NC340: It's the small line that goes from the junction block up and around the frame to the hose that would then attach to the drum.
OK, my misunderstanding. I thought you needed one of the
caliper lines. Those were the only preformed lines I ordered for my Valiant. We weren't using the factory distribution block, and we added a line lock and adjustable prop valve, so factory parts wouldn't work. Every line on my car is custom except those four little caliper lines.
Take
@Kern Dog's advice. Flaring is pretty easy to do--everyone did their first double flare at some point. Eventually you'll run into a line with an oddball nut on one end (master cylinder, prop valve, etc.). Re-using the OE nut is preferable to using an adapter fitting. Less joints = less potential for leaks.
You can get a double-flaring tool set at any auto supply. It's the same tool you'll need for OE fuel lines, too. Make sure it's a
double-flaring tool; it should say "brake line" or "45°" somewhere on the package. Common parts-store kits include Astro Pneumatic 7826, OTC 4503, Lisle 31310, ATD 5463 and Performance Tool 80670. Don't be a afraid to spend a little extra for a good one; you
will do more line repairs living in the Rust Belt. I'd recommend one with a storage case since those little dies can get lost pretty easily.
Pick up a mini bender similar to Performance Tool W704C, too. You might not need it this go-round, but it's damned handy for $5.
