose not to get all wrapped into it.
You can grab an aluminum MC (which came in about 50 different Mopars) and bolt it in.
My money says the difference in pedal feel would be very minimal, if any.

.02
 
The problem with that master is the brake fluid reservoir.
See how it slopes down in the front ?
Get one that is level all the way across.
 
Why is that necessarily a problem? Just fluid capacity?
 
You'll need to check the application. I believe some early Dakota M/C's had that reservoir and may have had smaller bores. Some FWD cars also used the sloped reservoir and I've heard conflicting opinions on using them in RWD drag applications. Disc brakes are suppose to like bigger bores because of the higher fluid capacity calipers.
 
Why is that necessarily a problem? Just fluid capacity?

Its been awhile, but I believe it was either less fluid capacity, or a pain in the *** to fill it, spillage.
Something along those lines. Get the level one.:glasses7:
 
Arent we talking abouut disc/drum brakes ?

Lets face it, we are talking about 40+ year old cars here. None of them are going to stop like todays cars
The only difference in the different bore sizes is going to be the amount of pressure its going to take
to push the brake pedal.

If you want to get all wrapped up in it, they do have different bore sizes in that particular MC .
Choose your size, and bolt it on.

I choose not to get all wrapped into it.
You can grab an aluminum MC (which came in about 50 different Mopars) and bolt it in.
My money says the difference in pedal feel would be very minimal, if any.

.02

Whoa... I wasn't trying to get "all wrapped up" in anything... I also didn't say it was going to stop like today cars... All I was asking was how the pedal effort was with a 1 1/32" bore compared to 15/16"

15/16 seems to be the choice among most on here. Just trying to offer a different perspective for the OP
 
for anyone comparing specs down the road...here is the wilwood... vs the centric.
http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-4893

http://centriccatalog.com/Inquiry/viewDetails.aspx?p=130.63028&a=1512429&ic=1&i=1&

that centric is avail everywhere for $40. and i'm not so sure that 1 1/6 bore vs the 1 1/32 bore is even an actual difference. .03125?....that may even be the Od of the piston, vs the ID of the cylinder difference. wilwood even refers to it as a "chrysler type" fyi the centric is also cast aluminum. the wilwood may be polished a little prettier, but i'm fine with "as cast" for a savings of $70
 
Whoa... I wasn't trying to get "all wrapped up" in anything... I also didn't say it was going to stop like today cars... All I was asking was how the pedal effort was with a 1 1/32" bore compared to 15/16"

15/16 seems to be the choice among most on here. Just trying to offer a different perspective for the OP

" Getting wrapped up in it " wasnt directed at you, sorry you took it that way.
What I was trying to say, was as a whole, many people get all wrapped up in the bore thing.

I have used different disc MC's, and in my experience, they all feel the same.
 
My last one was a cast iron, large bore for power brakes. It just looks out of place and I want a new one. Pedal was hard, but stopped just fine.
 
-
Back
Top