Cams for 318's

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Those interested in actual 318 testing and development should bookmark @CPDave's posts.
When he bought the Dart from Josh, it had a Dick Ott built 318 with a 262 adv duration, 420/420 lift cam.
My experience was that it had a very responsive throttle.
The reason for developing the 318 was that he (Dave) was able to get it into the SVRA rules. (Otherwise he'd have to use an engine under 305")

Anyway. here's the post that outlines the development.

and one just on the current build

Thanks, great write ups there by CPDave. Good detail of components and results on each engine combo tested.

He put a lot of effort into gathering that information.

Thanks
 
I made that comment because the baseline run they did started at 2K RPM.
 
...and now...just like all the other 318 threads...you have to also install ... a 4.10 gear...and a 5000 converter...after you get a 390 stroker kit.
 
...or just use the stock cam.
 
Do you go around red X-ing anyone else, or is it just me.

The two posts above are humor...humor.

Because those are the things that get posted every time someone starts a "cam for a 318" thread.

At this point I'd rather you put me on your "ignore list" than keep red x-ing my posts for no or apparently no good reason.
 
K.. figured i would post here rather than making a new thread for the same thing..

My heads finally showed up so i have most of my engine other than cam/lifter/gaskets now.. Need to pick a cam.

Engine is a 1985 318 LA Roller which is listed as 9.2:1 but i'm putting on 60cc TF heads so it should end up around 9.7-9.8 (guessing, i believe the stock 302 heads were 64cc)
Sadly for now a stock converter (need a 19 spline converter parts to convert to 24 spline trans) and 2.79 rear til i find a 3.91 pig but that will probably be next year..
Performer RPM intake.

Basically just looking to make a good running 318 with a bit of torque to beat on for the year and next year either go 390 or 426 if i find a 360 roller block.
According to Vizards math i should be looking for 109LSA and i was thinking 220* and around .520 lift.
Also... i am using 1.5 mancini aluminum rockers cause i'm an idiot and didn't get the 1.6's..

Was looking at something like this
Howards Cam #1

Doesn't have to be howards, just trying to find something that will work good with this combo for a year or so.. when i go up in cubes i will get a silly big cam and deal with that at the time :)
Thanks guys.

The goal this year is just to get the car on the road and make it drivable and solid (has been sitting since 1978) and i'm spreading out the cost by getting the heads/intake and all that now..

I am using the stock bottom end and probably won't spin over 5500-6k, i like to keep it safe and money in my pocket

P.S. Just read on another forum that this motor has to use a magnum cam... i'm 99% sure they use a LA cam, or you would need a magnum cam that is drilled for the shaft oiling setup? just making sure on this... Plus the fuel pump addon from hughes if i used a magnum cam.
 
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K.. figured i would post here rather than making a new thread for the same thing..

My heads finally showed up so i have most of my engine other than cam/lifter/gaskets now.. Need to pick a cam.

Engine is a 1985 318 LA Roller which is listed as 9.2:1 but i'm putting on 60cc TF heads so it should end up around 9.7-9.8 (guessing, i believe the stock 302 heads were 64cc)
Sadly for now a stock converter (need a 19 spline converter parts to convert to 24 spline trans) and 2.79 rear til i find a 3.91 pig but that will probably be next year..
Performer RPM intake.

Basically just looking to make a good running 318 with a bit of torque to beat on for the year and next year either go 390 or 426 if i find a 360 roller block.
According to Vizards math i should be looking for 109LSA and i was thinking 220* and around .520 lift.
Also... i am using 1.5 mancini aluminum rockers cause i'm an idiot and didn't get the 1.6's..

Was looking at something like this
Howards Cam #1

Doesn't have to be howards, just trying to find something that will work good with this combo for a year or so.. when i go up in cubes i will get a silly big cam and deal with that at the time :)
Thanks guys.

The goal this year is just to get the car on the road and make it drivable and solid (has been sitting since 1978) and i'm spreading out the cost by getting the heads/intake and all that now..

I am using the stock bottom end and probably won't spin over 5500-6k, i like to keep it safe and money in my pocket

P.S. Just read on another forum that this motor has to use a magnum cam... i'm 99% sure they use a LA cam, or you would need a magnum cam that is drilled for the shaft oiling setup? just making sure on this... Plus the fuel pump addon from hughes if i used a magnum cam.

Since you have better flowing heads, I'd recommend a smaller cam around 268 duration and .450 lift. You wind it too high and your stock oiling system won't support it. It is a street car with an automatic and high gears. Call a cam grinder and get their take. Be honest and figure out what you want now. I use Racer Brown, but they will all talk to you. Heck, call at least 3 of them and pick what makes the most sense to you.
 
Since you have better flowing heads, I'd recommend a smaller cam around 268 duration and .450 lift. You wind it too high and your stock oiling system won't support it. It is a street car with an automatic and high gears. Call a cam grinder and get their take. Be honest and figure out what you want now. I use Racer Brown, but they will all talk to you. Heck, call at least 3 of them and pick what makes the most sense to you.
Will do, just getting opinions here first... And is the small block oiling system THAT bad? I have seen guys doing the crossover in the valley thing and a few other mods like tubing the block and stuff like that, was wondering if it's overkill.. can't bring myself to drill into the block... i know my luck and will destroy something :)
 
Will do, just getting opinions here first... And is the small block oiling system THAT bad? I have seen guys doing the crossover in the valley thing and a few other mods like tubing the block and stuff like that, was wondering if it's overkill.. can't bring myself to drill into the block... i know my luck and will destroy something :)
No crazy stuff required. It is not bad, but look at a 340, that was made to run past 6,000 rpm. High pressure oil pump spring and a windage tray from the factory. If you take those heads to full potential, you're looking at 500 hp. Not sure where that takes the rpm to on a 318 cu in motor, but it's way above 5,000 rpm.
 
No crazy stuff required. It is not bad, but look at a 340, that was made to run past 6,000 rpm. High pressure oil pump spring and a windage tray from the factory. If you take those heads to full potential, you're looking at 500 hp. Not sure where that takes the rpm to on a 318 cu in motor, but it's way above 5,000 rpm.
Naw.. i'm shooting for a whole 400ish for this year.. i don't plan on going higher til i do a stroker at which point i am going to do the oil stuffs... i'm just using a melling high volume (i have always used HV and never had issues.. so i still do)
 
.480 lift cam is hardly a broomstick
Howard says street /strip for a 318
I'm thinking about as big as I'd like to go on a stock compression/ gears/ converter 318
would run better than the 268 comp in the above build and have more duration @ .200 where the power is made
does not the comp XE268 only have .454 lift?
Look at Hughes Whiplash cams
 
Look at Hughes Whiplash cams

I see them recommended but i can never seem to find any dyno numbers or track numbers, just people saying how cool they sound.. It makes me wonder if they are actually good or just a nasty idle?
P.S. on a small block at least... seen a few big block numbers..
 
I see them recommended but i can never seem to find any dyno numbers or track numbers, just people saying how cool they sound.. It makes me wonder if they are actually good or just a nasty idle?
P.S. on a small block at least... seen a few big block numbers..
Whiplash cams are "Poser" cams aren't they? They idle like a top fueler but smooth out at 2500 rpm.
 
Whiplash cams are "Poser" cams aren't they? They idle like a top fueler but smooth out at 2500 rpm.

I'm not calling them a poser cam, i'm just saying that all i ever see are videos like that which are "Ohhh listen how cool it is at idle" not... i changed from X cam to this and gained 2 tenths or actual results, although in a big block there are dyno numbers that are decent. I am just curious if a cam with a less annoying idle would do just as well and be more drivable. I have had over-cammed cars and i ended up hating every one of them :)
 
I'm not calling them a poser cam, i'm just saying that all i ever see are videos like that which are "Ohhh listen how cool it is at idle" not... i changed from X cam to this and gained 2 tenths or actual results, although in a big block there are dyno numbers that are decent. I am just curious if a cam with a less annoying idle would do just as well and be more drivable. I have had over-cammed cars and i ended up hating every one of them :)
Exactly. Cam's don't need to have a radical idle to work well in a mild built street engine. Too big and you may need a higher stall converter and rear gears to make it work.
 
You are running a roller which is more efficient. You get the benefit of more lift at a smaller duration number.
 
Exactly. Cam's don't need to have a radical idle to work well in a mild built street engine. Too big and you may need a higher stall converter and rear gears to make it work.

Yeah.. i actually was just reading up on their whiplash cams and they said anything over 8.6:1 will probably need octane additives. which at 9.8:1 i think i would rather not have to have.

"This cam will run on pump gas in a 318 with 8.6:1 or less compression and iron heads. If your compression is higher than this you may need to use a higher octane race fuel."

And i plan on a converter and gears.. i'm just too cheap to shell out what people are asking for the parts right now :) I will bite the bullet eventually though.
 
You are running a roller which is more efficient. You get the benefit of more lift at a smaller duration number.
Yeah.. i REALLY hate that i got the 1.5 rockers and not 1.6.. i figured less strain on the valvetrain and i would just get a cam with the lift i want to start with... too late now

I should see if mancini will let me exchange since i haven't opened em..
:)
 
yeah, this is the howards i was looking at... i mean.. i don't want a silly idle but i still would like to know i have a bit of a cam :)
 
And a 3 month wait.. i really need to plan better:)
 
K.. figured i would post here rather than making a new thread for the same thing..

My heads finally showed up so i have most of my engine other than cam/lifter/gaskets now.. Need to pick a cam.

Engine is a 1985 318 LA Roller which is listed as 9.2:1 but i'm putting on 60cc TF heads so it should end up around 9.7-9.8 (guessing, i believe the stock 302 heads were 64cc)
Sadly for now a stock converter (need a 19 spline converter parts to convert to 24 spline trans) and 2.79 rear til i find a 3.91 pig but that will probably be next year..
Performer RPM intake.

Basically just looking to make a good running 318 with a bit of torque to beat on for the year and next year either go 390 or 426 if i find a 360 roller block.
According to Vizards math i should be looking for 109LSA and i was thinking 220* and around .520 lift.
Also... i am using 1.5 mancini aluminum rockers cause i'm an idiot and didn't get the 1.6's..

Was looking at something like this
Howards Cam #1

Doesn't have to be howards, just trying to find something that will work good with this combo for a year or so.. when i go up in cubes i will get a silly big cam and deal with that at the time :)
Thanks guys.

The goal this year is just to get the car on the road and make it drivable and solid (has been sitting since 1978) and i'm spreading out the cost by getting the heads/intake and all that now..

I am using the stock bottom end and probably won't spin over 5500-6k, i like to keep it safe and money in my pocket

P.S. Just read on another forum that this motor has to use a magnum cam... i'm 99% sure they use a LA cam, or you would need a magnum cam that is drilled for the shaft oiling setup? just making sure on this... Plus the fuel pump addon from hughes if i used a magnum cam.
I would measure what you have, I bet that 318 is closer to 7.5 on compression.
 
I would measure what you have, I bet that 318 is closer to 7.5 on compression.
I know the factory wasn't right most of the time, but listing the motor at 9.2 and being 7.5 would be way off.. but i do need to check it all..
 
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