Slant 6 most mpg's

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moparblood

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just picked a 76 dart lite 4 speed, i want to squeeze the most mpg's pout of it.
going to have the engine rebuilt, should i make any modes as far as pistons, cam,etc..?
1bbl or 2bbl? if i go with a header would that affect back pressure?
 
If you use a 2 barrel, find a staged 2 barrel, such as a Weber. With both barrels not opening at the same time, that will save some fuel.
 
A Dutra RV10-RDP cam (that is grind № 2106R from Oregon Cam Grinding), dialled-in very carefully. HEI upgrade with distributor appropriately curved by DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org, fuel line mod, and conversation beyond distributor recurving with DusterIdiot, who's been down the road you're looking at—multiple times.
 
A Dutra RV10-RDP cam (that is grind № 2106R from Oregon Cam Grinding), dialled-in very carefully. HEI upgrade with distributor appropriately curved by DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org, fuel line mod, and conversation beyond distributor recurving with DusterIdiot, who's been down the road you're looking at—multiple times.

A Dutra RV10-RDP cam (that is grind № 2106R from Oregon Cam Grinding), dialled-in very carefully. HEI upgrade with distributor appropriately curved by DusterIdiot over on slantsix.org, fuel line mod, and conversation beyond distributor recurving with DusterIdiot, who's been down the road you're looking at—multiple times.
dialed very carefully? never herd that . please be specfic! as in dialing it in?
 
It's called camshaft "centerlining", "indexing", or "dialling in". It involves very carefully measuring to make sure the camshaft's position relative to the crankshaft is exactly what it should be—rather than just lining up the dots on the crank and cam sprockets and hoping for the best. There are lots of articles about it all over the web; a Google search will quickly bring you lots of reading.
 
I recommend milling the head to raise the CR. How much depends on the cam, your tuning abilities, and what octane fuel you can live with.
 
Your driving style will also have a lot to do with it.
Basically, you must drive it very methodically with no extra revs between gears and no jack rabbit starts,
In other words, drive like an old man and stick to just under the speed limit with only enough throttle opening to get the job done...........
It might help to install a vacuum gauge and drive the car with the highest vacuum possible at all times.
Having the tallest, skinniest, smoothest tread, hardest tire that you can fit on your rims helps with a low restriction exhaust
will help as well.
A great engine tune (as previously discussed) is paramount and if you could lighten the car further that always helps too.
Finally, as stupid as it sounds, make sure you buy good gas to run from a reputable station!
 
I recommend milling the head to raise the CR. How much depends on the cam, your tuning abilities, and what octane fuel you can live with.
what would be the best compression ratio meaning not too much want to run 87 octane, not looking for hp's just want to get the advertised 36 mpg's
or better.
 
It's called camshaft "centerlining", "indexing", or "dialling in". It involves very carefully measuring to make sure the camshaft's position relative to the crankshaft is exactly what it should be—rather than just lining up the dots on the crank and cam sprockets and hoping for the best. There are lots of articles about it all over the web; a Google search will quickly bring you lots of reading.

Otherwise known as "degree the cam".

I've considered doing a slant six driver...what kind of mileage can you get in an A body that's optimized for it?
 
Otherwise known as "degree the cam".

I've considered doing a slant six driver...what kind of mileage can you get in an A body that's optimized for it?
from what i've gathered the #'s are all over the map. i'm shooting for the moon. i have really light rims getting the tallest tire,
going with all the synthetic oils, engine, rear trans. i have the 4 speed overdrive that should help.
 
If youre truely serious, tbi would get you alot closer. Seeing fitechs new 400hp go street systems on inlines more and more, seems they realized there is a market for daily drivers. Obviously multi port would net you more gains, but its a ton more work
 
If youre truely serious, tbi would get you alot closer. Seeing fitechs new 400hp go street systems on inlines more and more, seems they realized there is a market for daily drivers. Obviously multi port would net you more gains, but its a ton more work
Define a ton of work! thanks i am serious
 
Do some reading on mpfi on slant six .org

I would ask some you tubers about their inline 6 tbi setups, there is a fella on there with a 67 stang 200ci inline thats got a fitech unit on it. Pick his brain about it. Sure looks like a nice runner from the videos
 
what would be the best compression ratio meaning not too much want to run 87 octane, not looking for hp's just want to get the advertised 36 mpg's
or better.

Depends on the cam, and tuning ability. In my opinion, you will never get 36 mpg, in the real world.
I have a 64 Valiant 4dr sdn Haven't had it on the scale, but a reasonable guesstimate of weight would be 2900-3000 lbs, on the road. It has a 170 built for economy, Bored and honed .060 with a block plate, decked to .005, balanced, mild MP cam (244 dur, 436 lift) Little valve pocket blending. Milled head (can't remember how much) but measured 9.5-1 CR. stock intake and exhaust manfolds, Holley 1 bbl carb. With 3 speed standard trans, got about 28 mpg, with a points dist. I have since added a electronic dist, and HEI. Still need to do a recurve on the dist. With enough initial timing for a good idle, it will ping on 93 octane, at load. That is what I meant by tuning ability. As time permits, after I get the distributor recurved, I plan on a different carb, and larger exhaust. I also have a 4speed OD trans, that I might try. With all these mods, I would be satisfied wth low 30's mpg
 
what would be the best compression ratio meaning not too much want to run 87 octane, not looking for hp's just want to get the advertised 36 mpg's
or better.

back in the '70's those claimed mpg used the EPA rating which was calculated by a different method than they use today. No one got 36 mpg.
 
My DD is a 73 Duster with a 225/904/2.91 gets around 24mpg

.080 decked (78)peanut plug head
Erson RV10M cam
SuperSix 2bbl setup
MSD with recurved distributor
2 1/4 exhaust
TransGo Shiftkit
Clutch-fan setup

future upgrades will be a 78 hydro lockup 904 and possibly FiTech efi
shooting for +28mpg

Good luck in your mpg quest.
 
GAMoparMan's mention of a clutch fan is worth paying attention to. Can be tough to find a good clutch fan that will fit in front of a long Slant motor; see here.

You'd also want to put attention and money into the exhaust system. Dutra Duals with pipework and muffler(s) as described here.
 
I was able to get better MPGs with a hi-compression 360 than I could ever get out of a 9.5Scr 225 with an automatic; go figure. OK I'll admit it,I had a double overdrive,lol.
One of the problems with a 225 is you still have to get up to cruising speed and that takes a lot of throttle in an F-body(what I had). Another thing is trying to give her enough ignition timing in overdrive.

If she's got 2.45s in the back, and a trans with 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od, then consider how you're gonna get up to cruising speed.You're probably gonna run it up to 2800 or so and then shift into second, right? Ok how fast are you going and what rpm will you be doing? Well with 26.5 inch tires,You'd be doing 29mph@2800 ..Whoa! So now you shift into second, and accelerate from 1505 to 2800, which would get you 62mph,and you shift straight into overdrive and creep up to 1474rpm@65. Notice Direct was never used.
Now to get to 65 in a reasonable period of time running at these pretty LOW rpms, is gonna take a considerable amount of throttle, in a part of the powerband where the engine is not very efficient, and hasn't got a lot of power in the first place. I mean check it out; in the getting to 65mph, the engine will run from say; 1200 to 2800, then from 1505 to 2800, then a drop to 1474.So that is gonna take a very specialized combination of parts to make any kind of power.
Next lets talk about cruising at 1474rpm. To cruise at 65 takes something like 45/50hp. How much throttle is it gonna take for the 225 to make 50 hp at 1474 rpm? 50hp converts to 117 ftlbs at 1475 rpm. That's a lotta ftlbs for this little engine. It's gonna take a lotta throttle. She'll be into the mains for sure. So your gonna have your hands full on the tune, to satisfy the lean running on cruise, yet make some power when it's needed.
But that's not the end of it;
Let's talk about ignition timing. How are you gonna build a curve to satisfy BOTH the power-timing and the cruise timing? You cannot.
And if you can't give the engine the timing it wants, then the engine is gonna want more throttle opening than necessary to achieve a certain loaded rpm, and also to maintain it. And that just plain wastes fuel.
So the conclusion is; don't try this with 2.45s like I did,..............lol.
And we haven't even discussed city driving......
Go back to the top of the page; see where it says 29mph at 2800 in first. Well on the shift into Second, the Rs will drop to 1505. That's not gonna work. Firstly, you're gonna be slipping the clutch out to over 10/12 mph, then more or less flooring it to get up into traffic, and then creeping along at 29mph =1505rpm, in second gear. I wonder if the slanty can even maintain that speed in the low-speed circuit, so again, she will be on the mains.
Conclusion; don't try this with 2.45s.

Ok so what gear should you use? I'm gonna guess 2.94s or so.These will get you some acceleration capability, yet cruise at 65=1770. Now you can cruise 30mph in second at 1868, and that will work. And now you can begin to build a timing curve to satisfy both the power timing and the cruise timing, cuz now the V-can is gonna work, cuz the throttle is gonna be closed far enough to be in it's working range.And then you can lean the carb out.
Conclusion: IMO 2.94s are the minimum rear gear to use.And that would be with an engine of close to 9.5Scr, and a proper cam for this application. Less compression is gonna require more throttle opening, that's just the way it is.

I tried this with a SuperSix intake and 2bbl carb. I chose that carb cuz of it's tiny venturies and multiple signal boosters. At 9.5Scr I could not get any detonation with "normal" timing curves. Getting sufficient cruise-timing was impossible, so I just made the best of it. I used the 2.45s, and an A999 with ratios of 2.74-1.54-1.00 and a loc-up TC.
It did pretty good on the hiway, but was a slug on take-off,lol.And it was a DEAD car around town. I will never use 2.45s behind a slanty again.
I also had some pretty tall tires on her, over 28", but I don't recall exactly;maybe 255/75-15s. 65mph was around 1900.
This car never made the numbers I was hoping for. Yet I drove it for over 21 years, and it's parked outside right now, ready to go.
I did way better with a Hi-compression,small-cam, 360, geared for 65=1590 And no it wasn't cheap. It was,however, the funnest iteration of the three I have tried. In case someone is wondering; the trans to make that 1590@65 was the same one OP has but with a GVOD behind it, and 3.55s. That was 3.55x.71x.78= a final drive of 1.966. She easily pulled that gear down to 55mph@1350rpm.
 
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I'm running the v-belt setup from a 78 aspen with Sanden AC compressor.

Only clutch and fan setup I could get to work with the shroud was the Mercedes Mod.

Car runs great and cool even in summer traffic.
 
just picked a 76 dart lite 4 speed, i want to squeeze the most mpg's pout of it.
going to have the engine rebuilt, should i make any modes as far as pistons, cam,etc..?
1bbl or 2bbl? if i go with a header would that affect back pressure?

What's your end goal for maximizing MPG?
If its "saving" money, then NOT spending on parts is worth a LOT in terms of imagined mpg "savings". Even NOT spending $50 is worth quite a few mpgs.

If it's just for fun in general, what is the budget?
Fuel injection running a lean 15.5:1 A/F closed loop during cruise and computer controlled timing, would be the way to go.
 
I am envious, I have been looking for a Lite for a few years. Remember, don't start throwing parts away, when the package is in good tune, you can get some great numbers. Screw it up and it might go in the dumpster. I got GREAT mileage with my bone stock +150K Feather Duster years ago. Here is all I would do to get my baseline. Tires at max pressure, alignment on front end to spec, syn oil in rear, timing just at the max on dist and good state of tune, filters, plugs, etc. Good luck with your quest!
 
I am envious, I have been looking for a Lite for a few years. Remember, don't start throwing parts away, when the package is in good tune, you can get some great numbers. Screw it up and it might go in the dumpster. I got GREAT mileage with my bone stock +150K Feather Duster years ago. Here is all I would do to get my baseline. Tires at max pressure, alignment on front end to spec, syn oil in rear, timing just at the max on dist and good state of tune, filters, plugs, etc. Good luck with your quest!
ditto on the syn. fluids so generally,with the basically stock parts on the lite should be in the house.But never take anything for granted
tall tires,great tune up, when i get this car going i will post results! car has No cat. just a 2 1/4 pipe
there are No 2 cars the same. had a 84 ply. turismo got 41 mpg didn't have the 2.2 had some 1.6 foreign motor.
 
Say Barbee, do you recall what final drive ratio, or the cruise rpm , so I can correlate to my combo?
the end goal! seeing if it can be done. usually when something good comes out, it is discontinued. thats a Fact! you hear stories of certain cars that were extrodinary. and some Not so much. i even had a 96 neon got over 400k miles. i like simple, No computers or engine lights. the only thing that doesn't break in a New car is the engine light.with everyone on this forum i believe the car will do good. and everyone else will see the results. there will be mistakes and hopefully more gains.
 
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