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Shim it up....it should have no bearing...lol...I crack myself up sometimes.

It's possible but hard to tell

If I remember correctly the only 340's that were externally balanced were the late 1972 and the 1973's. Depends on crank design...forged or cast. What year's your engine? That looks like an internally balanced type but.....from what I've found that's from an internally balanced engine. I've...

This is what the summit site says about your new timing cover, "Made from quality materials for durability—and thicker than typical timing covers" So the question is, how much thicker? How much more room do you need to fully install your balancer? Assuming the balancer is the stock unit you...

I wonder if it will yellow with the heat like clear gloss paint over aluminum. I’ve cleared them and painted them. The clear gloss has always yellowed some but the colors seem to hold up better. This has only applied to painted manifolds not powder coated. That really does look awesome with that...

That looks great!

Very cool...for 50 bucks

Brooks those stock heads are going to run out of breathing room well before that. If I remember correctly A totally stock 5.9 could be safe up to 5500 even though the ECM was good to 6500. At 6300 you’ll be way past the power band and on the decline anyway and in my opinion in an unsafe range...

I used black as 318willrun has said, it’s oil resistant and better at the China walls where oil can reach it. Yes...get it as clean as possible and line the valley with rags to catch anything that might fall. You’ll be happy you did. You can bend a razor blade at a 45* angle which gives you a...

All of this.....you won’t have any problems.

I'm running an A518/46RH behind a 5.9 Magnum. I used the stock Magnum weighted flexplate, one hole elongated to fit, with the neutral balanced torque converter that came with the transmission. Thing runs smooth as silk. Essentially the same transmission as the A500.

You’ll need a drop base to be sure of no contact but it’ll fit.

That’s one good looking truck.

Also I don’t think you really need that carb spacer with that air gap manifold. I know it looks cool though. Illuminating that would prob help with alignment issues and allow the arc movement to be smoother as Dave said.

I know it’s not exactly the same set up as it’s an automatic but you get the idea on the return spring.

I have that same carb and one of the first things I did was cut the Ford kick down bracket right off it. I’d read some things about it binding at WOT that I didn’t like and we don’t need it anyway. I did try to bind it up at WOT before I cut it off just to see and sure enough there’s not much...

Hahaaa.. ty..I’ll def try harder. Bummer.

That valley looks very clean.

This is the pan I’ve got. Looks like the full sized truck pan. It’s here if it’ll work for you but it’s def not the top Durango Dakota fate is showing us.

I’ve got an oil pan sitting on a 5.9 on a motor stand you can have along with the pickup. I’ll get it off tomorrow or Tuesday and send it on. That will give me incentive to do something with that motor as it’s an original truck motor with low mileage. I’m not sure if it’s a Durango/Dakota pan...

I'd follow dano's advice and concentrate on other things first if it's a decent runner now. After fixing the oil leak, sounds like an easy fix, I'd do the rearend and springs first and drive it for a while, tuning to get it at it's best. With only 29k on it I'd leave it in the engine bay, leave...

If you leave the passenger side manifold off you’ll have more wiggle room on the drivers side If your coming in from the top. This should give you enough room to slide it in. The passenger side manifold’s way easier to install after your lined up and on the mounts. Good luck with however you...

It isn't much of a lip if there's one there.....I place the front on a piece of 2x8 and install flush to the front.

Good read here. Explains it all. http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaft_instructions_Mar20.pdf

So...A500 conversion with the upper crossmember fab reduction and the lower crossmember retrofit or US Cartool member? Has the floor been modified for clearance if needed? Assuming it’s an “A” body. Are clearances sufficient to ensure no transmission contact? New rubber transmission mount? As...

I've never had anything but good luck with felpro blue head gaskets in the half a dozen times I've had heads of. Speaking as a novice, they'd be my choice too.

This is the cam I have. Hughes Engines

If you don't degree your cam your guaranteed to not know exactly what you have and if it's correct for what you want or even what you bought matching your cam card specs or if it's installed on the line you want. It's def always a good idea.

That’s what lots of guys do. Degreeing your cam just gives you piece of mind you have what you want the way you want it.

I actually used an old hydraulic roller lifter set and retainer, then shaped my dowel to fit the lifter center on my bench grinder. You won’t be pumping up your lifter anyway. You’re only measuring cam lobe lift/duration so the length of the dowel Doesn’t really matter as long as you can set up...