wiring diagram with ammeter bypass

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phaelax

phaelax

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I've had to do a fair bit of electrical work on my car since I got it. I drew my own diagram based on the old scans I've found online. I created a vector-based image for better scaling which will be used in a program I'm developing.

But in case anyone was interested, I've modified the original diagram to incorporate the the ammeter delete as described here (though I don't see the need for the wire to pass through the firewall twice): Catalog


http://zimnox.com/duster/wiring_diagram_altered.png
 
Nice drawing. Looks easier to follow than factory ones. I guess it doesn't hurt anything to leave the second wire hooked up, but no it does not appear to do anything. I know some put a volt gauge in place of amps. Does that use both wires or grab a local ground? One thing I don't get is the size of fusible links. 14 for charging and 16 to feed the entire electrical system? Are those just a piece of wire that gauge? I see that is not just yours, but called for in the MAD instructions. Just seems undersized. and why a 'fusible link' vs fuse or breaker?
 
zkx14 said:
Nice drawing. Looks easier to follow than factory ones. I guess it doesn't hurt anything to leave the second wire hooked up, but no it does not appear to do anything. I know some put a volt gauge in place of amps. Does that use both wires or grab a local ground? One thing I don't get is the size of fusible links. 14 for charging and 16 to feed the entire electrical system? Are those just a piece of wire that gauge? I see that is not just yours, but called for in the MAD instructions. Just seems undersized. and why a 'fusible link' vs fuse or breaker?
Click to expand...

I used 10ga run through vacuum tubing for extra insulation and an automatic resetting circuit breaker instead of fusible link.
Never a problem in 4 years of daily driving.
 
One thing I don't get is the size of fusible links. 14 for charging and 16 to feed the entire electrical system?
Click to expand...
Personally, I would ditch the fusible links altogether and use an inline fuse. Or use a breaker like TrailBeast.
I did the bypass on the side of the highway one night after my fusible link failed to do its job completely. Fried all sorts of wires together under the dash. Since mine was quick and dirty, it doesn't exactly follow that diagram. I have one wire from the alt to the relay and ran a second wire from the alt to the cabin.

I still need to update it to show the headlight relay upgrade.

Btw, if anyone sees a mistake or something I missed, please let me know.
 
Last edited:
phaelax said:
I still need to update it to show the headlight relay upgrade.
Click to expand...
The whole point of the ammeter bypass is to correct an undersized wiring problem, so seeing that link in there don't make sense to me. I really don't like the idea of a 'fuse' that could start a fire when it does what it was supposed to. So far, the only change I have made is the headlight relays. I ran 12 gauge just for those directly off the Alt with the 20 amp fuses from Dan Sterns kit. Cinnamon 75 Duster \ From what I found the 16gauge link is rated at 20amps, but seeing it in there powering everything including the headlights just doesn't seem right.
 
Didnt do the mad upgrade but haven't noticed any issues. I don't believe there is that much resistance in Chryslers original design but i could see why you would want to upgrade it especially if the wires are already shot. I did however replace the main fusible link with a 30 amp in line fuse. No issues for 4 years. Well except that one time where i had a voltage regulator go bad and the alt was climbing to 21 volts. Blew the fuse but no wires were damaged
 
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