aftermarket shifter in factory console

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skep419 said:
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Good info

What did you end up doing with the reverse lockout?
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My wife made the boot from 4 triangles, like from the corners up to the knob. The reverse lock-out is basically at the seam of the front/left corner so I had her leave like a 1" spot unsewn, and popped the lever out through it.
 
joeboy said:
My wife made the boot from 4 triangles, like from the corners up to the knob. The reverse lock-out is basically at the seam of the front/left corner so I had her leave like a 1" spot unsewn, and popped the lever out through it.
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did you bolt the shifter to the floor?
 
skep419 said:
did you bolt the shifter to the floor?
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My car was a factory console car, so I mounted the console at the height I wanted and the guesstimated where I needed the shifter to sit for the best height of its pivot point in the console. Then I chopped off top portion of the factory shifter mount (don't tell the purists!) and welded a flat plate to the top of it that I bolted the shifter to.

IMG_0121.JPG
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Would like to hear more about this installation. Part numbers, etc.

Also like the @skep419 install.
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If u have safety harness, and long legs, u might want to move the shifter back, so u can reach it when your buckled up. I had to move my cheeta shifter back out of the orig. hole about 5 ". Which reqired a new home made top.
 
famous bob said:
If u have safety harness, and long legs, u might want to move the shifter back, so u can reach it when your buckled up. I had to move my cheeta shifter back out of the orig. hole about 5 ". Which reqired a new home made top.
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I don't have either.
I do have a B&M Quicksilver on the way, and would love any tips on making the console install and transmission hookup go smoothly. I am running a Lokar kickdown cable. Any interference issues between the two?
 
KnuckleDuster said:
I don't have either.
I do have a B&M Quicksilver on the way, and would love any tips on making the console install and transmission hookup go smoothly. I am running a Lokar kickdown cable. Any interference issues between the two?
Click to expand...

pull the front seats and the carpet. figure out where the shifter has to go first. the hook up the cable and mark the floor where the cable wants to go. then drill the hole. I used a punch to bend the metal so the cable fits better. (also used some left over fuel line with a slit cut in it to protect the cable where it goes through the floor and every other danger spot) cable gets routed down and towards the passenger side, between the trans and dipstick tube. I used one of the trans dust shield bolts and a clamp to keep it out of harms way. Adjust the cable with the trans in neutral. I'm sure I missed something but hope it helps.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
I don't have either.
I do have a B&M Quicksilver on the way, and would love any tips on making the console install and transmission hookup go smoothly. I am running a Lokar kickdown cable. Any interference issues between the two?
Click to expand...

Here is my take on a B&M Quicksilver in a factory console. I actually moved the console back a few inches and raised the shifter off the floor so it would be in a more comfortable position to reach. I run the Lokar kickdown with no interference issues, but it is close.

console 1.jpg


console 2.jpg
 
If you have to buy a new cable anyway, do yourself a favour and buy the heavy duty one.
 
Got it today. Cable is junk, and the shifter is missing lockout pins for 4th and the park position limiter.
Looked online and can't find them anywhere.
Anybody know a part# or got a set?

No brackets or lever for a 727 either.

So now I need the pins and clips, cable, and the bracket kit.
 
So, could one of you tell me what cable length works best?

I was also wondering, does anyone make an authentic looking pistol grip knob that will fit aftermarket shifters like the Quicksilver?
 
KnuckleDuster said:
So, could one of you tell me what cable length works best?

I was also wondering, does anyone make an authentic looking pistol grip knob that will fit aftermarket shifters like the Quicksilver?
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I went with a 5' HD cable. Running any kind of Headers will make it extremely difficult to run the cable the way B&M shows it on their installation instructions. I ran mine across the top of the transmission to the passenger side, then back across the front of the bellhousing to the linkage, as shown below.

shifter%20cable_zpsrcbc6ln2.jpg

(not my car, I'm running a dust shield)

Be sure to buy a heat sheath to run the cable in, as you'll still be pretty close to your Headers and it's better to be safe than sorry (ask me how I know).

It could be a pain to run and adjust, so be patient and don't ever force it.
 
KnuckleDuster said:
Got it today. Cable is junk, and the shifter is missing lockout pins for 4th and the park position limiter.
Looked online and can't find them anywhere.
Anybody know a part# or got a set?

No brackets or lever for a 727 either.

So now I need the pins and clips, cable, and the bracket kit.
Click to expand...
Bracket kit you need for A904, A727

Screenshot_20171006-201225.png
 
I know this is a few months old...but this is the one I plan on using in mine. Luckily someone else has already cut up the the top plate so I won’t feel like crap when I have to cut it to make it work!!!

B8970038-D5D8-4922-820E-0796D0289844.jpeg


08A35000-D012-4DA5-B965-418260347818.jpeg
 
Niiice. What factory shifter pieces were modified and used for that install? What body type is it mounted in? I suspect E body. Floor in backround doesnt look like an A body
 
Charger-

Hurst V-Matic or B&M Megashifter?


Does anyone have two of these "limiter block out pins"??
...or know where to get them??

I even called B&M...the guy I talked to was kinda rude, like I was asking a stupid question. Very unhelpful. He told me to "just use bolts.", but bolts pinch the shifter mechanism.

Screenshot_2018-07-15-13-14-58.png
 
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