Wiring (Charging System)

[Riddler]

I'm collecting wiring supplies and getting ready to rewire my entire car. I'm using an AAW Power Plus 20 kit. Kit is pretty complete other than ground wire.

I'm working with Affordable Fuel Injection to have another vendor to supply engine wiring harnesses and the plan is to use HP Tuners.

Anyway I'd like to place the battery in the trunk and been reading a lot about this. I've found this diagram below and I like some the features about it.

1. I'm planning to use a Ford solenoid instead of the 14ga Fusable Link. I want to mount the battery in the trunk and have the solenoid mounted to the battery box. Then run a 1ga to the front.

2. I know Alternator light on the diagram won't be used. However the 2006 6.1L alternator has a pair of wires coming from it. Where do these wires go? I'm going to guess here and assume they go back to the engine wiring harness for the PCM to control the voltage.

3. The "Ground to doghouse" off the battery will be a ground wire running to the front of the car grounded to the unibody. I'll tie all the grounds from the car into this.

Does anyone see an issues with the diagram? Anyone have suggestions? My plan is to order everything needed by the end of the week. I want to try and get the car wired before the new year.

Thank you,

Riddler

 

[67Dart273]

I would seriously consider making it "NHRA compliant" even if you never plan to race. Crackedback has a good diagram for the disconnect, which will involve your starter / Ford setup, and I prefer a slightly different means. I use a heavy duty 4 terminal disconnect. They have 2 large and 2 small terminals, known properly as DPST (double pole, single throw) You use the small terminals to kill the ignition system or fuel pump (EFI) relay, and of course the large terminals in the main battery HOT lead

WHAT are you using for an alternator? That one is the old Delco 10/ 12SI of years ago and may not apply to yours. The factory Mopar EFI regulator is contained within the factory computer. So what for alternator, and that will set the wiring and whether or not you need an external voltage regulator

I'm not sure what all the relays? are for? But the main feed to / from the battery for both loads and charging is a no 10 and no 14 fuse link. That is probably too small depending on what all you "have"

Be careful with your main feed to your relays that you do not build a "single point of failure." In other words if one relay circuit has a really bad failure, you don't want to take out the main feed / fuse / or fuse link, leaving you sitting.

The alternator lamp, if that's what you really plan, is not fused. It would be a shame to burn up something and sit there "with nothing" all because of a shorted idiot lamp socket

If you are going to run the main ground "clear up front" I would not ground "the doghouse" at the battery. Rather, run a jumper from the engine block to the body, a BIG jumper, like no4 starter cable.

Stick or auto? What are you planning for neutral safety? "There exists" a Ford look alike solenoid with an extra terminal for that purpose. I'll have to look it up if you need. I can never find it, LOL. Was used on AMC /Jeep for a few years

 

[Riddler]

I would seriously consider making it "NHRA compliant" even if you never plan to race. Crackedback has a good diagram for the disconnect, which will involve your starter / Ford setup, and I prefer a slightly different means. I use a heavy duty 4 terminal disconnect. They have 2 large and 2 small terminals, known properly as DPST (double pole, single throw) You use the small terminals to kill the ignition system or fuel pump (EFI) relay, and of course the large terminals in the main battery HOT lead

WHAT are you using for an alternator? That one is the old Delco 10/ 12SI of years ago and may not apply to yours. The factory Mopar EFI regulator is contained within the factory computer. So what for alternator, and that will set the wiring and whether or not you need an external voltage regulator

I'm not sure what all the relays? are for? But the main feed to / from the battery for both loads and charging is a no 10 and no 14 fuse link. That is probably too small depending on what all you "have"

Be careful with your main feed to your relays that you do not build a "single point of failure." In other words if one relay circuit has a really bad failure, you don't want to take out the main feed / fuse / or fuse link, leaving you sitting.

The alternator lamp, if that's what you really plan, is not fused. It would be a shame to burn up something and sit there "with nothing" all because of a shorted idiot lamp socket

If you are going to run the main ground "clear up front" I would not ground "the doghouse" at the battery. Rather, run a jumper from the engine block to the body, a BIG jumper, like no4 starter cable.

Stick or auto? What are you planning for neutral safety? "There exists" a Ford look alike solenoid with an extra terminal for that purpose. I'll have to look it up if you need. I can never find it, LOL. Was used on AMC /Jeep for a few years

I'm using an optima battery whish is a sealed dry cell battery. So no need for a vented solution as the battery is a sealed unit. I really don't want a disconnect on the outside of the car as too many people mess with them at shows and such.

Within my post I talk about which alternator. In case it was missed it's a 2006 6.1L Hemi alternator. I already talked about removing the alternator light in my original post.

I thought running a ground wire from the battery all the way to the front of the car would be a great idea as it gives a good grounding. At least that's what I've read and been told. Instead of grounding each thing separate.

Finally I'm using a T56 manual transmission. I have a neutral safety switch and I like the idea of the Ford solenoid with the safety switch built in.

Thanks,

Riddler

 

[67Dart273]

The type of NSS you use will determine what you can / cannot use for a solenoid. Mopar originals are a single wire / ground, so you need something that duplicates the starter relay. If you can use a series 2 terminal switch, like aftermarket, you can use a standard Ford solenoid, which are cheaper.

If you are using the Mopar alternator, I BELIEVE they all need an external regulator. You can wire up the factory Mopar one used 70 / later.

What I'm planning for a disconnect, "prevents messing" and is also a measure of anti theft........Mount the switch inside the trunk. On member on here is simply going to unscrew the pushrod. I'm figuring on making a sliding sleeve arrangement, IE you can push the switch OFF but must open the trunk to turn it back on

About anti--theft..........with EFI, etc, you can easily add a small concealed switch to kill something like the EFI relay. It doesn't even need to be well hidden.........just not marked as such

 

[Riddler]

The type of NSS you use will determine what you can / cannot use for a solenoid. Mopar originals are a single wire / ground, so you need something that duplicates the starter relay. If you can use a series 2 terminal switch, like aftermarket, you can use a standard Ford solenoid, which are cheaper.

If you are using the Mopar alternator, I BELIEVE they all need an external regulator. You can wire up the factory Mopar one used 70 / later.

What I'm planning for a disconnect, "prevents messing" and is also a measure of anti theft........Mount the switch inside the trunk. On member on here is simply going to unscrew the pushrod. I'm figuring on making a sliding sleeve arrangement, IE you can push the switch OFF but must open the trunk to turn it back on

About anti--theft..........with EFI, etc, you can easily add a small concealed switch to kill something like the EFI relay. It doesn't even need to be well hidden.........just not marked as such

I'm using a Neon NSS. It's a switch that grounds out the starter so the car can be started. Heck I guess you could ground anything.... It's just a switch that gets pushed in and have 2 wires.

I'm not sure on the alternator but from what I've been reading most people are using an external regulator. I see most gen 3 hemi's are wired this way. I was just hoping that the PCM had the ability as well so I don't need an ugly regulator.

I really like the FORD Solenoid idea (or MAD electrical idea) where the power wire from the trunk isn't live(hot) until you start the car.

I guess I'll need to draw it all out and go from there. The charge/battery wiring is the only thing intimidating me right now.

Riddler

 

[cu440da]

I'm not sure on the alternator but from what I've been reading most people are using an external regulator. I see most gen 3 hemi's are wired this way. I was just hoping that the PCM had the ability as well so I don't need an ugly regulator.
Riddler

The factory PCM regulates the voltage. Not sure how the aftermarket controllers work that out.
Factory PCM also grounds the starter circuit eliminating the need for starter relay.