208Dart
Well-Known Member
Made an executive decision and went with a cast aluminum color and don’t regret it (yet!) one bit.
Made an executive decision and went with a cast aluminum color and don’t regret it (yet!) one bit.
View attachment 1715949230
I like it!
I was going to suggest the original blue, but that works.
I think I am going to go with black, but I have awhile before I have to actually do it so....
I like the look, of the aluminum paint color!!! I painted the block black with all the alum accents it looks ok. For what it is. the heads and intake are really what you see most in my car. if it comes out and i am sure it will i will go the route you went it looks great. also will get the questions going.... is that block aluminum???? pending your mood and who asks that could be a great fish on story.
no the gen 3 is a large motor for sure.Thank you! Definitely don’t regret it yet. The aluminum question would be hilarious. I’m redoing the paint on the front cover, it got scuffed moving it too early, but I did mock up the intake and valve covers just to see what it looks like! Unsure what I want to do for the valve cover covers. I’ll likely pick up a set of the factory 392 branded covers. But so far I’m liking it! This engine is NOT small that’s for sure…
Mike
View attachment 1715949611
I ordered my Holley oil pan back in early June with an estimated ship date of late July. Now they're saying it'll be mid november.... Looking at a Milodon now but once you factor in the new windage tray, gaskets, pickup, and pan I'm well over $500. Think I'll just end up waiting for the holley unless something has another source?
Next debate is what I want to do with my 833 transmission setup. I've got flywheel and pilot bearing part numbers ready to order from Brewers performance.... I just need a clutch kit I believe.
Current question is do I stick with the factory pedals/Z bar setup or do I go with a hydraulic TO bearing and kit? Will my factory 1970 stuff still work with the Gen 3?
I'm waiting to order a Holley pan, too. Been watching the date but I am seeing mid October, not November. Sorry I don't have another source.
I was watching their headers and saw them bump the price by $220 so I jumped on a set on eBay for the original price. But the seller couldn't locate the set he showed in stock so now I wait for a new shipment and watch the date move back a month each time the estimated ship date arrives.
I looked but I can't find what you settled on for headers and mounts. I did look up the TTI recommendations and they say you can run a z-bar but you have to modify it. If you are running the Holley mounts, the motor moves and the z-bar mount won't be in the right spot so you would need to build a new one of those. No idea on the Holley headers, they don't seem to make any comments probably because the stock trans/bell isn't in the factory location so it's kind of a "roll your own" deal if you use their parts.
So, I guess it depends on how much you want to build the parts to make the stock stuff work. Either way, looks like it requires some custom parts. Or you go hydraulic.
I know the bell will bolt to the motor, and assuming the flywheel is for a conversion, in theory from the face of the flywheel back it should be old school SB stuff so your factory stuff should work. Assuming you can get it hooked up.
Maybe that helps??
I don't plan on having this up and running until next spring/summer at the earliest so I will likely wait for the Holley pan myself.... I like the O-ring style gasket and the cast aluminum over the stamped steel of the Milodon.
Haven't decided on headers yet! I am running the HDK tubular front K member with his mounts + power rack/pinion steering so my header options are up to my preference. I do like the 3" collectors on the TTI's over the A body 2.5" collectors for the Hooker headers...
I have the RMS and have a stock 5.7 truck pan and pickup tube on my 6.1. Very cheap alternative. Not great pics showing it thoughView attachment 1715968482 View attachment 1715968483
I have the RMS and have a stock 5.7 truck pan and pickup tube on my 6.1. Very cheap alternative. Not great pics showing it thoughView attachment 1715968482 View attachment 1715968483
And the low mount AC compressor. So I bet Denny's kit already allows for that as well.
Didn't realize the truck pan worked with the coil over kits.
@208Dart you can have the truck pan off my 5.7 if you don't have one and want to go that direction.
If you have a conversion 10 1/2 inch flywheel, all the small block stuff works. Did this swap in a 72 Challenger. Used all small block linkage. Lined up and worked perfectly.
What year is the truck pan from? I have an 04 5.7 with RMS and the pan would not fit. I have to remove the rack to get the milidon off and onYes the pan and the 5.7 manual trans truck starter works also. tucks up against the block nice and tight
Have to trim the outer tube back to just about the firewall. Thus, moving the plastic bushing/bearing back too. My son has a 73 Scamp with 6.1/904 with factory column shift. Factory K and suspension.
If you decide to go floor shift, just easier to get a floor shift column. If your up for chop, cut, rebuild.... No big deal then.Perfect. I haven’t even inspected the column shift mechanism inside, but is it easily removed? Same question for gear shift indicator? Thank you!
Mike
I ended up using a hydraulic throw out bearing from American Drivetrain with a Center force dual friction clutch and Lakewood scatter shield. I tried to modify the Z bar but I still interfered with my TTI headers and did not work smoothly. I did have to machine about 0.090 of of the hydraulic throw out bearing to get the proper air gap at the clutch. The pedal is firm but not hard and the a833 shifts smoothly. Just note the front suspension is stock k frame and torsion barsDefinitely helps! Furthering the discussion always helps.
I don't plan on having this up and running until next spring/summer at the earliest so I will likely wait for the Holley pan myself.... I like the O-ring style gasket and the cast aluminum over the stamped steel of the Milodon.
Haven't decided on headers yet! I am running the HDK tubular front K member with his mounts + power rack/pinion steering so my header options are up to my preference. I do like the 3" collectors on the TTI's over the A body 2.5" collectors for the Hooker headers...
You know how these threads/builds go, everybody wants to know what fits and what doesn't before they actually try bolting components together. Once we get to that point it usually becomes MUCH clearer what needs to be done and it's usually not a big deal (I'm 100% guilty of this). At this point I'm leaning towards attempting to make the Z bar setup work... If anything just because I have it already to go!
With that said, does anyone have experience on clutch pedal feel on the A833 with hyraulic TO bearing vs traditional? I'm okay with a little stiffer clutch but my wife will want to occasionally drive this as well and it'd be nice if she didn't get a left leg workout while doing so Last time I drove an 833 was 15 years ago....
Mike
I ended up using a hydraulic throw out bearing from American Drivetrain with a Center force dual friction clutch and Lakewood scatter shield. I tried to modify the Z bar but I still interfered with my TTI headers and did not work smoothly. I did have to machine about 0.090 of of the hydraulic throw out bearing to get the proper air gap at the clutch. The pedal is firm but not hard and the a833 shifts smoothly. Just note the front suspension is stock k frame and torsion bars