Oil Drain Plug....RTV!

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1970Dart198

1970Dart198

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I went to do an oil change today....jacked the car up, jackstands, belgian blocks behind the rear wheels, drop light on the Oil drain Plug and I saw RTV caked all over the bolt.

This signified the previous guy who did my oil change when I was busy stripped the threads and sealed it up to mask the issue. Dammit. He wont be getting my business anymore!

What would you guys recommend I do? Replace the Oil Pan? Cut new threads? Use an oversized Honkey-Tonk Bolt and live with a few puddles?

Thanks!
 
Just an idea here , I'm not as savvy as a lot of these guys, but how about cutting new METRIC threads. You will have to check if there is a size slightly larger than standard.
Yote
 
Did you remove the plug to verify the threads are ruined, or are you just speculating?
 
I am just speculating. I called the mechanic who changed my oil when I was busy and he said he put RTV all over the threads. He torqued it down incredibly tight, I put my whole shoulder into it and nothing. The thing is, if I finally take the bolt out, and the threads are actually stripped, then it won't seal back up properly. I'll be needing to drive the Dart to a repair shop to get the oil pan serviced. I can change the oil pan in my garage, but having a lift is so much easier. I always feel more comfortable having a mechanic with a lift for real under the car work. I can do brakes and that kinda stuff, and I'm willing to help out a few excellent mechanics I know besides this guy.
 
drive it over to the guy who admitted to slopping the RTV all over there, and have him do it right this time
 
It's possible the, ah, "mechanic" (in quotes because no he's not, if he pulled that crap) glooped it up with RTV not because the threads were bad but because the plug gasket was bad or missing. If you're fortunate enough to have good (or repairable-with-a-tap) original-size threads in the pan's drain plug hole, install a Chrysler part № 6035 417, which is a drain plug with a built-on, permanent, very beefy, non-losable steel-backed gasket that seals a whole lot better than a separate gasket ever did. Best buy that plug before removing the old one; any dealer will have it in stock.

If you're not fortunate and the threads are hosed, then the "mechanic" who hosed the threads can freakin' well pay for the repairs to put it back in the condition it was in before he hamfisted it.
 
When you take it back to him explain that that plug is just holding in the oil, not retaining the pitman arm.
Yote
 
Thanks guys for your responses. I'm pretty well pissed off at this point at him. I have a good friend of mine who has a three story barn in upstate NY full of Used and NOS Mopar parts he wants to get rid of. He's checking amongst his sixes for an oil pan that'll fit my year. I might as well do it once and do it right with a new oil pan. I'm happy to have a better mechanic do the job for a good price. I went to the previous guy because I wanted to give him business, but instead costing me time and money. He won't be getting my jobs anymore!
 
NAPA type jobbers used to sell oversized drain plugs. These had identical thread pitches to the originals, but were a few thou bigger, and were slightly tapered, and cut their own threads as they were tightened.
 
I have seen some with threads so jacked it broke the nut for the plug right off the inside of the pan trying to get it out.
Damn! now it's loose but can't be tightened or removed either one.
 
TrailBeast said:
I have seen some with threads so jacked it broke the nut for the plug right off the inside of the pan trying to get it out.
Damn! now it's loose but can't be tightened or removed either one.
Click to expand...
(Used to be..)Common on 200-300,.000 mile imports,with Jiffy Lube jockeys overtightened the drain pan plug,every time...
 
1970Dart198 said:
I went to do an oil change today....jacked the car up, jackstands, belgian blocks behind the rear wheels, drop light on the Oil drain Plug and I saw RTV caked all over the bolt.

This signified the previous guy who did my oil change when I was busy stripped the threads and sealed it up to mask the issue. Dammit. He wont be getting my business anymore!

What would you guys recommend I do? Replace the Oil Pan? Cut new threads? Use an oversized Honkey-Tonk Bolt and live with a few puddles?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

When we worked at the 10 minute oil change, we would chase the threads in the oil pan with a tap, then use the GM 1/2" drain plug and nylon gasket for it...

It's stronger than the original drain plug with the 7/8" hex head and will last longer...
 
Thanks guys, I'll see if I can get the technician to chase the treads at a straight angle and see if we can repair the threads before taking off the pan. What I'll do is buy the oil pan from my parts friend, keep it in reserve until the technician opens up the original way over-tightened oil drain plug. If the threads are repairable, well I'll have a Oil Pan for sale! If they're not, then I'm not wasting time on the lift. Good idea?
 
1970Dart198 said:
Thanks guys, I'll see if I can get the technician to chase the treads at a straight angle and see if we can repair the threads before taking off the pan. What I'll do is buy the oil pan from my parts friend, keep it in reserve until the technician opens up the original way over-tightened oil drain plug. If the threads are repairable, well I'll have a Oil Pan for sale! If they're not, then I'm not wasting time on the lift. Good idea?
Click to expand...

The original drain plugs were made of a softer metal than the oil pan... They strip out first before the pan will... Chances are you can chase them with a tap and they will be good again... 1/2" fine thread...
 
krazykuda said:
When we worked at the 10 minute oil change, we would chase the threads in the oil pan with a tap, then use the GM 1/2" drain plug and nylon gasket for it...

It's stronger than the original drain plug with the 7/8" hex head and will last longer...
Click to expand...

I`d check the threads first, to verify their condition. when my daughter was driving my 88 Silverado going to school, she had the oil changed at jiffy lube in Owasso ,ok , all the time she had it. When I GOT THE TRUCK BACK, THERE WAS A RUBBER EXPANDABLE PLUG TYPE DEAL IN THE DRAIN HOLE, REALLY A PIECE OF CRAP. I JACKED THE TRUCK UP A LITTLE SIDE WAYS WHERE THE OIL DRAIN HOLE WAS ABSOLUTLY THE LOWEST POINT IN THE PAN, AND TORE THE RIG OUT, AND TAPPED THE HOLE W/ A PIPE TAP. THEN POURED FILTERED USED OIL BACK THRU IT TO MAKE SURE IT WAS FLUSHED GOOD. no problems with it from there on. I don`t feel bad at all about bad mouthing shoddy work ! (sorry about the caps, clumsy typing here) Hopefully the jiffy lube has changed empoyees since then.
 
famous bob said:
I`d check the threads first, to verify their condition. when my daughter was driving my 88 Silverado going to school, she had the oil changed at jiffy lube in Owasso ,ok , all the time she had it. When I GOT THE TRUCK BACK, THERE WAS A RUBBER EXPANDABLE PLUG TYPE DEAL IN THE DRAIN HOLE, REALLY A PIECE OF CRAP. I JACKED THE TRUCK UP A LITTLE SIDE WAYS WHERE THE OIL DRAIN HOLE WAS ABSOLUTLY THE LOWEST POINT IN THE PAN, AND TORE THE RIG OUT, AND TAPPED THE HOLE W/ A PIPE TAP. THEN POURED FILTERED USED OIL BACK THRU IT TO MAKE SURE IT WAS FLUSHED GOOD. no problems with it from there on. I don`t feel bad at all about bad mouthing shoddy work ! (sorry about the caps, clumsy typing here) Hopefully the jiffy lube has changed empoyees since then.
Click to expand...

Yeah, we used those rubber plugs when tapping and new plug wouldn't work...

Rubber plugs were "plan C"...
 
AJ/FormS said:
NAPA type jobbers used to sell oversized drain plugs. These had identical thread pitches to the originals, but were a few thou bigger, and were slightly tapered, and cut their own threads as they were tightened.
Click to expand...
This is what I was thinking of to fix this, if the threads are indeed shot. These do the job.
 
I found it in my service manual, 1/2-20 tightened at 20 foot pounds. If I want to cut new threads, what size should I go to? What bolt type, and what gasket material. Many thanks!
 
Last edited:
Just a note: Around here, just about any shop / 'Jiffy Lube' etc. will put a shot of RTV on the threads before they send it out. Talking to a friend that works at one of these joints, Too many shops have had to buy new engines for customers because the plug was forgotten / loose. They figure the bright colored RTV (Most use Orange or Yellow) let everyone know it was done.
I would pull the plug and check if it is stripped or not before crucifying anyone.
My two cents.:soapbox:
 
rule #1 do not use a 1/2 air impact to remove or install oil drain plug.
stripping an oil drain plug is what an idiot does. I have zero tolerance for such people.
I guess changing oil is an American pastime.
 
Ok, got a chance to open up the drain plug on a lift. WOW was it tight! The lift allowed us to get it at a better angle. I never really was a fan of jack-stands for anything else other than brakes/oil changes. Upon inspection, the threads looked pretty darn good! We were all amazed, we cleaned off the entire area and thoroughly inspected everything. The original drain plug bolt was decent, but the threads looked a little "rounded". Fortunately I had the forethought to but a new plug Dorman 090-052. We put on a new gasket (the old one didn't have one!) Torqued it down nice and snug, and I was good to go!
 
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