Windage tray question for a stroker

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fishy68

fishy68

Tyr Fryr's Inc.
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What's everybody running for a windage tray on a SB stroker? Does the stock type fit ok? I looked at going with a Milodon but on Summit's site it says it's not clearanced for a stroker. Here's a link to the Milodon.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MIL-32230&FROM=MG

In the pic the Milodon doesn't look very much different from a stock tray except the louvers are a little different but I don't have them side by side for a true comparison.
 
Fishy,

I am using an "adjusted" stock unit on a 4" stroke motor. The issue I had was with 4 bolt mains - the clearance was fine for the crank.

Kory

Tray on Engine Final 1 (Small).jpg


Tray on Engine Final 2 (Small).jpg


Tray on Engine Try 1d (Small).jpg
 
Mine was tight, need slight modification has same issue, crank cleared OK. But since I went with a Kevco pan it has scrapers and baffles in the pan. The pan is deeper and the crank is out of the oil. So I ended up with no tray. I know some guys use spacers on the bolts and bend the tray it will fit.
 
The Milodon tray fits nicely with just a little mod to clear the pickup I used.
Cleared the crank, no problem, just installed it last weekend.
 
Thanks alot for all the replies. I kinda figured a stock one would work if some mods would be made. Wasn't sure on the milodon though. I've been thinking about using the Kevco pan also so I wouldn't need a tray but money's tight so I may not be able to do that. Hopefully I can sell some stuff to help out.

Thanks again for the info guys.
 
Fishy,

The book "How to Build Big Inch Stroker Small Blocks" by Jim Szilagyi says that P4529790 is not even recommended for 360 stroke cranks even though it will fit if modified. The reason given is that crankcase pressures get sent through the roof. No other option is given. No windage tray is used on any of his 9 builds either but a Moroso 20730 pan is used.

Enough screwing around, lol! I gotta my own pan on now. :) Old cam will be on it's way monday.
 
Ok. I have that book and read it a long time ago but didn't remember that part. :read2:I'll have a look again. If I don't buy a new Milodon tray that'll leave money to pay for part of the cost of a good pan with baffles so I won't need the tray. Still about $120 more is required though. Man this HP greed gets into the wallet deeper all the time.:-D
 
The Milodon doesn't cover the front crank sections but no oil is there anyway. Also, the Milodon mounts on #3 and #4 main caps where as the stock tray mounts on #2 and #4 caps. I had my machine shop install ARP Main Studs, part# 240-5501, which has longer studs for the caps where the tray is to be installed. With the ARP studs the tray can be lowered or raised because it gets sandwiched between two nuts on the studs so you can adjust the height. How much clearance you need depends on the rods. With the Scat cap screw rods they don't stick out much.

In the end I went with the Kevco 6 quart pan and probably won't run a tray because it has the built in scraper and baffles. I think the tie breaker for me was the 1 extra quart which will allow the oil to run slightly cooler. Here is a picture of my Kevco 6 quart:

OilPanBaffle1.jpg
 
Thanks again for the input Bill. That Kevco pan sure looks nice. I didn't know it also had a crank scraper too. I think I'll just go with it and nix the idea of using a tray. I'm also studding the mains so if I don't use a tray I won't have to get the higher priced studs that are made for use with a tray. I think there's over $15 difference in them so that's $15 closer than I was.

BTW: Do you know how deep that Kevco pan is right off hand? I have a like new Milodon pickup for a 9" deep pan.
 
ramcharger said:
Here's the link for the Moroso pan. As you can see it keeps the oil way away from the crank and is baffled. http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=11956

Just a little more info so you can make an informed decision whichever you choose.

The afforementioned author said something about having to spread the pan to have it fit right too.
Click to expand...

I need to get that book out and read up on things again. The Moroso is a very nice pan also but if I remember right it hangs down 2 inches lower than the stock pan but I'll measure that tomorrow to see for sure. I live in a rural area and the roads aren't the best so I have to watch how far the pan hangs down.

Thanks for the link Joe.

Oh yeah, let me know how much you need for the shipping on that cam. I'm having a heck of a time finding a couple of good used cam bearings to use. I may have to use the new set I have which I hate to do because the block needs to be fully machined and hot tanked you so the bearings would be ruined.
 
No problem fishy. As far as cam bearings go, the ones in my spare block have flaked bad, so I don't think they do you any good. I don't have a puller/instaler either.
 
I bought a Kevco pan also. I spoke to them several times before purchasing the pan and they were very helpful. I forwarded the picture of the modified Milodon pan to clear the K member that John G. mailed me. They are even going to modify the corners a bit to clear my k-member .
(800) 770-3557
EMAIL
sales@kevkoracing.com
 
I called Kevco and yes they are very helpful. They make the pans right there on site. No junk shipped in from over seas.
 
ramcharger said:
No problem fishy. As far as cam bearings go, the ones in my spare block have flaked bad, so I don't think they do you any good. I don't have a puller/installer either.
Click to expand...

OK Joe no problem. I know how that goes too. I finally got a cam bearing tool. Man is it handy. Without one there's not really any way you can get them out and not destroy them. I figured it up and if you plan on just doing 4 engine rebuilds your better off buying a installer/remover since they charge $30 a pop to put new ones in. The one I have cost $125 from Northern and works like a champ. Does all kinds of engines too.
 
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