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Off the alternator? No. The functional path is..........blue gets power from the key, it is on the same line as "ignition run." Blue supplies battery power to alternator field.........through the field..........to the green wire.............which goes to the regulator. The regulator...

Yeh the points or pickup is what triggers the spark. The rotor is not really a great index, although you can certainly get it close enough to fire.

I don't believe that is the issue. Yeh, I know, he says he wiggled it and it went away, but I do not believe that is the cause. I've posted a LOT about these problems. A loose connection(s) in the field circuit should cause UNDER voltage if anything. Rarely, a bad battery will...

No, you are completely incorrect!!! You made TWO "another ones!!" So stick the badge, pretend it's a multi point suppository.

Man I'm sorry, I simply do not understand. You say "everything works except the radio." That surely is not true or you would not have posted what you did earlier??? Please go up and read post2 and answer those questions What do you mean you are "not getting power OUT of my...

Sounds like you have the right idea BUT.......... Do you understand about "compression stroke?" You must get no1 on compression. Pull no1 plug, bump engine, with your finger in no1 hole, and feel for compression. Then as it "starts to" compress, look for the marks and bring them up...

I think you have something bent, as in from an accident, or rust, etc. May be the K, may be the frame horns, etc. I see no way that even without the factory bolts, you could get a K that far off just from slopping it back and forth in the mounting holes.

Steve the so called standard is .040" There's more to it than that, if you find the original aircraft spec, it involves orifice entrance and exit angles and such, but close enough for us rednecks. My 1.99 thrift store TI scientific calc (solar LOL) says 3/64 is .0467. If you can...

I've posted this before, and I'm not trying to single you out. WE cannot see what you have. We only know what you tell us. This board, here is a two way street. If you want meaningful information, and if you expect some of us to put time in trying to help you, YOU need to answer...

What you are claiming is mostly impossible. In other words you are missing something important, and probably a lot simpler 1....What did you mean, "tested around and cut all the wires?" Cut WHAT wires? 2....Just how did you determine that the "battery + and - are shorted together?"...

I would do the following 1...Install some sort of method to get an accurate voltmeter on the block and starter stud, so you can measure batt V while cranking. One way is to simply get a couple of no 14 or smaller wire size eyelets with 3/8 eyes, get some scrap wire any size, 18-14...

I would suspect you are making a l mistake somehow. You are aware? That the tail /park circuit gets power from a separate source. B1 /B2 both must be receiving power. Check it under load. Install it loose, hanging down so you can access the terminals. Pull on park. Check that B1...

THAT IS NOT a vented cap. That is an evap controlled, pressure/ vacuum cap. In other words it is for pressure release. Be careful. Those caps changed almost yearly. There is an old photo posted by I think Steve, OldManMopar, showing the changes over the years.

I have a suggestion where you can put the tailshaft of that transmission WHICH YOU DID NOT BOTHER TO SHOW IN THE PHOTOS

The hell do you want? WHAT IN THE HELL DO YOU WANT? JUST WHAT IN THE **** DO YOU WANT?

Most connectors fall into place. Most all only connect to one component. Example of "some confusion." The single wire that attaches to the brake warning lamp switch down on the brake prop valve. But it has a stud push on connector. Not very many of them in the car. The other single...

You need to be more specific. Your post is so general that we have no idea what you are looking at Generally speaking, parts stores are gonna be LITTLE help. NAPA used to/ may still have, useable headlight/ flasher connectors, and the connector for the voltage regulator, as well as...

There are also various "conversion joints" which amount to one size on two journals, and another size on the other two.

I think that stuff is available at the Hamtramck registry site. https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/

It would be swell, when you ask questions such as this, if you'd actually post a photo. One larger than a postage stamp, and maybe one that actually shows the entire transmission. Hint: Cannot see the output Also, "the numbers" may or may not actually mean much. As old as these girls...

My take on Kim, over the years, is that he is not a whiner. I'm 75, and Kim has been around for considerably longer My solution? I just don't fuckin go there

Actually, this is not true.

TREMENDOUS!!! What is the brake lathe? Don't recognize it. I've used an OLD Van Norman many decades ago, and used and have an Ammco combo disc/ drum lathe. I've literally turned thousands of drums and rotors in 15 some years selling parts

Hey young'in, how the heck ya been?

Only time I've seen a slip yoke that is keyed/ master spline is when it must be clocked, IE a slip yoke on a shaft

On a side note, Don is 92 and looks like he could be 60

Don't forget "thread files." They can be very useful. The old school "normal" thread file is rectangular overall, and squared into 4 working surfaces which are divided in the middle of the file, lengthwise. This gives you 8 separate surfaces, so each file can accomodate 8 different...

Lordie, lordie, LORDIE!!