Who makes good paint?

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Richie

Richie

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Hi everybody:

I want to paint my car F6 again. I was wondering witch companies are popular with everyone? The only one I know that's good is PPG.
 
I always preffered DuPont and I have also had good luck with house of color.
 
I would research Omni, which is a lower line of PPG if I were you, Richie.
Also, I would go with basecoat/clearcoat if I were you.
Are you going to paint it yourself or are you going to farm it out?
If you are going to farm it out, the shop you go with will have their own preference.
I also had good luck with Dupont, I painted a '71 Duster basin street blue with acrylic enamel back in the day and it turned out awesome.
Paint and materials aren't cheap though, get ready for a big shock when you price it out!
 
Dartnut said:
I would research Omni, which is a lower line of PPG if I were you, Richie.
Also, I would go with basecoat/clearcoat if I were you.
Are you going to paint it yourself or are you going to farm it out?
If you are going to farm it out, the shop you go with will have their own preference.
I also had good luck with Dupont, I painted a '71 Duster basin street blue with acrylic enamel back in the day and it turned out awesome.
Paint and materials aren't cheap though, get ready for a big shock when you price it out!
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I know a guy who did my friends 70 C-10 pickup. Beautiful job. He was a body man before he started his plumbing biz so he would be my first choice to do the car. They rented out a booth at Maco one afternoon after all of the preparation witch he and Mark spent months doing
 
What you oughta ask is who makes crappy paint, and why. That question would probably solicit pretty useful information.
 
A dead ringer for cheap paint is to look at their black paint. Good black paint looks black (blue black), cheap black next to it looks brown.

Best paint you can buy is Spies Hecker.

x2 about using base/clear.
 
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My car was painted a long time ago, it was done in a one stage. I have it at the Detailers right now, they just finished the wet sand and the buff. They said the one stage is a lot better from their point of view, they were able to get all the body work scratches / imperfections out. These are the ones that appear over time, they do not show up for years. They were able to get everything out, they said with base coat clear coat, that is not possible. Just presenting a alternate opinion.

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Kraftei said:
My car was painted a long time ago, it was done in a one stage. I have it at the Detailers right now, they just finished the wet sand and the buff. They said the one stage is a lot better from their point of view, they were able to get all the body work scratches / imperfections out. These are the ones that appear over time, they do not show up for years. They were able to get everything out, they said with base coat clear coat, that is not possible. Just presenting a alternate opinion.

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Not going to work on metallic paint. Straight color is fine in single stage. metallics.. once and done it the motto there , that is one of the reason for BC/CC .
 
Richie said:
Hi everybody:

I want to paint my car F6 again. I was wondering witch companies are popular with everyone? The only one I know that's good is PPG.
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Motobase. Look up Chads paint when we painted my son’s car I looked at a lot of suppliers some say use a lower grade shop base paint and we did the 1st time painting my son’s car it looked good. when I found (SPI Primers) Berry the owner of Spi recommend motobase sold by chads paints said it would be as close to the original B5 Blue the other choice would be PPG top of their line.
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the motobase was a bunch cheaper than ppg and it is a good paint to spray.
 
PPG has a shop line base/clear it is reasonable as far as paint goes.
 
I did my Duster in Cromabase f6 with SPI clear. Also used the SPI epoxy and 2k primers.

duster 10-19-19 008.JPG
 
Unless you are a professional painter you'll probably never really notice any differences between any good base/clear line of paint. All reputable paint companies have their ups and downs but like I stated most amateur painters couldn't tell you the difference. Also most paints are meant for PRODUCTION not complete paint jobs. This will mostly be noticed with clear coats. Also most production clears are not going to look "restoration" quality when done. They are made to have orange peel to match factory texture (oem finishes suck) and be for small panel amounts like 2-3 on average.

When it comes to economy paint lines like Omni you will want to watch the amount of product you need... I've found with omni the colors are very transparent because the toners they use do not have the pigments of a higher line paint. This translates to you using double the amount of product negating the cost "savings"

If you decide on a solid color a single stage paint can be a good economical choice but remember repairability is more difficult. For an amateur paints base/clear systems are easiest to use.

Some of the best paint systems I've used include

Glasurit
RM
PPG DBC
Spies Hecker
Sikkens

A lot of paint products now are under the umbrella Axalta (Spies,Dupont)
 
If you can afford Name Brand paint (PPG, Dupont, Sikkens, etc.) then by all means buy it. I agree with what @67Dart440GT that an amateur painter might not notice much difference between good paint and cheaper paint. However, name brand paint is very expensive. I found a source of excellent quality cheaper paint. TCP Global has their own house brand of paint that they can mix in any color any year. I used their paint on my 69 Barracuda 5 years ago. I found that it sprayed, covered, and polished out as good as any name brand paint I have ever used. They are a PPG dealer, so I am guessing that the paint is PPG or Omni. Here is a link to them. www.autocolorlibrary.com/pages/1970-Dodge.html
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I feel top coat to be most important for Durability and fading. You could use Omni Base coat to save $$ then PPG , Dupont or other Quality Clear. The main reason I like PPG is their DP Primers , it has good adhesion and acid etching for bare metal (rust protection) properties and special hardener for plastic bumpers . Use could still use DP and use a cheaper 2 part filler primer like (Trans star) to get your bodywork blocked out.
 
On the single stage vs. base clear. As mentioned, if you have a metallic color your are screwed. You spray it and it is as is, forever. With non-metallic it's an option, albeit an economy one.

As far as base goes, while quality isn't really the topic when talking base, color is. again, look at a cheap black vs. a quality black. You'll be looking at a brown car. PPP line Omni Code 99 black is actually brown. Dark *** brown.

As far as top coat, this is where you want to drop your coin and not skimp. This is your protectant and durability.


Another option no one mentioned is multi coat single stage with progressive amounts of clear added. Unsure if you guys have ever done this or seen it done but it's one of the deepest paint jobs you'll ever see. Will NOT work with metalics.
 
roccodart440 said:
Another option no one mentioned is multi coat single stage with progressive amounts of clear added. Unsure if you guys have ever done this or seen it done but it's one of the deepest paint jobs you'll ever see. Will NOT work with metalics.
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A friend of mine use to do that with great results. I also new a guy in the 80's that would heat a gallon of Acrylic Enamel on a hot plate (scary ****) with hardener mixed in. It would stay thin enough to spray without thinner. His paint jobs were unbelievable! One night he forgot to shut off the hot plate when done and burn't down his garage !
 
Ive seen so many newer cars with horendous factory clear coat cancer that it scares me. I would use a single stage and just keep it covered and waxed. Ive seen 50 year old cars with factory paint still on them buff out and wax nicely. I think the clears today are made for the 20 year disposable cars that they are sprayed on, and some jobs dont even last that long. Good luck.
 
Kendog 170 said:
A friend of mine use to do that with great results. I also new a guy in the 80's that would heat a gallon of Acrylic Enamel on a hot plate (scary ****) with hardener mixed in. It would stay thin enough to spray without thinner. His paint jobs were unbelievable! One night he forgot to shut off the hot plate when done and burn't down his garage !
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Remember hot laquer paint jobs? They actually had heaters for doing it
 
Dp primers were great before they removed the lead. Dplf is quite transparent especially the white. I still liked using it just not as well. In my opinion there are far better options now than Dplf. Most newer epoxy primers are now sandable where Dplf is not.

I used to mix the clear additive with PPGs 9800 in the 90s with good results but as stated only good for solid colors. In my opinion if you want clear coat depth just go base clear and be done with it.

The Dp 402lf is the normal catalyst you'd use. The 401lf suggested above for plastics was no different other than a slower dry time and also required a 30 minute induction time. The only reason it was suggested for plastics is it allowed it to be flexible for installation. Dplf dries pretty slow and has a 72 hour pot life and I never used the 401 as it is very slow.
 
pishta said:
Ive seen so many newer cars with horendous factory clear coat cancer that it scares me. I would use a single stage and just keep it covered and waxed. Ive seen 50 year old cars with factory paint still on them buff out and wax nicely. I think the clears today are made for the 20 year disposable cars that they are sprayed on, and some jobs dont even last that long. Good luck.
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Park behind a Chevy truck sometime. The orange peel on the tail gate is so bad you can't see your headlight reflection! Newer clears made for production are like spraying super glue. Also when it comes to durability the uv protection is usually built into the catalyst for the clear not the clear itself. Most companies offer "glamor" clears that are made for high end look and usability but you will pay out the nose for it. I've also sprayed some low end clears that in my opinion responded better than the high end stuff... But being in the turn over world you rarely see the vehicle 5 years or more down the road.
 
67Dart440GT said:
I used to mix the clear additive with PPGs 9800 in the 90s with good results but as stated only good for solid colors. In my opinion if you want clear coat depth just go base clear and be done with it.
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I painted my Black Ragtop with PPG Concept. Love it.
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