Yes...Another Subframe Connector Question!

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Divenut

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Hey Folks,

I apologize in advance for my lack of knowledge on the topic. :eek:ops:

Finally getting around to fabbing up and welding in some subframe connectors. I have a line on rectangular tubing with the following specs:

3" x 1 1/2" x 11ga hr rect or 3" x 1" x 14ga hr rect tube

I am leaning towards the 3"x1.5" stock which seems like it will clear the floor board w/o cutting, but am wondering if it will slide the over rear frame rail after I notch the top tubing out being 11ga wall thickness?.

Thanks as always,

Pat & Kids
 
Make it fit. My sons' cars have 3x2x.120 and they are plenty stiff. I put something different on my Barracuda since it was what I had.
 
Not sure this is helpful, but I used 3X2 1/8 wall tubing and cut a little over 1/2 inch out of the rear half and re welded it to clear the floorboards. I think 3X1 1/2 tubing would be perfect. I'm not sure what thickness the gauge numbers correspond to.
 

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Just curious, what is everyone using for material. 1018? 4130? Something else? :happy1:
 
Not sure this is helpful, but I used 3X2 1/8 wall tubing and cut a little over 1/2 inch out of the rear half and re welded it to clear the floorboards. I think 3X1 1/2 tubing would be perfect. I'm not sure what thickness the gauge numbers correspond to.

Have you ever thought of making them and selling a set nice job.That would look great on my 69 Dart.
 
Not sure this is helpful, but I used 3X2 1/8 wall tubing and cut a little over 1/2 inch out of the rear half and re welded it to clear the floorboards. I think 3X1 1/2 tubing would be perfect. I'm not sure what thickness the gauge numbers correspond to.

Have you ever thought of making them and selling a set nice job.That would look great on my 69 Dart.

They do indeed look fantastic. My car has them thru the floor....but it was done this way so the cage had a few anchor spots...
 
Not sure this is helpful, but I used 3X2 1/8 wall tubing and cut a little over 1/2 inch out of the rear half and re welded it to clear the floorboards. I think 3X1 1/2 tubing would be perfect. I'm not sure what thickness the gauge numbers correspond to.

I have not seen any done quite like this, very nice. did you weld to the floor where it touched, or essentially just the ends that touch the frame?

also, is that your orange cuda in the profile pic? where can we see more pics of that car?
 
Make it fit. My sons' cars have 3x2x.120 and they are plenty stiff. I put something different on my Barracuda since it was what I had.

Thanks Jim. If necessary, I can revert to "brute force & ingorance" to make em work. :D

Not sure this is helpful, but I used 3X2 1/8 wall tubing and cut a little over 1/2 inch out of the rear half and re welded it to clear the floorboards. I think 3X1 1/2 tubing would be perfect. I'm not sure what thickness the gauge numbers correspond to.

Thanks qkcuda. That really helps, I'll go with the 1 1/2" stock...And that's some nice work you did on your frame connectors! :prayer:

Pat
 
Here are some more quick&dirty selfmade connectors. Size is pretty much 3" x 1,5".
Welded at the front against the crossmember. Then I put a transmission jack near the rear of the connector and pushed it up as high as it would go against the floorboards, and welded it at the rear frame.

I'm thinking of welding some angle iron against the connector and floorboards for some added strength.

Picture isn't the best because I had painted them just before.


20121228-73Dart-SubframeConnectors_zpsadc927af.jpg
 
Here are some more quick&dirty selfmade connectors. Size is pretty much 3" x 1,5".
Welded at the front against the crossmember. Then I put a transmission jack near the rear of the connector and pushed it up as high as it would go against the floorboards, and welded it at the rear frame.

I'm thinking of welding some angle iron against the connector and floorboards for some added strength.

Picture isn't the best because I had painted them just before.


20121228-73Dart-SubframeConnectors_zpsadc927af.jpg
I made mine out of 2x2" sq. 120 wall tubing. a plate welded on the front end, (w/ a hloe drilled in it for the new gas line) and the back slid inside the rear frame rails obout 6-7" ( don`t remember exactly). they protude thru the floor all the way, are welded to the floor the full length. they are much much stouter this way. if u line them up, u can also run a new fuel line in them, all the way from the back bumper( if u have an elec pump), clear thru and come out around the front frame rail. completly out of harms way. when u carpet, u can use a 3/4"-7/8" filler on each side of the 2" sq tube, in the floor rear board to even up the floor for a flat carpet look. worked pretty good. -------bob
 
Mine are not welded to the floor at all, just front and back. I probably wouldn't go to all that trouble again, but I already had the material. I would just buy the 3X1.5 tubing and avoid the clearance issue. I couldn't bring myself to cut up the virgin floors, so I cut the connectors instead.

Here is my favorite action pic from my last trip to the track, for the person who asked. (I think the frame connectors are working)
 

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Mine are not welded to the floor at all, just front and back. I probably wouldn't go to all that trouble again, but I already had the material. I would just buy the 3X1.5 tubing and avoid the clearance issue. I couldn't bring myself to cut up the virgin floors, so I cut the connectors instead.

Here is my favorite action pic from my last trip to the track, for the person who asked. (I think the frame connectors are working)

Sweet...Yes, looks like it's working just fine brother, :cheers: Thanks for the input.

Pat
 
I used 3" x 1.5" x .120" wall (11 gauge) tubing for mine. Notched the rear section to slide over the rails, then used some .120" plate to increase the surface area of the overlap on the rear frame rails.

IMG_4996_zps19e18495.jpg


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I put in torque boxes at the same time, and overlapped the connectors at the back when I installed them.
 
I used 2 x 3 14ga. on mine and then did outriggers to the rocker for the cage, if I did it again I would just use round tubing and mount the cage through the floor to that. I had to cut the floor and accidently marked it out wrong and didnt realize until I cut it, measure, measure and measure some more! I had to scab in some sheetmetal to give it an ok appearance....
 
Here are some more quick&dirty selfmade connectors. Size is pretty much 3" x 1,5".
Welded at the front against the crossmember. Then I put a transmission jack near the rear of the connector and pushed it up as high as it would go against the floorboards, and welded it at the rear frame.

I'm thinking of welding some angle iron against the connector and floorboards for some added strength.

Picture isn't the best because I had painted them just before.


20121228-73Dart-SubframeConnectors_zpsadc927af.jpg

Exactly how I did mine.....best $50 I spent on the car. Very easy to fab up and I am no fabricator!!
 
Exactly how I did mine.....best $50 I spent on the car. Very easy to fab up and I am no fabricator!!

Yep, looks straight forward which is good for me! I'll be in for a whopping $35.28 + my time. I think it's money well spent. :thumblef:
 
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