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I know that a lot of folks ***** about Mopars being butchered. I have myself. - But the fastbacks with a ton of tire tucked behind the wheel wells has such an iconic appearance. It's the epitome of the 'you don't want to f*ck with me' look when you're at the stop lights. Naturally you'll be...

:shock: WOW, that really sounds like you aren't going to be buying a stepladder soon to get into one of your cars. :love8: Can't we all just get along? LOL! :protest: I'm not a big fan of the days that everybody and their dog ran air shocks. Front alignment was a nightmare and handling...

I know that leaf spring Mopars weren't prone to wheel hop because they had such a short leaf section in front of the axle. Will the movement cause problems if you're going to drag race it?

We had purchased the full set of 4 (double adjustables) for our '68 Charger project. When my son bought the '70 Roadrunner he decided to pull them off the shelf and put them on it. I'm not sure how he's got the shocks adjusted now but I don't like the ride. I assume that with some tuning we'd...

Yes, Redfish is right. Of course you will need to compare the 2 steering gears to make sure that you've got one that is an easy replacement for your power unit. But as long as it is you should be in business.

I did the swap on my Barracuda and had the same question back then. Yes. All you should need is that adapter. I bought a used FIRM FEEL adapter and cleaned it up. The manual box necessitates an extension on the steering shaft.

Most everyone is familiar with body damage caused by severe twist. It was very apparent on the '68 Charger R/T that we'd bought. The rear quarter was ripped next to the door seam on the left side and the right side sail panel had a noticeable dip in it. After replacing the quarters we decided...

I agree. My son spent his $$ on them but there's no way I would have spent that much myself.

A set of 4 of the QA1 double adjustables ran us almost $1000 for the Charger. I'm thinking the Gabriels might be the way I'll go. - Although those aluminum bodied QA1s sure are pretty!

I went looking for the same thing and I haven't been able to find any (reasonably priced) ones yet. I'd hate to have to dish out for more QA-1s. Hopefully someone knows a source.

Check your leaf spring shackles. A few years back I had one 'flip' on me and it caused an immediate ride height change on that side.

Another factory I worked at built seat frames for the automakers. They would run tests with machinery designed to repeatedly stress welded assemblies. The equipment would run day and night, simulating the amount of wear and tear that would accumulate over years of use. They looked for...

I worked years as a welder for a semi trailer manufacturer. When I asked why some areas were not welded solid I was told that it was a safety precaution. They said that if an area of a continuous weld was to fail, it would cause the separation of the entire piece over time. By stitch welding...

pm'd you back.

I've got a pair of +2 leaf springs made by Eaton that I pulled off my '67 Barracuda. I thought I already had them sold, but the buyer hasn't contacted me back about them for over 6 weeks. I was asking $50 plus shipping. The springs look almost like new. My only reason for removing them from...

Man, if this turns out to be the work of the factory, I'll have to keep it under my hat. If any of my Chebby buddies catch wind of this, I'll never hear the end of it.

I'd say no way. It looks like someone's had a torch in there.

So what was your solution? I used a butt load of that waxy grease that came with the kit and mine still made noise.

So what do you think was the root cause of the tire shake? Were the leaf spring bushings worn out? Was there an excessive amount of frame flex? I've never had trouble with a Mopar having a wheel shake (or hopping) problem. I'd always heard that the design of a shorter leaf section in front...

Well I'm sold on the idea of installing the frame connectors. After freshly assembling everything on the Barracuda, it's pretty rattle free right now. (those dang polyurethane bushings do tend to squeak a bit)

Lately I have been seeing some connectors that have brackets midway between front and back that bolt to the floor. My first thought was that they would allow less flex than the ones that only attached front and rear. - And that the installation would be easier than those that are welded...

So subframe connectors to prevent twist and the back torque boxes (or a similar form of frame gusseting) to keep the stress from the rear from transferring to the frame/body. Maybe the factory front boxes had more of an anti-twist purpose. All I'd ever heard was that the torque boxes were...

Thanks, 2Darts. That's a pretty good link to the article on torque box installation.

I have seen some frame connectors that simply attach to the front and back frames. And then I've seen others that are tied to the floor along the way. I've thought that the first style would still allow the frame to twist. (I've owned a number of B-bodies that showed quarter panel damage from...

But if the purpose of the torque boxes is to strengthen the points stressed by the suspension's forward push, wouldn't the frame connectors solve that issue too?

I never knew that convertibles had the torque boxes. Hmmm... - that's got me thinking.

On another thread someone suggested I consider adding torque boxes or subframe connectors to my car. It made me start to think about whether or not a person needed both or if the subframe connectors would negate the need for the torque boxes. Is one superior to the other. I assume that...

I had a set of them that I couldn't get to fit over the ends of the torsion bars. I tried putting them in boiling water to soften them up but it didn't help enough. So then I tried to microwave them (a mistake) and they began to distort. I ended up putting my old rubber boots back on. There...

Personally, I am glad to read differing opinions. I doubt I'll ever build two vehicles exactly alike. I think that when the topic seemed to turn into a pissing match, it actually got better. I saw guys defending their positions by extolling the benefits of various designs. When Rusty pointed...

I don't know if these pictures will help or not. We haven't installed it yet but this is a driveshaft loop that is intended to bolt onto the transmission cross member. 3 piece design constructed out of 1/4" steel with adjustment to locate the loop forward/back. It's actually assembled wrong...