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Thanks guys! Since posting this I found a couple helpful videos. I grounded the sending unit to the body. (Didn't fix it) I tested the mechanical gauge voltage limiter. (seems to be working) Still isn't working. I did find some random wires with connectors that were just hanging and had 12V. No...

I have searched online for this with no clear explanation... Car is a 72 Duster. I am not at all a wiring guy clearly lol.I have determined the wire going to the sending unit is blue then goes into a connector in the driver side kick panel. From there I have no idea. I did put a new tank and...

That's kind of the ballpark I was hoping for. Not sure I'd let it go for less than 15. I probably have 17k in it plus who knows how many hours.

More pics...

Hate to ask but its another "whats it worth" post. 72 Duster Original 318 car, Super solid and straight car. No bondo that I can find. Old thin re-paint is flaking off in spots. Only rust is a small hole in the trunk behind the passenger wheel well and a few rust bubbles under the tail lights...

Put in the new gas tank, got it all plumbed, got the hood back on and buffed to match the rest of the car. Bonus... The 4" air cleaner fits! I keep raising the front end everytime I drive it around the block and when I get back it's low again. Must just be settling from all the new suspension...

Put on the Canton oil filter adapter. The stock nut is ridiculous. I swore I was going to strip it. I went and bought a cheap socket and cut the end off to get it off since the nut is so shallow. ‍♂️ but I got it! Hopefully no more oil leaks!

Looking good!

Dropped the fuel tank, fixed a bit of wiring, cleaned the carb because of said fuel tank, ordered a new fuel tank and sending unit lol. The 10 years of sitting with ethanol fuel pretty much rotted everything away including the float!

Such a cool car. Definitely crossed my mind to LS swap my Duster but I didn't want to watch out for Mopar guys lurking in the shadows with a knife.

We did something similar to this when I raced outlaw karts with cr500 engines. We would put a carb jet in the return line otherwise it would starve the carb for fuel and just send it all back to the tank. Interesting how stuff crosses over.

I am using a similar filter on a LS1 in my truck. They came in corvettes. It's actually a regulator and filter in one. Whatever the engine won't use or what's over the psi of the regulator it diverts it back to the tank. I wonder if it's a similar deal.

That makes sense. So are the caps vented on these then?

It's a vent I assume was attached to maybe a canister or manifold possibly as the very beginning of smog stuff?

Ah. Well that line in the engine bay was attached to the sender.

Haha this one was plugged with who knows what. But I'm putting in a new tank and sender so I was thinking about just plugging it off and getting a cap that vents. Idk how well that would work.

Sorry. It's a 72 Duster not sure what the previous owner did or if these come with canisters or anything. It's just a open metal line on the passenger side fender well in the engine bay.

I'm sure this has been discussed but I'm bored and want to annoy you guys. The stock tank vent... What do you do with it? Mine was plugged so I thought about just running a line out behind the bumper with a axle housing type vent on it. Not sure if that's a great idea though since the exhaust...

Yes I believe that is the one. I know it's 12v and 1.4 ohms.

If it helps at all this is the ignition system I have.. However it came on the car and the guy I got it from did say he ran this edlebrock coil and ran it through the balast resistor that was in his truck originally and it worked fine. So I'm really not sure what direction to go from here lol...

Oh I guess that might help huh haha. It's a 72 Duster original 318 car but the engine is a 318 out of a 69 D100. Thanks alot for the info that's awesome.

Gotcha. Is there a guide to exactly what wire goes where when eliminating the resistor? I'm a visual guy unfortunately. I took the wires off the resistor and used a butt connector to splice them together. But above he said to wire the + side from the coil into the new system? I assume this...

Here's another question. Is there any downside to running the resistor? If not I'll just put a new one in lol.

OK so I'm finding conflicting info on this. The setup I have is the pro form electronic ignition system with a edlebrock 12v max fire coil. The coil itself says a balast resistor is not required. Couldn't get the car to start with the one that's in there hooked up. Jumped the wire and it ran so...

Haha ya this motor actually has a few hundred miles on it. The guy I got it from had it in a truck and decided to go Cummins.

Thanks all! Really appreciate it. Can't wait to get it on the road.

72 Duster - Should be on the road tomorrow. Just bought it a few weeks ago. Been sitting for 10 years. Put a different motor/Trans in it and basically replaced all the suspension/brakes. 7x (multiple years put together) Chevy LUV - getting back halfed right now. Will have an LS1/CD009/9"...

Finally after working on her for a couple weeks I got to hear it fire up. just a little 318 with a 455 lift cam, Wieand stealth intake, long tubes and heads redone to handle the cam. Haven't tuned the carb or anything yet. Mind you this motor came out of a running and driving truck just not with...

Thanks me too. Second set I own lol.