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IT will FIT...But they aint the same

YES I know it is pictured in a belvedere but they are the same as cuda in 67

No.... first one is 68 second one is a 69 third one is a 67... NOTE: the stock plastic wheel is very simlar to the wood wheel displayed...same center etc etc

2 kids...Pretty sure I have a set of brackets...but we can talk about that later.... the difficult part is determining where to put the HOLE and where to mount the brackets..... I dont know of ANY templates and I had to move mine ONCE to get the positioning right....otherwise you cant find...

It appears as though they are exactly the same from 69 thru76 and for both dodges and plymouths: Layson's Restorations 1971 Dodge Swinger IP-DPA6976V Top Dash Pad - Black - Vinyl Wrapped version 69 -76 A-Body $325.00 1972 Plymouth Duster IP-DPA6976V Top Dash Pad -...

unfortunately...my experience with used pads is that they are pretty much in the same or similar shape as yours started out to be OR they are whole and appear nice but are brittle as those Belgium thin wafer cookies! I have tried several and everyone of them has cracked during installation...

LMAO!!! while your method is surely faster...re-installing that puppy is going to be a serious venture...trying to get all those pieces to line up...and the glue you will need a tone of it!!! LOL On the serious side...if you are using someplace like JUST DASHES, they charge quite a bit...

IN a Street car/rod/modified/resto RADIO no doubt!!! I was going to do one of those "STOCK RADIO CONVERSIONS" where they swap out the guts and put in some groovy new electronics.... then I went to a pretty large park & shine about 65 miles north west of Detroit (about 50 miles from me.) One...

Hows the work on all that beveling going? how do the gauges fit? PIC PIC PIC LOL LIKE the 66 Dart touch that is cool

Really looks like an outstanding beginning.... you do have visual clearance for the dash pad as it relates to the top of the large gauges? A friend did one similar and when he put the dash pad in he could not see the top numbers on the gauge LOL he was pissed but he got over it and moved...

CUDABOY....if all you used was "hot glue" be prepared to RE-DO it likely in one season, esp if the summer heat gets over 90f ....hot glue is not made to withstand auto applications and all your nice hard work will need to get re-done. Automotive adhesives are specially formulated to withstand...

I have been involved with several dash pads being "covered" ( not recovered - covered) with vinyl, every one of them looked terrific.....NOW the down side.....because of the results from the first "covering"......in each subsequent case we ASKED specifically for different GLUE to be used and in...

I must be crazy I used legendary and the carpet is exactly like stock...a lil pricey but all molded, decent thickness and thread count with backing ...pretty impressive but again I think I paid a premium

66 dashes are FUNN

I would have to see them...pics?

dont think so....you should have pockets of material sewed into the bottom/inside of the seat cover. the rods will slip thru the pockets and attach below( thru the foam) to the springs via Hog Rings....if you dont have that you are using inexpensive repop seat covers and they will look kinda...

what he said!!!

I sanded mine....painstakingly long and arduous task but came out nice

I don't think I would use stripper of any kind on plastic stuff......if it is that bad sodablast? or some soft media....if you rough up the surface you can always sand it back....if you melt it with stripper you are lookin for another piece

Interesting question..... I guess if you are planning to sell the car or advertise the car as 1000% STOCK.... OR if you plan on building a BJ or mecums candidate then don't cut it. HOWEVER if you are building a street machine and changing the color of the car and changing the wheels of the car...

I have used a number of techniques in the past for doing raised letters...... what has worked for me is a long wooden q tip .......I kinda make it soft a few inches from where the work will happen....typically about 3 inches up so it kinda acts like a "universal" then I just cat the wood...

YOU GUYS DO KNOW ABOUT BEA parts right here in the US right? they are a PG classics partner and the shipping is regular US shipping, no Canadian tarriffs or taxes or duty..... You do know that right?

I prefer SEM, but they are pretty much the same....if you follow the directions and use the associated preparatory products, they will appear as if they were born that way.

Soldering iron is a good idea I have used it many times and like it was pointed out it seals the hole so unraveling is not a concern. once the carpet is laid in use a small scratch awl to find your holes....it does little damage when/if you miss.