Why did someone splice into this IGN. 1 lead?

Electrical and Ignition

  1. Bronze Barracuda

    Bronze Barracuda Well-Known Member

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    I am repairing my original wire harness (68 barracuda). A little background. Wiring diagram shows 6 prongs on my ignition, mine only has 5?
    While restoring my harness I came across a purple with white trace wire heading to slot D on my instrument harness connector, as well as a blue with white trace wire heading through firewall to ignition coil resistor both spliced into IGN. 1 on my ignition switch. A previous owner spliced into the purple and white wire with a black wire, (about a foot long) with a ring connector on the end. Would anyone know why previous owner would have done this? Where would you suppose it went to? I think it is a live 12v wire so not a ground??
    I took a couple of pictures.

    15911500999194309366220878892373.jpg

    15911501613513870095550810654408.jpg
     
  2. scott657

    scott657 Well-Known Member

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    Voltmeter etc
     
  3. Bronze Barracuda

    Bronze Barracuda Well-Known Member

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    Come to think of it. I did remove an aftermarket volt meter and oil pressure gauge:thumbsup:

    Thanks that must've been it. I'll remove it. I redid the instrument cluster. Replaced the fuel gauge IVR with a solid state one from radio shack and a working oil pressure gauge.
    for a bodies only has some of the most helpful and knowledgeable people of any car forum I have been associated with.
    Thanks again.
     
  4. Demonracer

    Demonracer 71 Demon 00 Ram 16 Chrysler 300S 05 Caravan FABO Gold Member

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    Do you have a part number for the solid state IVR?
     
  5. Mattax

    Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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    Some changes between '67 and '68 but IIRC the connections are the same.
    I would check the colors against the '68 FSM or the pdf versions of the same.

    Ground is not used.
    upload_2020-6-3_0-15-50.png

    upload_2020-6-3_0-18-44.png

    Hot is Red. it is the power from the Battery and Alternator.
    I-1 (Run) and A (accessory) are hot when the key is in Run position.

    On '67 Barracuda the 18 ga blue with white is power to the brake warning light.
    16 ga blue with white is power to the ignition and regulator. That I know didn't change.
    upload_2020-6-3_0-28-16.png
     
  6. 4spdragtop

    4spdragtop FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Those connectors on ign switch are aftermarket. Make sure its ALL wired properly. Someone's been in there doing something. Easier now than later.
    A manual with proper schematics is a must if you dont have one. Dont repeat someone else's insanity.
    Good luck.
     
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    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      I will say I really like the open barrel terminals now that I've been using them.
      When crimped they really hold the wire well and support the insulation.
      PS. Steve. I found the nifty Astro interchangeable jaw crimper wasn't up to the task on some heavy ring terminals I'm using. The American wire copies of the packard crimper worked far easier. I only soldered that one repair in the photo because the wire strands had some damage. If there was any slack in the harness I would have cut it back. But I didn't want to strain it. Other option was to splice in a length of wire. 6 to one 1/2 dozen the other IMO
       
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      • kursplat

        kursplat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        here's a nice version of the 68' barracuda wiring harness made by @1969383S. you can turn the layers on / off
         

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        • 67Dart273

          67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          There are many reasons to splice into the IGN1 wire some of them not very good, others "OK" One is a tach. There are some add-ons that a person would not want powered in "accessory."
           
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          • Bronze Barracuda

            Bronze Barracuda Well-Known Member

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            Yes. Here is a link.
            The catalog number is 2761770
            I also used a small heat sink apparently they give off a good amount of heat when dropping the volts from 12 to 5

            5-Volt Regulator
             
          • 1969383S

            1969383S FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            These are traces from the original manual. Overlayed in Autocad from PDF then retraced in color. There is some human error that may apply by stitching the factory diagrams together.

            Please use and report Any issues so I can Revise them. If you find issues, it may be that you have mid/late year Changes or have harnesses that are over 50+ years Old that have been changed and or modified that effects things. Please keep this in mind.
             
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            • Bronze Barracuda

              Bronze Barracuda Well-Known Member

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              Yep I am just leaning the mysteries of auto electrical. It is a lot easier to learn when it is out of the car and laid out on a work bench.
              If you noticed in my first picture my ignition switch is missing the original harness clip. Tried finding one, are there any companies that make individual parts of the harness? I just want to replace or repair whatever I can on the original.
               
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              • Bronze Barracuda

                Bronze Barracuda Well-Known Member

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                Yep going through the whole thing with a fine toothed comb. and solder, mini files, disconnect tool, electrical tape and patience:thumbsup:
                 
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                • Bronze Barracuda

                  Bronze Barracuda Well-Known Member

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                  Nice!
                   
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                  • Mattax

                    Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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                    I sure did notice that. My suggestion is it will be easiest to get a switch connector from a bad harness someone is cuttting up for parts.
                    The original style terminals can be purchased from Mouser and other venders. Here's a thread on those:
                    Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals

                    Since the harness wrap is off, you have a lot more flexibility in making the repairs than I have. If you rewrap with tape, look for a version made with little to no adhesive. I've bought from year one but there are other sources.

                    The photos in post 5 show the accessory wire terminal replaced. The insulation was rock hard from heat damage. Definately best to have every wire strand crimped and then some form of support for the insulation.

                    Shrink tubing is my prefered 'go to' for covering exposed wire.
                     
                    Last edited: Jun 3, 2020
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