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Not sure where you are reading power and am assuming that you mean at the positive battery cable. So, I'm doing a wild *** guess and will go with the fuseable link. Are you getting voltage at the fuse block on the main "RED" battery feed. If not it's probably the fuseable link. i learned the...

No kidding. Just in my Duster schematics there are many common sources of battery. Recently I had quite a time with a blown fuseable link that took way too long to find due to me not paying attention to the original problem and assuming that I was correct in the direction I took. And...

To begin with, my background is digital hardware/software engineering and design. So I'm not trying to be a jerk or a know-it-all and my comment isn't meant to contradict anyone, but, older automotive electrical systems are not digital, I'm just trying to get you in the right direction. I...

The problem was the diodes in the alternator. Had it rebuilt and its up and running!

The other day my '72 Duster lost all electrical. The fusible link melted. Nothing works including the dome light, no headlights, no electric fuel pump, the whole system is dead! The problem is beyond the bulkhead on "J". I've disconnected all three bulkhead connectors (also the battery grd...

I've determined that the fusible link is bad. The battery is good up to the connector part of the fusible link but not at the bulkhead. Is the wire from the connector to the bulkhead the actual fuse? What is the best way to replace it? Should I get a fusible link from someone like Napa...

Thanks for confirming that option.

Thanks 69signetv8, I'll give it a try tomorrow. I checked out your link, you have a real nice car.

I'm trying to remove my old gear reduction starter in my '72 Duster. It has Hooker ProComps and power steering. I'm trying to avoid lifting out the engine (or at least half ways out) to get the starter out and replace it with the 98 Dakota mini starter. One way I'm looking at, is to...