Search results for query: *

The hall effect pickup in that distributor is generally a pretty reliable setup as far as that goes. No physical advance mechanisms; the advance curves are all in lookup tables in the SMEC or SBEC. I had plans refined to just short of the buy-hardware-and-go-try-it-out stage, to put a vacuum +...

Faulty turn signal switch is prime suspect № 1.

See here and then here.

Tape a coin to your thumb or finger, whichever you'll be using to push the button. Now you have enough leverage to give it the hard push required.

Except it says "Body ground" where it should say "Good ground" (which means alternator housing or either end of the battery negative cable). Ammeter through '89, voltmeter starting in '90 on the D/W-trucks. But it was a shunt-type ammeter (not subject to the wire-melt problem), not a...

Turn distributor upside down so the drive pinion is pointing toward you. Notice how the distributor hold-down plate is held to the underside of the distributor body with a bolt. Notice how that bolt goes through a slot rather than a round hole. There you are. Also, if you're getting significant...

They're hella closer than much of what OP's mentioned looking at so far. This isn't 1964 or '74. Many parts and supplies available then, aren't now. We do the best we can. Dude asked for options. I provided some, and he might like one or more of them. Or he might not, but either way, I bet he...

OP said he'd seen the split loom but it was plastic and he wanted cloth, so I pointed at cloth. If he wants non-split cloth loom, I see some options here, here, and (heat-shrinkable!) here.

Cloth type is here.

It's basically widening and repaving the road from point A (alternator) more or less halfway to point B (battery), then just stopping and calling the job "done". You're going to have wire and apropriate tools out, why not do the whole job properly?

Read this.

Probably faulty turn signal switch.

Voltage drop due to resistance in the wires going both ways through the firewall, the contacts in the ignition switch, the bulkhead and ignition switch connectors, and the Main Weld in the dashboard wiring harness. If you want rid of that volt drop, put in an ignition relay. Overspecify it, buy...

The ballast resistor is bypassed during cranking.

Back when these brands we're tossing around (Accel, MSD, Holley…) were actual companies engineering and making their own stuff, with the makers speaking the same language as the engineers, feedback was relevant; it was "actionable", as the saying goes. Now they're just zombie brands slapped on...

Here's the TSB on servicing the Motorola transistor ignition factory-available to fleets on the '66 models.

This is from an article in Popular Science, December 1962, about transistor ignitions. It's even got A-body content! The price equates to about $810 (eight hundred and ten dollars) in today's money. The distributor cap trouble the author had was probably because his car had not yet had this...

Only the headlamps are brightened by putting in a relay harness. If you want the rest of the lights brighter/working better, check/improve the grounds at all four corners of the car, make sure the feed wires and all connections are in good condition, and do like this.

Nope, that's a set of Capaci-Points. First pair I've seen an actual photo of; here are pics of where I know this from. This 1977 book was in my high school library—it's a low-level car maintenance manual stuffed with promotional sorta-ads for relevant products of that time.

It has "Neato!" built right into the name.

HEI upgrade. Performance at least as good as most aftermarket systems, much better reliability, and much less costly.

Two real good reasons to disbelieve that claim: 1. There's no such thing as "DOT approved" — it sounds all official-like, but it is a meaningless phrase. US and Canadian vehicle safety regs do not work on an approval basis; the DOT does not approve equipment. Whoever claims a car part is "DOT...

That's a screamin' deal on a solid pair of lamps and harness. They're ECE (Europe/rest of the world), not DOT, so if that matters to you or the authorities where you live, that would be a dealbreaker. Otherwise, pounce and enjoy. Aim per VOL specs at aim page.

Where'd someone suggest that? Good headlamps put light where you need it and, on low beam, keep it out of other drivers' eyes. Lousy headlamps don't do one and/or the other of those things. Speaking as the guy who wrote the (literal 38,500-word) book on the subject of headlight glare: you're...

No. Wagner never made a sealed beam headlamp with any virtue other than cheap. That has pretty much always been Wagner Lighting's primary specialty—vehicle lighting that (more or less) meets the legal requirements at lowest cost. For quite some years, the Philips and GE halogen sealed beams...

Ooh, groan. That's not one I know of a source for. They're probably available somewhere, given that you can buy whole new underdash harnesses ($$$$), and maybe they're a generally-available type of connector, but I don't know the particulars. You might download the big cattledog from Terminal...

KITTY!!!

Spotted this Funkatronic (wasn't the brand name, but shouldacoulda been) Solid State IGNITION! system on eBay in 2008. Seller said it was worth buying for the box art alone. I already had more than enough miscellany in my collection, so I just yoinked the pic. Far-out, man! …which reminds me...

That's a wise idea. As others have stated, the factory-type '68 markers will look at home. Mount them so they're looking as close to straight-out as possible (not angled up or down). If I were in your shoes, though, I wouldn't put the '68 markers in. Instead I'd put in the fish-shaped ones...

A+ for A56, who put up my kind of detailed and accurate description of the relevant lighting specs and regs. Why sudden interest in side-on visibility of cars? Here's an image from a 2010 tech talk on the subject by one of America's rockstar vehicle lighting optical engineers, who started his...