XE 268 cam

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Mike 340

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How much vacuum should I have at idle?
In park I have 11" and in gear 9.5"
The engine is a 340 cast iron exhaust manifolds and a spread bore 71 intake.
Car seems to perform well but it only has 1000 miles on a rebu
 
How much vacuum should I have at idle?
In park I have 11" and in gear 9.5"
The engine is a 340 cast iron exhaust manifolds and a spread bore 71 intake.
Car seems to perform well but it only has 1000 miles on a rebu

Hello Mike340

I have the same vacuum @ idle... also 340 with x heads hp manifold and spreadbore intake...topped with a TQ Carb
I am running 18 deg. @ idle with 16 deg. advance...
because with lower numbers @ idle... the engine runs like crap.... this type of cam "loves" the higher numbers.. Check the timing...

I never got more vacuum than 11ish....or close to 12ish

but who cares...as long as it WORKS ?

Greetings Juergen
 
How much vacuum should I have at idle?
In park I have 11" and in gear 9.5"
The engine is a 340 cast iron exhaust manifolds and a spread bore 71 intake.
Car seems to perform well but it only has 1000 miles on a rebu

I have this cam in my 318, That's about the same readings I get. brasil is right, this cam seems to like a little more in terms of initial timing.
 
Thanks for replying. I feel that I have it set up right. Although I am running 13 degree's at idle with a total of 34 degrees by 2500 rpms.
What do you think of this cam? Seems to me that it has good street manners with a nice "lumpy "sound at idle.
 
13 initial isn't enough for that cam in a street340
 
How do I set the mechanical limit?
I have a MP electronic distributer. Is there a kit or do I have to go into it and figure out how to stop the weights from moving out too much.
 
How do I set the mechanical limit?
I have a MP electronic distributer. Is there a kit or do I have to go into it and figure out how to stop the weights from moving out too much.

The older style OEM slots can be welded or you can use an FBO limiter plate.
The newer MP (Mallory) can be adjusted. You can use drill bits instead of the keys they sell.
 

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The older style OEM slots can be welded or you can use an FBO limiter plate.
The newer MP (Mallory) can be adjusted. You can use drill bits instead of the keys they sell.

Using drill bit shanks is an excellent tip. Been doing that for years instead of spending $ on the kit. The springs in the kit are very handy.
 
That's highest we could get, but that was in park. How much difference is it if you do it in gear? My cam is also a xe 268 not a he.
 
with a lot of CR you can´t even use one of the springs ..in the kit.. they are too "light"... I used Ford OEM Springs ...
from a 68 302 Mustang... now the timing curve is
perfekt !.... and yes 17 / 18 deg @ idle is the minimum to use... less... and the engine runs like crap...
Greetings Juergen
 
I idled a 292/509 at 11.2Scr,on14*, with a 750DP. Very sweet idle.Kickazz cam,pulled from 5000 to 7000. Unfortunately, as a streeter, I found that didn't help me one bit.I ditched that cam in a hurry.
 
I love the 508 cam. I think it's one of the best, right behind the 528. The key is getting it advanced enough. It will suck cylinder pressure otherwise.
 
You got that right. I put it in at 108, cuz I thought I wanted the top end. I mean I had 3.91s so who needs bottom end, right?!
Wrong!
I tried 104..Not enough....
I tried 100; still too soft. And I was running 11.2Scr or a bit better.I put in some 4.30s
The power didn't hit until 35 mph, with those 4.30s. And then it exploded. It was a lot of fun for the summer.
Then I ditched it.
 
^^^ still got that 508? I live close to Polo..
If this was to me, then no.
I put it up for sale, and a young man came poking around. I took him for a ride and he was so impressed with the combo,that we struck a deal right then. Man, I couldn't get that stick outta there fast enough.I think that was 2000/2001.
-PoloPark? My old stomping grounds. StJamesSt. sucks now.Actually driving in the city mostly sucks now. I haven't been to town for a day-trip for many years.
 
AJs Quick guide to selecting an initial timing number;
Basic is 12*
add; 1*per5*of cam timing larger than 220@050, and, -1*per 5* under 220@050
So basic plus;
a 220 cam needs (220 -220)/5 = plus 0*, So 12*, and
a 250*cam needs (250-220)/5 = plus 6*, So 18*, and
a 200* wants (200-220)/5 = minus 4*, So 8*
This will get your T-port sync pretty close. Fine-tune from there
 
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If this was to me, then no.
I put it up for sale, and a young man came poking around. I took him for a ride and he was so impressed with the combo,that we struck a deal right then. Man, I couldn't get that stick outta there fast enough.I think that was 2000/2001.
-PoloPark? My old stomping grounds. StJamesSt. sucks now.Actually driving in the city mostly sucks now. I haven't been to town for a day-trip for many years.
Yah was meant for you. If yah had it I'd buy it on the spot. Always looking for SBM stuff so hit me up if you have any 4-sale.

Anyways, where did you get that '1*per5*of cam timing larger than 220@050' formula? Cause if your running vac advance the timing will get
outta hand.
 
Hah, you noticed my post on initial timing.
Thanks for checking it out.

I made it up. Having tuned many combos over the years, I needed to to find shortcuts to speed up the process. Knowing that most iron headed sbms like about 36* of power timing when not octane limited, I still needed to get the T-port sync timing ballparked in a hurry. Having a few distributor timing cams in my kit, it was a simple matter of dropping in the right cam, setting the T-port sync, and fine tuning the rate of advance for the chassis.Over the years, I developed different short-cuts, but this one saved me a lot of fooling around. And when the shop charge is 5 or 6 or 8 times what the poor car-owner makes, time is money, and I'm all about helping the little guys save money. I always had weeks to months of work ahead of me so I was never looking to make big money on individual jobs. That's just stealing IMO.And thieves are destined to destruction.
My turn to be curious, You say you are always looking for sbm stuff. Are you buying and selling, or just looking to gather stuff for the next project?

Oh and what's your definition of "outta hand"; I run 14/34@3400,plus 22ported(another shortcut). My 367 with a 230 cam,likes 48* at 2200 for cruising in overdrive. This is 14 initial, 12 centrifugal at 2200,and 22 in the can. she will accept a lot more at 2200 but that's all I can give her with the current dizzy. She likes over 55* at 2200.The previous cam liked a lot more, with double overdrive and a really lean AFR, returning over 32 mpgUS.
My initial follows the guide perfectly (230 -220)/5 =2 added to 12 = 14*. I tried more but it makes adding centrifugal and ported more difficult, And I lost the bad-boy idle. Smooth idle is not my goal.Stable yes. Rock-solid yes, unflappable yes.Smooth I could care less. If somebody wants smooth, I can install a teener cam.There's your smooth.
I have a dial-back timing gizmo mounted under my dash.I can add or subtract 7 or 8 degrees of timing from the drivers seat. Sometimes when I'm feeling a little pesky, I will crank the idle timing back to 7* at a stoplite. Now the motor is sounding much more potent than it is and I'm intimidating the Mustanger in the next lane. Ima pushing his buttons and I can see he's starting to lose it. When the light turns green he blasts off intending to grind me into powder. Meanwhile, I need a second to put my timing back. And then I take off rather normally. See I pick my spots and I pick my times. I am not like that Mustanger; nobody pushes my buttons.If I am going to risk my ride or my driver's license, or even my life I am gonna do it on my terms.But that DB gizmo sure is fun.......Best tool I ever bought!
 
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Interesting. IMO 36 degrees total is way to much.. 31-32 total. But depends on if you picked a shitty cam or not. Lol.
I'm buying for my current 360 project.
intakeb.jpg
 
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