Recent content by 1968 Dart 270

Yep,connections are clean and on tight. The battery has never given me a problem before. I changed the regulator 6 days ago. Ran the car for a minute to test it. Backed it out to do that,then drove it back in. Either there's got a be a voltage drain or the battery was damaged. Guess im going to...

I havent been able to locate my fluke meter to test the voltage. Searched all over yesterday. Anyway,I had started the car up on Monday and backed it out,put it back in the garage. Today 6 days later the battery is completely dead. Either the battery was destoryed in the minute or so it was...

Nope,there's this thing called work that I have to get up and do at 6am this morning so that means getting up at 5am. So no,I didn't screw around with it further last night.dig out my mulitmeter,etc. It will have to wait until Sunday. The fun never ends.

Replaced the regulator, seems to discharge more at idle and shoot over to the right light the other one at light throttle. Difference is now that the headlights flicker when accelerating the ammeter needle flickers back and further when it goes toward the right. Here's a photo of where it's going

Yes I will do that. Is it common for these alternators to fail and start putting out a ton of voltage and overwhelm the regulator? My finned mopars have generators. Never had this issue before

I've owned the car for about 2 years. Driven it around had the 7 1/4" rear go bad,replaced it with 8 3/4" and started driving it again leaking steering box and all. The alt meter would always rise when it accelerated,but within the normal operation parameters on the meter. It just started...

So if this new regulator doesn't solve the issue,the alternator would be the next in line? What i don't get is why it was fine all this time.drove it to work. Went to go home then it's doing it starts doing it. At idle the gauge is dead center. Touch the accelerator and it climbed near the end...

Haven't had a chance to test it yet with work and all. Got the regulator today. Yes rebuilt parts aren't as good as they once were. They are charging 88 dollars and a 100 dollar core now for a rebuilt one,but it has a lifetime warranty so they will keep swapping it out if it fails..at least...

Got my new standard regulator today. Amazingly stamped on the bottom is MADE IN USA. Says it on the box too and it's not a vintage NOS piece.

Will you make the 1969 and earlier regulators look like factory original parts? I'm sure you could hide the electronics inside the same style housing

No,it was on there when I bought the car. I noticed it because it stood out being made of plastic like that. Oreillys has the standard vr101 for the same price as the plastic duralast autozone one. Same price,both have lifetime warranty. Or i can get it on Amazon brand new and save $22 but it...

I have no idea why it failed. Ive had the car a few years and it had that regulator when I bought it and it worked fine until today. Other people here had said the Standard vr101 was better than these Chinese plastic box replacements. It's 57 bucks plus tax for another one of the plastic ones...

Yeah I already tried that when it started happening. I turned the high beams on turn the blinkers on turned on every electrical thing to try and create as much drag as I could. I just pulled the wire off the alternator and drove home on the battery. One things for certain about this car it...

Well I looked for the old fashioned metal style of regulator that I'm used to seeing. The only thing I can see is this plastic piece of junk thats not original mounted to the firewall of the car

Thanks. I realized I forgot to State what year the car is it's my 1968 Dodge Dart 270 that has Factory 273 V8 everything is stock. The thing is if the voltage regulator is sticking would it still go down to the middle at idle? It's only when I touch the accelerator lightly that it goes all the...