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Centre links are symmetrical right? I assume having it backwards would not cause this issue.

Hi Peter, I bought a Borgerson box from you recently but have not installed yet. I think you said that the Borgerson box wants 12-1300 psi, what's the ideal pressure to give the pump? Does the steering feel change much depending on pressure?

What lower control arm pivot and bushing did you have when you got +8° with generic tubular upper control arms? I think I remember reading that some lower control arm bushings push the control arm back giving you less positive caster.

It was lucky to have someone who could go hands on! For stuff like this it can for sure be difficult to explain in text. I'm doing an engine swap once the car is straightened so I figure I can just weld in something new and remove the old mount down the line. After measuring we started to...

I ended up scrapping the jig and with the help of my dads friend (who has built many many cars) we located the idler arm and mount by carefully taking a of of measurements. We have sure the distance between the pivot points of the idler and pitman were the same along with a bunch of other...

I'm not sure if its a good reference either. Its that or the k member from the crash is more messed up than I thought, although it looks mostly fine. I took this into account thank you, got it within a few mm although the idler does have some play in it up and down, might try to remove that in...

I'm starting to think that this might be the case, I cant see what else it could be. Since I'm really under time pressure to get the car on four wheels and away to get the chassis straightened I'm thinking about doing the following: Installing the centrelink to give me the height of the idler...

It was definitely a good idea to tack it and check before. The idler is way too high, I didn't even need need to check with the centre link. It might be 1 inch too high or a little more :realcrazy:

Today I made a jig similar to what moparmatt did, instead of having a tube I welded on a bolt to locate the centerline and had a metal plate to locate the top of the idler mount. I was very surprised by the result, the whole mount sits much higher than on the k member it came from. The tabs...

Fantastic thank you! I will copy exactly the way matt has done it, very clean. Its so simple when you can see the solution :thankyou:

Thank you all for the input, ill get going on this job asap :thumbsup:

I'm fixing a 69 Dart that was in an accident and needs a new K-member. I sourced the red one a while ago and welded all the seams but when I went to install it the idler arm mount of more different than I thought. After some reading I think that the new one is a 67 and therefore has another...

That is interesting thank you, aiming for+6° caster might be a happy medium then.

Has anybody had any bad experiences with running too much caster on a power steering car? It seems like the only downside is steering effort which should not be a problem with power steering?

Did you just do this with a hand held drill and test fit the new big ball joint until you were happy? I read in a different tread where autoxcuda said this will not weaken the spindles enough to worry about it and that the ball joint stud will break first anyways so that is good. It also seems...

These look really nice and the price is great so I would consider getting them instead. My only question is should the piece that holds the ball joint not be at an angle? It is at an angle on the original arms as well as Hotchkis and a few others to compensate for the overall arm being slanted...

Ill shoot him a message, he sells them without ball joints it seems. BAC SPC Upper Control Arms - Bergman Auto Craft

Did you ever get those spindles reamed? The machine shop would have to have a piece with the same taper as the bigger ball joint I assume. I emailed SPC today asking about changing the ball joint on the arm to the smaller pre 72 one but got this answer: "Looking back at a bunch of old...

From what I have read moving the battery to the back is very important. I remember some article saying it can improve weight distribution up to 2%, not sure what car this was on. It does kind of make sense as your not only removing ~40lb from the front your adding it to the rear of the car...

Bringing a very old thread back to life but is this true that you have to unload the suspension to adjust the cams? Im getting ready to do my own alignment but if you have to jack the car up every time you make an adjustment it seems like it going to be a lot harder than I thought..

Use Moog offset bushings for the upper control arms. Pretty sure you want more caster no matter what you use the car for.

Thanks for the input! Going to reuse the original ones as the threads are the same. Otherwise they are very nice pieces from pst.

Im installing the pst lower control arm bushings and pivot shafts. As you can see in the pictures the bolts provided have three indentations on them. These stop the bolts from threading on easily by hand, when you use a wrench to tighten the bolts these dimples sort of lower the height of the...

Wow, that really looks seriously good

Very very cool I have often thought about boxing that section behind the rear seat. Think it will have much affect? I have heard that non hart tops or post cars are stiffer back there so there could be some flex and movement going on.

Have you ordered them yet?

Awesome build will build following! Might steal your idea with the front air dam design it looks really good, Im currently stiffening the body up in my build thread too.

Pressing or pushing them out did not work for me the welds or metal that you weld on just kept breaking. Hammering them out with a metal rod worked great though.

Unless you have tightened the cam bolts like crazy I think a bit of resistance when moving new parts for hand should be fine.

Thanks alot, did some more reading and missed that somehow. Its seems that PST bushings usually fit without problems so will probobly give them a go.