Going from pre-70s V Reg to the newer post-70s V Reg Squareback

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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Ok I know this has been explained many times on this site. And I've even tried it on a few different alternators as I was swapping from Points to Electronic ignition.
66 dart, slanting
So I just need clear instructions on my current setup:
1. I have electronic ignition installed (junkyard HEI setup) and working
2. I have a OEM Chrysler Squareback alternator, which replaced my old roundback. It is working and I have grounded the 2nd terminal to the alt case as required.
3. I have installed the newer electronic voltage reg (blue one, that I sanded the blue paint off)
4. I have a ground wire directly connected to each item in the HEI set up, ending at the battery neg.
5. I have installed a relay for the ignition wire.

With this setup, I am running pretty good, voltage bounces around 13.9 - 14.4 at low idle. And stays 14.3 - 14.4 when driving at normal speed. Overall the headlights (all lights, cluster, dome etc...) have a quick flutter. More noticeable at idle than when driving.

So for ***** and giggles I want to try the later voltage regulator , the one that has the triangle plug. Just to see if it has any effect on lights or voltage fluctuations.
I have this one picture, but what I need to know, on this Squareback alt, I took a small wire and grounded the 2nd terminal to the case. Do I undo that? and run that wire to the newer Volt reg.?
Thanks for any help.
pic3.gif
 
Unground the one,splice into the blue wire that runs the the coil and the other one connects to the green wire on the reg plug.
 
Sounds like Butchery and uneeded expenditures IMO.

Do you have a stereo that needs 50amps of power? Good old round back with solid state factory looking V-Reg is all my car needs. I dumped the Mopar Blue just cause it did not look stock. Repo AGM yellow top battery and three years of great service!
 
gdizzle said:
Ok I know this has been explained many times on this site. And I've even tried it on a few different alternators as I was swapping from Points to Electronic ignition.
66 dart, slanting
So I just need clear instructions on my current setup:
1. I have electronic ignition installed (junkyard HEI setup) and working
2. I have a OEM Chrysler Squareback alternator, which replaced my old roundback. It is working and I have grounded the 2nd terminal to the alt case as required.
3. I have installed the newer electronic voltage reg (blue one, that I sanded the blue paint off)
4. I have a ground wire directly connected to each item in the HEI set up, ending at the battery neg.
5. I have installed a relay for the ignition wire.

With this setup, I am running pretty good, voltage bounces around 13.9 - 14.4 at low idle. And stays 14.3 - 14.4 when driving at normal speed. Overall the headlights (all lights, cluster, dome etc...) have a quick flutter. More noticeable at idle than when driving.

So for ***** and giggles I want to try the later voltage regulator , the one that has the triangle plug. Just to see if it has any effect on lights or voltage fluctuations.
I have this one picture, but what I need to know, on this Squareback alt, I took a small wire and grounded the 2nd terminal to the case. Do I undo that? and run that wire to the newer Volt reg.?
Thanks for any help.View attachment 1715043064
Click to expand...
In short, Yes. The wire labeled field(-)would be the one You had grounded previously, that terminal will now have the green field wire to the regulator control circuit.
The other wire field(+), can stay as is, the two wires You are removing or cutting from the old points reg. can be simply spliced together w/a 3rd added wire to the voltage
sense wire at the new regulator(Dk blue), just make sure the new regulator case is grounded by the screws & You're good to go.
 
Ok so I can just take the 2 wires currently on the regulator, spice them together with another wire that can then go to the new regulator? Even though I have a relay installed on my ignition wire?
Connecting the ground makes sense.
 
gdizzle said:
Ok so I can just take the 2 wires currently on the regulator, spice them together with another wire that can then go to the new regulator? Even though I have a relay installed on my ignition wire?
Connecting the ground makes sense.
Click to expand...
Affirmative.
 
Great this all worked out. Hard to say, but the voltage might be a wee-bit more steady, but still bounces 14.1 - 14.4.
I ended up mounting the new Regulator to the top of the fender well. Thanks everyone for your help.
I always wondered if regulation of the + vs. - was better or worse in terms of stability of the voltage.
 
gdizzle said:
Great this all worked out. Hard to say, but the voltage might be a wee-bit more steady, but still bounces 14.1 - 14.4.
I ended up mounting the new Regulator to the top of the fender well. Thanks everyone for your help.
I always wondered if regulation of the + vs. - was better or worse in terms of stability of the voltage.
Click to expand...
Voltage variations are entirely normal, brand new vehicles do it, as long as it's not wide & abrupt(say .7V+ quickly jumping up & down) You're good. A "change & recovery" is
normal when loads are applied & removed. Mopar decided controlling the ground was preferred at that point, but I can't say it had anything to offer stability-wise, that pretty
much is owned by the much faster switching transistors in the electronic regulators.
 
Here's the thing............IF you get a quality replacement regulator (for the early style wiring, pre 70) you may not gain a thing. The big disadvantage of the pre 70 regulator is that the ORIGINAL types are mechanical relay type. So far as I know all available replacements are actually "solid state."

One advantage "might" be that the 70/ later type is probably easier to find nowadays.

Also make sure if you don't now, that you eventually step up to at least a "square back" instead of a "round back" alternator.
 
67Dart273 said:
Here's the thing............IF you get a quality replacement regulator (for the early style wiring, pre 70) you may not gain a thing. The big disadvantage of the pre 70 regulator is that the ORIGINAL types are mechanical relay type. So far as I know all available replacements are actually "solid state."

One advantage "might" be that the 70/ later type is probably easier to find nowadays.

Also make sure if you don't now, that you eventually step up to at least a "square back" instead of a "round back" alternator.
Click to expand...
Lol, re-read the OP's opening post, already made the squareback swap. Just switching up to the like control system, which is completed at this point.................
 
67Dart273 said:
Here's the thing............IF you get a quality replacement regulator (for the early style wiring, pre 70) you may not gain a thing. The big disadvantage of the pre 70 regulator is that the ORIGINAL types are mechanical relay type. So far as I know all available replacements are actually "solid state."

One advantage "might" be that the 70/ later type is probably easier to find nowadays.

Also make sure if you don't now, that you eventually step up to at least a "square back" instead of a "round back" alternator.
Click to expand...

My question is what gain are you looking for?

Slant with nothing extra requires no more than a simple round back right?

The pre70 solid state regulators is about all that is available today.
 
Steady voltage through all rpm ranges and the ability to upgrade electrical components in the future. Thats why i upgraded. Also cheaper more readily available voltage regs.
 
1963dartgt said:
Steady voltage through all rpm ranges and the ability to upgrade electrical components in the future. Thats why i upgraded.
Click to expand...

I have that! Short of big electrical loads. That was my why question!
 
Not sure what you did, but seems to work. With the 1970's Vreq (triangle plug), at the ALT connect +12 V switched power to one field terminal (that can be from your new relay), the other (low-side) field terminal goes to the Vreg "fld" terminal (grn). That is termed "low-side control". On the Vreg, the blue wire goes to the +12 V you want to regulate (usually IGN from cabin, but the output of your new relay is better since closer to BATT+ value).
 
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