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Oreillys had a new cylinder and the related pieces in stock for my dart. Pretty dang cheap also.

It's got some rust, A/C parts missing, slant 6, missing front seat, etc. But it runs! Two door darts dont sell very well around here. I doubt I could sell the 4 door. However, if someone is interested in it, it'll need a hood, bumper, and trunk. It has disc brakes, rear defrost, power...

There is a 4 door '68 dart for sale locally that my friend is looking at. He needs a hood, front bumper, and trunk lid for his '69 two door dart. Is the front clip same between a two and four door? Is the front and back glass the same?

Damn I thought is was 2018...

I used them on the DART and Swinger emblems on my 1970. The Dodge hood and trunk emblems use speed nuts.

The correct OE way to mount those emblems is with the plastic retainers. They slide onto the emblem stud first and then you push them into the hole on the car. I've never seen the metal ones used. I had to put the plastic pieces in boiling water to soften them up enough to slide onto the studs...

Mopar Windshield Wiper Linkage Bushings- 1973-1995- Qty.4- #010 | eBay That looks to be the correct bushing.

My '70 dart uses a nut to hold the little arm to the wiper motor. That arm is connected to the linkage with a clip and plastic bushing. That plastic bushing is what usually fails.

My 1970 dart also has a crack there!

Just wire brush the loose scale and clean it then apply some POR15 on it. Stuff works great on slightly rusty metal but won't stick to clean nice metal. I used it on a camaro sub frame and suspension 6 years ago. It looked good and was durable.

Look at the color difference in post #4 and post #5. Those are both untouched factory paint. That's a BIG difference in color. The shade of blue and metallic are different between the years.

The trunk, jambs, floor, etc in my 1970 dart are the same color as that picture. A lighter blue. But the car was repainted at some point in a darker blue. The 1970 paint chip book for b7 is dark blue like the repaint. 1969 b7 paint chips show the lighter blue. Did the color really change that...

Friend of mine has the same hood on his 69 dart. Is the top part of yours a separate piece from the hood?

Bought a new hole saw and used it in reverse! Keeps the teeth from digging in and breaking your wrists or messing up the metal.

I did it the same way on my '70 dart. I pushed a piece of the cardboard box over the studs to make a template of sorts. I then drilled out the rear holes in the hood like you described. Used those holes to locate the template. Easy to do. Used a 4" hole saw to cut the air inlet holes. Took about...

You don't need to brace anything unless you have a rust bucket. My car sat for a few months without the K and it's perfectly fine.

Pull the 4 bolts and remove it. Easy to do. I had my engine bay painted with the suspension on. Got it home from paint and removed the suspension for paint and refresh.

Get a donor roof. It's nothing but spot welds on some sheet metal. Brace the car (what's left of it) up really well drill out the spot welds. Remove the panels, prep and weld new ones on. Your going to need an entire roof. Skin, drip rails, inner roof braces, etc. You will need a nice clean...

It can be saved. But it'll need floors, frame rails, rockers, firewall and cowl, the entire roof, front clip, dash frame, door and quarter have large dents possibly worse. How much of the car would be "saved" vs being a new Cuda. I like that body style and all and I HATE seeing a decent car...

Ceramic coatings are EXPENSIVE. The paint has to be perfectly clean and buffed or else it'll be sealed in. The coatings typically need to be cured with UV lights. But they are worth the money in the long run, very durable, easy to clean and make the paint glossy like an extra coat of clear!

That is the best pic I have of it in the sun. I ended up having to pull the engine back out due to blowing a headgasket and damaging a cylinder. So I spent my paint money on rebuilding the engine. I bolted the front end back on it and have been driving the wheels off of it. The color has grown...

I use it. But it sure stinks like hell when you start welding over it.

The guy that did my engine bay sanded it down to bare metal. I didn't get a pic of it after it was sanded completely. Said he couldn't trust how good some 45+ year old paint was. I'm sure it took him awhile since some places can't be done with a DA.

They pop up for sale pretty often. Put a wanted ad and you will probably have some within a few days

I have a spoiler by randy on my 70. It looked great but has taken a beating with the daily commute and needs a repaint. I still love it.

I pressed cardboard over the studs on my scoops and traced them out. So I had a perfect template of the scoop shape and stud locations. I centered two holes from the bottom of the hood and drilled them out. Then set the template on there and used the two drilled holes to align it. I used a drill...

Nope. It's a 468ci carb'ed big block with a Muncie M22.

A buddy did it on his '71 Chevelle. He cut 5 or so inches out and welded it up. Then went to the next section. He shaved the bumpers, handles, trim, marker lights, drip rails, flush mounted the front and rear glass. It makes a big difference in the overall look. I like it.

I've done it in a friends car for weight removal purposes. We mixed dry ice and rubbing alcohol in a bucket and poured it onto the floor pan, let it sit for a few minutes to chill. Then scrape and chip it off. Worked pretty good I though.