WHY?

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Trying to decide if i should put the gaskets on dry or with the gasgacinch..Just want it to seal this time for sure. The gaskets are 25.00 and if it still doesnt seal and i have to take it back apart, i dont want the gaskets to be ruined, but at the same time, if using the gasgacinch increases the odds that it WILL seal by a lot, then i would like to use it..
well, there is a problem, why would you reuse a torqued intake gasket.
 
yep , I'm that guy. I've been switching back and forth between an aluminum tunnel ram and an Edelbrock 7193 intake on my 440 for the last 4 years and not once have I used any gaskets other than the valley pan. I use JB weld gray gasket sealer on the bottom of the pan and block ,all the way around, and then around the ports on the top side and intake. torqued to 40 lbs, never a leak. I've even reused the valley pan a couple times, but every second pull , I get a new one
 
yep , I'm that guy. I've been switching back and forth between an aluminum tunnel ram and an Edelbrock 7193 intake on my 440 for the last 4 years and not once have I used any gaskets other than the valley pan. I use JB weld gray gasket sealer on the bottom of the pan and block ,all the way around, and then around the ports on the top side and intake. torqued to 40 lbs, never a leak.

You're always that guy. LOL
 
Im going to try that..Do i use them on BOTH sides of the valley tray or just the intake side or? Also,curious as to why some say aluminum intakes need the paper gaskets to seal? Im asking because i want to learn why..not being a smart butt.
The expansion rate of aluminum is greater than that of steel, simple physics. It moves more than the steel.
 
The expansion rate of aluminum is greater than that of steel, simple physics. It moves more than the steel.
That makes sense after the car has run for a few minutes and gotten warm, but it leaked as soon as the engine fired up..
 
That makes sense after the car has run for a few minutes and gotten warm, but it leaked as soon as the engine fired up..
I used a steel gasket a few years back when changing the manifold on my truck from cast to aluminum, because it was what I had.
It also leaked upon start up, composite paper gasket took care of the issue.
 
another question while on this subject, how can i block the heat crossovers while i have this thing apart?
 
another question while on this subject, how can i block the heat crossovers while i have this thing apart?

I would not recommend that. That cross over is a key element in helping the carburetor to atomize fuel. It will also make the engine very cold natured.
 
I would not recommend that. That cross over is a key element in helping the carburetor to atomize fuel. It will also make the engine very cold natured.
oh! I always here people on these forums say to block them to keep from boiling the fuel in the carb and for better performance..
 
oh! I always here people on these forums say to block them to keep from boiling the fuel in the carb and for better performance..

That's what insulator gaskets are for. The real thick carburetor mounting gaskets.
 
Got these gaskets today and gaskacinched them to both sides of the valley pan. SO, on the end rails, i know you use RTV on each corner where the block meets the head, BUT, do you also use RTV, the right stuff, etc sealer along the whole rail?

I do yes. On both sides of the pan. My 351M in my Ford truck uses a pan. That's how I did it and it doesn't leak. Don't be conservative with the RTV. You can always wipe excess off, but if you don't use enough, it'll leak.
 
I give up guys! I just give up! I put gaskets on both sides of the tray, made sure the intake wasnt hitting the hold down straps and STILL, same thing! Its better this time because before it wouldnt even stay running part throttle, where it will now, but it will NOT idle below about 1800 rpm..still leaking along the drivers side ports..maybe passenger also, i was too upset to even check. You know, ive been wanting an intake for the 25 years ive owned the damn car and finally get one and it refuses to work! Is there anyone on here that ports stock iron intakes? Thats about my only choice i guess if i choose to keep the car.
 
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I would not recommend that. That cross over is a key element in helping the carburetor to atomize fuel. It will also make the engine very cold natured.
I have run the Fel Pro 1215 intake valley pan ever since my first 440 in 2002. California weather, no snow. Tennessee ? Unless you are in the upper East corner, your weather is similar.
I always use paper gaskets on both sides of the valley tin. I currently have thick head gaskets on the engine so I use a Mr Gasket super thick intake gasket to make everything align right.
 
I have run the Fel Pro 1215 intake valley pan ever since my first 440 in 2002. California weather, no snow. Tennessee ? Unless you are in the upper East corner, your weather is similar.
I always use paper gaskets on both sides of the valley tin. I currently have thick head gaskets on the engine so I use a Mr Gasket super thick intake gasket to make everything align right.

Tennessee gets some snow, slick. I hate to tell you. I have friends in the west, middle and east in Tennessee and they all see some snow and cold every winter. Trust me. It ain't just the upper east corner. I bet Leanna @CudaChick1968 wishes it was. lol
 
Don't say that. I am thinking of retiring there and I don't like snow. I have looked at weather reports that claim similar climate to ours here in Northern CA. I hope that isn't fake news!
I wouldn't mind some snow that melts off quickly but I am not about to live where it builds up!
 
Ah, stop your crying ! Just come to Hawaii ! We need more Mopar owners here ! HAha C
 
I give up guys! I just give up! I put gaskets on both sides of the tray, made sure the intake wasnt hitting the hold down straps and STILL, same thing! Its better this time because before it wouldnt even stay running part throttle, where it will now, but it will NOT idle below about 1800 rpm..still leaking along the drivers side ports..maybe passenger also, i was too upset to even check. You know, ive been wanting an intake for the 25 years ive owned the damn car and finally get one and it refuses to work! Is there anyone on here that ports stock iron intakes? Thats about my only choice i guess if i choose to keep the car.

Did you set the intake on the engine without gaskets? I do that with every intake to look at the gap and make sure the intake is at the same angle as the heads/engine.
 
Sounds to me like the intake has been milled. I’ve bought one that is a paper weight now due to this. I’ve ran aluminum intakes on my drag car with no extra gaskets for years. Just rtv it and go. However. The rtv needs time to set up. Don’t fire it 30 mins after you apply it.
 
Don't say that. I am thinking of retiring there and I don't like snow. I have looked at weather reports that claim similar climate to ours here in Northern CA. I hope that isn't fake news!
I wouldn't mind some snow that melts off quickly but I am not about to live where it builds up!
Lemme know when you move up there, Dog. I might just follow you... (Oops... maybe this belongs in another forum!). :lol:
 
Did you set the intake on the engine without gaskets? I do that with every intake to look at the gap and make sure the intake is at the same angle as the heads/engine.
I did but not sure how to tell how well it mates up.. Being the stock iron intake had no issues with nothing but the valley tray, wouldnt you say this aluminum intake is just bad?
 
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