Search results for query: *

Dana 60 has a more efficient gearset than 8 3/4. Most run exactly the same or a little quicker after switching to Dana.

I always assumed it was a 5 x 4.5 bp.

Will be thick tubes, you can neck it down near the housing with thinner 3" tube if you're concerned about weight. Have the stubs welded around the housing as well.

I switched to a rear exit cable on my B&M Pro Stick.

Yes but rotate passenger side.

For less than half that money, he could have bought a complete C body rear with 11" brakes, bought new A body axles, paid a shop to narrow the housing.

Yeah it's a perfect swap for a Duster/Demon, the flared quarters make the body the perfect width for this rear and standard old style wheels. I think Swingers/Valiants require some modern style positive offset wheels.

'65-'67 is a little narrower than '68-'70.

Look at the bottom edge...it's a 9 1/4, probably from a '70s B or C body

If you really want to strengthen the tubes without adding a ton of weight, replace them with CM seamless pipe of roughly the same size. MUCH stronger. Then add a back brace.

IMO if you're planning to race and worried you might bend it, just build a Dana 60.

A previous owner could have swapped center section for better mileage. Or it could have been born with it...maybe 340 cars didn't get the big pinion center? Not sure.

It's basically a core truck housing (~$100), backing plates (~$50), and a core 741 case (~$50). If it has the ratio he wants to use, then decent deal at $250. If not, it's a bit overpriced.

So about 196 pounds disassembled. Figure about 200-205 with all seals, gaskets and gear oil. Dana 60 of the same width and 35 spline axles is a little over 220.

Don't cut a '65 B-body rear axle, sell it to a Duster/Demon owner. Find a C-body or truck axle to narrow and get some new BBP axles.

Buy your rims/tires and mount them. If you plan to mini tub, go ahead and do that. Level and plumb the car. Prop up the wheels in the wheel well to where you want them to sit. With both wheels aligned with CL of car, and centered in wheel opening, measure inside-inside of the wheel bolting...

I like 3.91 for a street/strip 440, probably the same results for your 408.

Part number is National 8695 S, pretty cheap about $3 each. Install just use a big socket and tap it in square.

I just said hang onto it lol. I don't know of any sources...maybe Dr Diff knows?

Buy it cheap, hang onto it. 7.25 sg are rare.

A body axle shafts are 28 inches long. They stick out from the housing on each end, so it won't be "axle length + axle length = housing width"

Housing end to end is 52 5/8

Depends on a few things. Is it the exact width you need? Was it narrowed with a jig, and is it still straight? Good penetration on the welds? What kind of axles? Also check housing for wiped out side bearing saddles, some don't bother checking before they throw time and money at it.

Prove it? This guy actually weighed his axles and showed us. Not stock but built comparable: Moser Engineering Rear Ends?

You're right...it's less Moser Engineering Rear Ends?

Gotcha...you can still sell that off and recoup some of your $ to build the d60. On top of being stronger, the dana will be more efficient and about the same weight or lighter than an equivalent 8.75. Moser Engineering Rear Ends?

1) Don't cut an oem A-body housing and 2) go ahead with the Dana 60. If you're narrowing a rear, now is the time.

B body in Dart/Valiant works if you're planning to run modern wheels with alot of backspace. Stock type wheels you'll be rubbing the lip. That rear works perfect in Duster/Demon/Dart Sport, as they have flared out quarter panels, and the rear moves the wheels out to be the same track width as...

24" is pretty much all A bodies as far as I know.