Who makes the best oil pan gasket??

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4spdragtop

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I installed the cork pieces for the oil pan on dads 273 and it spits it out the sides, Im hoping the sealant holds everything in! Anyone make a neoprene one or something better then the felpro cork ones??

thanks
4spdragtop
 
It's more about installation than the product itself. If I tell you, it's just going to turn to some big debate So be prepared for a bunch of different opinions and advice. Okay here we go. NO Sealant on the Block side! None. On the Pan side, Use 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. Put a thin bead all the way around the outer edge of the Pan. About 1/8" wide and 1/4" from the edge. Circle each bolt hole as you come to it. Then immediately install the gasket on the pan making sure to align all the holes. Let it dry about 1/2 hour and install the pan following the torque sequence and specs. This is the way I was taught by whom I consider the finest technician on the planet. Butch Grabinsky. We always called th 3m adhesive "Gorilla Snot"
 
my installs consist of high temp permatex on both sides, and a torque wrench. no matter how you do it, make sure the bolt holes are flat with the pan rail and not bulged out from any over tightening. i tighten mine like i would torque an intake manifold ,back and forth from side to side, with a different torque spec each time. i forget what the pans bolts torque at....
 
I put permatex "right stuff" on pan and on block, then torqued down in increments...about 4 times...book says 15 ft lbs and it started to spit the cork out at about 10
 
What about Mr Gasket?? I believe that I could get them local...anyone have any experience with them?? Looks like they offer a composite type.
 
Did you check the pan rail for flatness, especially around the bolt holes? When I did mine I used sealant on the pan side, put the gasket in place and dropped the bolts in the holes from the gasket side to keep it lined up and let it sit overnight. Put it on the next day no issues.

Cork gaskets are a bit of a pain, and can't be rushed. I also do the same thing with valve cover gaskets. Then a light smear of grease or never sieze on the head rail all the way around, that way if you need to pull the cover it ain't stuck.
 
there is no better pan gasget than felpro cork when installed properlly
 
I installed the cork pieces for the oil pan on dads 273 and it spits it out the sides, Im hoping the sealant holds everything in! Anyone make a neoprene one or something better then the felpro cork ones??

thanks
4spdragtop

The victor reinz pan gaskets, when it comes to cork, are imo the best. they are denser.
Milodon makes a nice composite pan gasket as well, not as soft...but will definitely not squish out the sides when torqued.
 
Have used Mr Gasket cork gaskets numerous time..with some blue RTV...no leakie...
 
Maybe I should have let the Permatex setup over night like badsport said..I'll go get another one tomorrow and see how things work out
 
And do check the bolt holes to make sure they aren't humped up. Sometimes they get raised up in that area from tightening the bolts, especially if someone re-torqued them in the past because they were loose. That will allow that small area to tighten sooner than the rest of the pan rail.
 
And do check the bolt holes to make sure they aren't humped up. Sometimes they get raised up in that area from tightening the bolts, especially if someone re-torqued them in the past because they were loose. That will allow that small area to tighten sooner than the rest of the pan rail.

I had checked them, but like everything else, looks like Im doing it twice!
 
So I ordered up a new gasket, will be in Saturday, in the meantime Im trying to make the pan more level. I will install with no goop on the block, BUT whats yer opinions on putting a thin bead of goop on the rear main cap, as well as on the bottom of the timing chain cover?? Im thinking just a thin smear....
 
I don't think it would necessarily hurt anything, there are rubber gaskets there right?

Also be sure and put some lube on the crank seal in the cover to avoid a "dry start".
 
I don't think it would necessarily hurt anything, there are rubber gaskets there right?

Also be sure and put some lube on the crank seal in the cover to avoid a "dry start".

Yep rubber there, why I was thinking that is cuz the bottom of the timing cover doesnt mount 100% flush with the bottom of the block...and I lubed the seal too...dry starts are never good :la:
 
to me

no rail gasket at all !!!!!!!!!!!!!
only use the end rubber gasket
on the rail side I used ferd diesel silicone
it s the thicker silicone I saw
ferd do the same on there 7.3 power stroke for years
never hade probleme except on the damn rear main seal
 
Just picked up the op gasket, and going to try it again, one thing I forgot to mention, the cork pieces over lap the rubber end pieces slightly...should the cork be trimmed??

Thanks for all the input
4spdragtop
 
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