i thought those were only avail. in big ball joint?SPC Gen I and Gen II and Hotchkis.
@BergmanAutoCraft can set you up with the SPC options. You can also add taller ball joints at the same time with his Howe options.
Sorry, skipped right over the year. Belay my last.i thought those were only avail. in big ball joint?
i mean i guess anthing is possible, but i don't think i've ever seen small joint adjustable uppers that weren't full custom. maybe early firm feel?
jeebus! $450 for the QA1's (plus $65 for their eccentric bolts) for 3 degrees of caster! for $300 mas at least you get adjustable with the hotchkis, even if you have to take them off (makes face).Hotchkis makes a small ball joint version of their arms, #1112-S
They have heims though, which you may not want for the street. And they’re only single adjustable, you have to pull them out of the UCA mounts to adjust the UCA itself.
QA1 also makes a small ball joint tubular UCA, but they’re not adjustable. They do have additional caster already built in though.
jeebus! $450 for the QA1's (plus $65 for their eccentric bolts) for 3 degrees of caster! for $300 mas at least you get adjustable with the hotchkis, even if you have to take them off (makes face).
fair point. i figured QA would pull some BS like having specialized bolts to go with the arms because some aspect of them doesn't jive with stock hardware by jussssttttt enough.You shouldn’t need the QA1 eccentric bolts unless your factory ones aren’t any good. And you should be able to achieve more than +3° of caster with the QA1 UCA’s too.
fair point. i figured QA would pull some BS like having specialized bolts to go with the arms because some aspect of them doesn't jive with stock hardware by jussssttttt enough.
i was scratching my head on that as well...Not much they can do there because they still have to use the factory UCA mounts, which dictate the size of the bolts.
The better question is, why the desire for fully adjustable UCA’s while retaining the small ball joints? Since that will likely mean retaining the factory brakes and small bolt pattern, which means probably not running really wide tires, which reduces the need for a fully adjustable UCA anyway.
But if you really wanted fully adjustable and wanted to keep the factory small ball joint spindles, it might be worth reaming those spindles to take a large upper ball joint so you could use the SPC’s.
The factory upper a-arms are not adjustble, just the mounting bolt location is. I have -3 degrees of caster as my car is set-up with offset bushings and trying for the most caster.Define "fully adjustable" for us. The factory upper arms are "fully adjustable". They just don't have the range of caster adjustment some of the aftermarket arms do. Do we assume you mean arms with adjustable heim joints? That's gettin mighty fancy for a street car. What are you intentions with the car?
I am running the factory 4 piston disc set-up & do not want to get rid of that, may just have to ream out the upper mount.The better question is, why the desire for fully adjustable UCA’s while retaining the small ball joints? Since that will likely mean retaining the factory brakes and small bolt pattern, which means probably not running really wide tires, which reduces the need for a fully adjustable UCA anyway.
But if you really wanted fully adjustable and wanted to keep the factory small ball joint spindles, it might be worth reaming those spindles to take a large upper ball joint so you could use the SPC’s.
I will check those SPC arms out and I am really curious about the taller bolts, that could really help alleviate some of my caster issue.SPC Gen I and Gen II and Hotchkis.
@BergmanAutoCraft can set you up with the SPC options. You can also add taller ball joints at the same time with his Howe options.
We have the SPC arms in three versions. They offer the largest range of adjustment of any arm on the market. Since they don't use eccentrics, the alignment process is much easier than eccentrics ever were. 2 of our SPC arms offer taller ball joints which is a geometry improvement all around. If you are purchasing a different arm for your project, you are misinformed. Make the right choice and shop with a pro and site supporter, not the guys with big ad budgets shoving parts down everyone's throat.
Bergmanautocraft.com Spend your money once and do it correctly while knowing what your buying and why.
It’s hard to believe you are at -3 with offset bushings.The factory upper a-arms are not adjustble, just the mounting bolt location is. I have -3 degrees of caster as my car is set-up with offset bushings and trying for the most caster.
I hope you mean positive caster...I run 7.5 degrees positive like a modern car.It’s hard to believe you are at -3 with offset bushings.
What do you think the control arm mounting bolts adjust? The frame? They most certainly are adjustable.The factory upper a-arms are not adjustble, just the mounting bolt location is. I have -3 degrees of caster as my car is set-up with offset bushings and trying for the most caster.
I am running the factory 4 piston disc set-up & do not want to get rid of that, may just have to ream out the upper mount.
I will check those SPC arms out and I am really curious about the taller bolts, that could really help alleviate some of my caster issue.
So you are setting your caster backwards to make clearance between your tire and the header?It is negative caster, I know how to correctly put offset bushings in, I did alignments for several years at a shop & understand suspension geometry. I’m not doing a pro touring lowered car, it’s not at all the ideal set-up, I’ve got fenderwell headers, short 24.75” tall tires & need it taller than stock height.
No, I’m am not setting it up for negative caster that would be idiotic, I want 6 degrees of positive & need adjustable a-arms to achieve that which was the purpose of this post.So you are setting your caster backwards to make clearance between your tire and the header?
Your statement about pro touring lowered cars is a bit ignorant, ya think? ALL of these cars benefit from more caster. Until recently, we just didn't have the parts to achieve modern numbers. An experienced guy like you should know this.
I'm confused. I read this from your earlier post - It is negative caster, I know how to correctly put offset bushings in, I did alignments for several years at a shop & understand suspension geometry. I’m not doing a pro touring lowered car, it’s not at all the ideal set-up, I’ve got fenderwell headers, short 24.75” tall tires & need it taller than stock height.No, I’m am not setting it up for negative caster that would be idiotic, I want 6 degrees of positive & need adjustable a-arms to achieve that which was the purpose of this post.
I'm confused.