Worried that LCA isn’t installed correct.

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering and Chassis' started by LovetheA's, Jul 9, 2018.

  1. LovetheA's

    LovetheA's FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Well I’m in the process of redoing all my 67 dart suspension. I just finished installing my passengers side LCA and new pst 1.03 torsion bars. I replaced the LCA bushing with polygraphite and I’m using greasable pivot shafts. I tried to set the LCA as close as possible to the other side so the ride height can be symmetrical.
    I’m not sure that I’m doing things the correct way so I figured I’d ask the experts.
    Is it necessary to try to get the lca’s as close as possible to each other when installing for symmetry? I should also mention that the car is supported under the front frame rails and all weight is off the suspension.
    It appears as if the passengers side LCA sits slightly higher than the drivers side. Also the torsion bar adjustment block and screw aren’t screwed in nearly as much as on the older side. The drivers side torsion bar and LCA as far as I know has never been changed. Could the difference in LCA height be because the pst bar is much thicker not requiring as much adjustment on the adjuster blot. Also how tight do I make the adjuster bolts on both sides before I set the car back down to check ride height?
    See pics included. Thanks

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    01F89920-36B9-42A1-9103-BF4BA6BD8266.jpeg
     
  2. LovetheA's

    LovetheA's FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Sorry I forgot to mention after looking at my front sway bar and how it mounts to the LCA I might have a problem. Because the passengers side LCA sits a little higher after installing the bigger pst bars the distance between the upper and lower connecting points on sway bar and LCA are closer.
    Even if I back down the adjuster bolt in the LCA all the way out, will that give me enough distance to fit in the connecting bolt and bushings?
    How would I install the new LCA sway bar connection without struggling?
    Sorry about all the questions.
     
  3. threewood

    threewood Well-Known Member

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    Don't tighten anything down until the full weight of the car, including engine, is on the front end. Then you can set ride height according to the manual.
     
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    • Bulldozer

      Bulldozer a.k.a. 73AbodEE

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      looks fine to me. trust me, if one was clocked wrong you would know it.. as three wood says , once you get it together and sitting on the ground, it will all come together when you start tightening it all up
       
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      • 72bluNblu

        72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        He's got poly LCA bushings, he can torque the LCA pivot pins whenever he wants, won't make a bit of difference.

        Totally agree. In order for the bars to be clocked wrong they'd have to be off by a full hex flat, which is a 60* difference. The adjusting levers appear to be at very similar angles, which means most of the difference is in the adjusters.

        Why is one LCA boxed and the other isn't?

        Also, you shouldn't install the end links until the car is sitting on the ground anyway. At that point it should be level and everything will be the same distance apart.
         
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        • AJ/FormS

          AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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          The UCA droop-stops control the droop,lol.
          If one side is higher than the other it would have to be; an issue with the upper stops, a twisted sway bar/short link, or a weird strut rod pull.
          Unless one of your T-bar adjusters is preloaded,while the other is not, and they both appear to have some preload at least.
           
          Last edited: Jul 9, 2018
        • 72bluNblu

          72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Oh good catch, he does have the shocks installed!

          Although really the upper bump stop should be controlling the droop, not the shock. That's why the bumpstops are there. And since the rest of the suspension is also hooked up, it should be hanging on the bumpstops. Between those and the shocks the difference isn't surprising at all.
           
        • AJ/FormS

          AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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          You caught me between editings,lol
           
        • 72bluNblu

          72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          I hate it when that happens! :p
           
        • rustycowll69

          rustycowll69 Well-Known Member

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          couple of observations, the left sway bar end link bolt is upside down, I think. And the RT torsion bar front hex socket looks rather dry. I always grease up the hexes, myself.
           
        • Frnknsteen

          Frnknsteen FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Can I ask a silly question?..... Why are you trying to level out the car with one new torsion bar and one old? Is there a reason you haven't installed both new PST torsion bars before trying to level things out and reattach the sway bar.

          What size is your old torsion bar that is still in the driver side? Not trying to question you, but I'm curious why you aren't putting both new bars in before trying to get everything leveled out. Not sure I'd even want to try to drive the car with a stock .8something" stock bar on one side and new PST 1.03" on the other.

          When I did mine on my '67, I replaced both at the same time (with Firm Feel 1" bars), then adjusted to have the correct ride height and so that it was level.

          Just curious.....
           
        • kursplat

          kursplat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          alleviates torque steer...
           
        • LovetheA's

          LovetheA's FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          I’m not tying to only replace one side I’m trying to replace all the suspension. I’ve only finished the LCA and the torsion bar replacement on the passenger side at this point. Also you guys and gals don’t miss a thing. I didn’t even think about the fact that I removed the passengers side shock and it is still installed on the drivers side. That would account for the slight difference in the LCA and the drivers side adjuster bolt still has full tension on it. The passengers side is only snugged tight at this point. The drivers side torsion bar as far as I know has never been replaced and the car is a 67 Dart. I’d say it’s long over due. By the way I greased the hell out of the torsion bar front mounting points and back before installing. Some of the grease squeezed out when installing and I wiped away the excess. I also fully greased the new greasable LCA pivot shaft. It sounds like I’m doing things correct. That puts me at ease.
           
        • LovetheA's

          LovetheA's FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          When do you guys install the sway bar connecting bars and bushings that go from the LCA to the sway bar? Before the car is lowered and ride height set or after?
           
        • MileHighDart

          MileHighDart FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          After you've lowered the car and adjusted the ride height to where you want it, then worry about your sway bar.

          p.s. they're called sway bar end links
           
        • AJ/FormS

          AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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          On a drive on hoist, I install or try to, at ride height.
          In my garage,laying on my back,my "chest" is too big to fit under there at ride height, so hanging it must be. But it is a little tricky cuz the angles are out to lunch.
          But yeah the threaded ends go in from the bottom, with the nuts on top, else you will snag them on something right quick.

          PS; where's your skid plate?
          Your pan looks to hang below the K.
          If it does, you might consider one,lol. With the 1.03 bars, You will start looking for the limits, and discover that you can lower the car a long,long, ways and and really plow into the turns, without smashing into the bumpstops. One day you will discover, that you have already been cornering ON the bumpstops, which is kindof fun, but there is no where for your pan to go when you hit a hole in mid turn. And that just wrecks your weekend, when the oil starts dripping on the pavement.
          But if the pan is tucked up, no worries.......
           
          Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
        • Frnknsteen

          Frnknsteen FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Ok, I was just curious why you were asking why you were sitting at different heights from side to side before you installed them both. To answer your question,.... yes,.... having different sized bars will definitely affect how level it is. That's why I was wondering why you were worried about it before changing both.

          Sounds like you are on the right path and installing them correctly. I think you will like the new bars in there. I put the 1" bars from Firm Feel in mine and I really like them. They are a little stiff on the rough back roads, but with the Bilstein shocks in there, they aren't near as harsh as when I had the KYB's. On smoother county roads and highways, it rides and handles great!
           
        • 72bluNblu

          72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Who on earth told you that?!

          That would be a stretch of the imagination on a FWD car. And even if that was a possibility, leaving flex in the LCA on the other side won’t help your cause any.
           
        • AJ/FormS

          AJ/FormS 367 FormS clone 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78od 3.55s

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          I thought that torque-steer comment was a joke,lol
           
        • kursplat

          kursplat FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          joke...got to say, your believing i meant it made my day :thumbsup:
           
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          • 72Dart6pack

            72Dart6pack Harder Better Faster Stronger.

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            What it looks like when you do it off the car first. Yes this is mine.

            20170704_220802.jpg
             
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