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I used an Aspen pedal with a bit of sheet metal to get it in the right spot. The Aspen's brake pedal pad was a direct fit too, so the pedals match

Run the tach off the MSD tach output wire. When MSD says "This is the ONLY wire you should run to the negative terminal of the coil," they mean it.

Battery grounds are theoretically best, but for an MSD box that doesn't have to take precise analog voltage measurements, it won't make a difference if you ground to the block. I've seen a few horror stories where someone got creative with the grounds for one of those and used a badly grounded...

Yes. Or to put it another way, connect the two connectors on the ends of the ballast resistor together and run the blue coil positive wire to the MSD box

If you're having trouble with the belt not being tight enough, you can replace the alternator bracket with a rod with spherical bearing at each end, circle track style. Much easier to set and keep belt tension than a slot.

I switched from a single to dual reservoir without changing the pushrod and with no issues. I used an A-body cast iron MC; you may need more length if you use an aluminum two bolt MC and an adapter.

I used a stock replacement '89 318 truck alternator. My Dart is running EFI and electric fans as well as the MSD 6A.

IIRC I had to do some sort of trick with exactly how I taped the pins so they wouldn't snag.

Another one who's happy with the switches Dan sells. It takes a bit of doing to figure out how to thread the wires through the column, though, so if you can swap out just the cam it's worth a try.

I had one in a '98 Buick Regal because it was cheaper than reupholsetering the stock seat. Used some angle iron to fit it to the stock mount so I retained the original power adjustment. I wish it had been about an inch or so wider (I weigh about 210 lbs on a good day) but other than that it was...

When all else fails, you can clamp the Lokar cable to the gas pedal. Signed, the lunatic with a 4.6 Ford throttle body on a slant six.

On my Dart, I just used a baseball bat in between the tire and inside of the fender lip to push the fender lip outward a little to get more clearance. Basically folded the inside lip against the outside of the fender, and it makes a difference. I'm running 225/50R16s with no rubbing. The...

Slant Six Dan has a great update on what's bright and what's hype on the LED headlight market here: 7-inch LED headlamp update - Slant Six Forum

I went straight to Dan for a complete turn signal switch myself. You'll need to email him to set up an order. There's a decent chance swapping in the cam alone will fix it, but if it doesn't, I'd go straight for one of Dan's switches and skip local parts stores and other cheap replacements.

I've found a tip from the circle track world if the kit doesn't fit and you need new parts: Rods with spherical bearings on each end make great upper alternator brackets. Much easier to adjust by spinning a rod than sliding the alternator in a slot.

Nicely done!

What's the goal? Looks period correct? Durable? Drag car? Good mileage? Good street handling? Lowest lap time around Road Atlanta? Define the job, then pick the right tool for it.

Also consider an https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15778"]over the valve cover fuel line reroute[/url]. The fuel in the line absorbs a lot of heat from sitting on the water pump.

Nicely done. Looks a lot cleaner than my combination of a circle track radiator and electric fans mounted to a "shroud" that obviously started off as a cookie sheet.

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed.

Correct, this is my 1966 Dart sedan. I did at one point own a Spitfire, but of the Triumph variety.

Looks like I may have connected it a bit wrong after replacing the tank and the FSM is a little unclear. If you have a picture of how they're supposed to be run, let me know.

Remember that a malfunctioning ignition system can dump a lot of air into the exhaust and give a false lean reading. I'm suspecting the plug wires as they were the last thing changed.

Easy button is to just use a bulkead fitting with a gasket for the return tube. If you are replacing the gas tank, though, I'd weld a sump (as long as you're welding, starting with a cake pan is about as easy as one of the premade sump kits) to the bottom of the tank and use the sending unit as...

I used an epoxy sealer, but only because I'd bodged together a sump out of a cake pan and didn't trust my welding. If I had used the tank stock, I wouldn't have bothered with any prep.

Billets may be a bit dated now, but I have 16" x 7" American Racing Spinnaker rims on my Dart. Large bolt pattern, if you were wondering.

That's actually a much more solid way to install them than what the instructions said to do and how I installed mine. I don't like the way the tabs hang down, as it reduces ground clearance, so you might want to consider bending the lower tab on the bars and using a bolt through the bottom of...

A manual to manual master cylinder swap won't require a new master cylinder pushrod.

In that case, you're asking the wrong question - you should be asking what bolt pattern your brake kit is. Many brake upgrades change the front bolt pattern and it's easier to just change the rear to match.

All '73-up upper control arms are the same, so don't overlook the drum brake ones. You can keep the stock lower control arms but need to swap ball joints.